“Hi there, sorry for the slow response – things have been absolutely manic.” It’s a familiar beginning to an email, and one I have been guilty of using, even when things are not manic at all. At the moment, though, things are. As well as a salvo of deadlines, events and trips, I’m planning a wedding in very little time. I’m eating – I always do – but I’m not always eating properly; and sometimes the effort to think about what “properly” means is overwhelming. And that’s without having a restaurant to run, kids or elderly parents to care for, builders to manage, books to write or a serious illness to recover from. If I’m struggling, how do chefs and food writers who are grappling with those things feed themselves? Fortunately, I know a few well enough to ask them, starting with Ravneet Gill, who with her husband, Mattie Taiano, has been building a new restaurant with their young son in tow and chronicling their journey on Substack. “Omelettes,” she says at once. “We’ve been having a lot of them – which is funny, because I hate eggs. Mattie masks them with garam masala, coriander, cumin and chopped green chillies. They’re good if you have nothing in the house.” Itamar Srulovich describes scrambled eggs on toast as the culinary equivalent of a reset button. “It’s my, ‘OK, let’s take a deep breath’ dish. They are deeply savoury, good for you emotionally and physically. They are grounding,” he concludes, and in times of stress staying grounded makes a difference. It’s why Thomasina Miers always has homemade sourdough in the freezer, so that she always has a solid, nourishing base to build a meal on, no matter what is happening in her life. “I might rub it with garlic and a little olive oil, and have it with whatever seasonal vegetable is in my fridge,” she tells me. “Or if there aren’t any vegetables – and we are talking about chaos here – then there is always bacon in the freezer, or odds and ends of cheese I can melt down for a welsh rarebit.” Yet eating “properly” doesn’t have to mean homemade – nor does it even have to mean healthy, at least not by today’s standards. “We’re probably keeping the fish and chip shop alive,” Ravneet says. “The builders have them, we smell them and we want them, too.” |