Heli-touring the vineyards of the South Okanagan

When picturing British Columbia, a desert isn’t what comes to mind. Yet here I was in the South Okanagan town of Osoyoos, B.C., and here the desert was — tumbleweeds, rattlesnakes and all. Technically a semi-arid shrubland, the Okanagan Desert is a uniquely stunning Canadian landscape. I mention something to this effect to the helicopter pilot as I take my seat beside him, the blades already spinning. “If you think it looks good from down here,” he says, pointing skywards, “wait until we get up there.”

My girlfriend Tamika and I had woken up in Spirit Ridge Resort on the shores of Osoyoos Lake to a crisp but sunny April day — and were wowed by gently sloping vineyards leading to glittering water below, the Cascade Mountains’ Okanagan Range towering behind us. Spring had arrived late this year, causing the sagebrush-lined mountains to remain snowcapped, a break from the “Wild West” feel of the place. Any brain fog left over from the previous evening’s wine tasting was quickly washed away by the cool air.

Regardless of how we approach it, life is about moments: the precious, unique and exhilarating seconds that evolve into the stories that define us. I’m having just such a moment on a dark ski hill, in formation with 200 others as we light up flares on New Year’s Eve at Sun Peaks Resort, Canada’s second-largest ski destination.

“Remember to hold your flare low, go slow, and keep your distance,” commands Nancy Greene Raine, an Olympic legend, former senator, and local pioneer. Thousands of people have gathered in the village below, bolstered by thumping dance music and festive holiday lights as kids are waving glowsticks. A skills contest has just concluded, and the mood is fittingly upbeat. Our flares explode into red flame, and we begin a torchlight ski descent in single file. Having pursued my bucket list in more than 100 countries and across every province and territory, trust me when I say this moment is as good as it gets.

A faint fragrance of cedar wafts down the corridor as you make your weary way to your hotel room. Maybe you’ve just gotten off a plane after a day of traveling; maybe you’ve had a full day exploring the sights of Vancouver. Either way, your quiet room at the DOUGLAS, a hotel within a hotel at the Parq Vancouver casino resort, offers comfortable respite from the bustling world outside.

A DIY cocktail kit awaits — Douglas fir-infused gin, botanical-infused bitters, club soda and a green and gold spruce tip wedged into a glass bottle — but so too does a king-sized bed with a plushy duvet, backed with a warmly-lit wooden headboard. I opt for the latter, just a quick shut-eye, before padding across a carpet reminiscent of tree rings to the wonderful walk-in rain shower. The window to my room steams up with a luxurious mist. With the faint tang of pine in the air, the vibe evokes the clouds snaking round the forested roots of Vancouver’s coastal mountains. It’s easy to see why the DOUGLAS made the MICHELIN Guide’s hotel selection last year.

Long before the existence of ferries and bridges (which would have made things significantly easier for traders and passengers), canoes were used to cross the St. Lawrence River every day of the year. Winter snow, ice, freezing rain and strong tides didn’t stop hardy canoers shuttling goods, mail, and even hospital patients from one shore to the other. This history is celebrated with a popular ice-canoe race at the annual Winter Carnival, drawing local sponsors, media coverage, and competitive teams from the United States and France. Crews train hard for the occasion, although strength and technique will only get you so far.

Unpredictable and treacherous winter conditions on the St. Lawrence River are the greatest adversity. Cheered by crowds, competitors push, scrape, smash, paddle and swim against the hostile elements, seemingly impervious to sharp ice and metal spikes that can splinter boat and bone. Glory and beer await the victors, extending a legacy that stretches back centuries. Founded by a former race organizer, tour operator Canot à Glace Expérience invites visitors to pick up a spiky paddle and give it a go. There will be waiver forms.