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As bad a dresser as I am, anything beats being judged by my character.
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Display at Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, Florence, 2014. (Roving-Aye!/Flickr)
Friday - January 27, 2017 Fri - 01/27/17
rantnrave:// Speculation. Lots of conversation about price setting recently. Resale sites, grassroots marketplaces, and modern luxury startups are positioned equally in the market alongside All The Names You've Come to Know™. If you want an LV Speedy, you have options from the bag's origins in the 1930s all the way up to the present—all models priced differently based on who wants it, why, and who's selling it. Access to all of these goods from a single screen has made people care less about "when" a product is from, because it's all available now. Price seems increasingly elastic... Enjoyed reading this FAST COMPANY piece on startups who are sourcing from regions in ITALY, bypassing wholesale, and offering Italian-made goods at prices sometimes 50% lower than traditional designer prices. The article rightly points out that there's a huge range of quality available from ITALY. I don't think anyone can dethrone MANOLO BLAHNIK. That's not snobbery, it's just real. These brands do fulfill an important niche in the market... Sustained interest in how stuff gets made is evident in headlines and photo editors' picks. The appearance of manufacturing floors in media may be driven by the dominance of AMAZON, environmental concerns, or anxieties about trade, but regardless, it’s here, and it’s part of the story… More fashion and technology news coming across the feed recently, and the fun thing about watching #fashtech over time is we get to see what sticks. The CEO of AMSILK talks about the company's collaboration with ADIDAS on BIOSTEEL, an engineered natural fiber... WHO WHAT WEAR is putting on a fashion show one day before NEW YORK FASHION WEEK, not as a show for buyers, press, and influencers, but as an extension of the brand. The headwinds continue to move toward fashion shows as media properties unto themselves. One could argue this has been happening ever since runway photos started showing up in magazines and newspapers, but one could also look to APPLE’s M2M as a point of difference. Any more media buys out there to think about?… KERING unveiled its plans for sustainability to the year 2025. Nice bit of long-term thinking to get you through the day. Would be nice to see how the company hedges for adverse possibilities arising from certain, ahem, political developments (cough cough, *reaches for face mask)… Was this a blip?
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
volatility + speculation
Fast Company
These Fashion Startups Offer The Prestige Of "Made In Italy" Without Inflated Prices
by Elizabeth Segran
New American shoe and bag companies are making classic Italian craftsmanship accessible to the masses via direct-to-consumer business models.
Business of Fashion
As Trump Looks Inward, Luxury Eyes Los Angeles Manufacturing
by Lauren Sherman
Can LA’s manufacturing base transcend denim and t-shirts and become a genuine hub for high-end production in Donald Trump’s protectionist America?
The New York Times
At Valentino, an Intimate Ending
by Vanessa Friedman
The spring shows closed with Pierpaolo Piccioli’s invitation into the heart of couture and botanical overload.
SSENSE
Interview with Luke Meier of OAMC
by Gloria Cardona
Designer Luke Meier discusses building the OAMC universe.
Racked
This Fragrance Startup Wants You to Use Photos and Music to Buy Perfume
by Chavie Lieber
Meet Phlur, where you can see and hear your new favorite fragrance.
WGSN
Alexandra Shulman's Vogue announcement and the current media landscape
by Carlene Thomas Bailey
The breaking news about Alexandra Shulman leaving Vogue is making waves because it says so much about the state of the current media landscape.
The New York Times
François-Henri Pinault, Kering Chief, on Why Green Is the New Black
by Elizabeth Paton
The French luxury goods group has unveiled ambitious new sustainability targets for 2025, with a focus on carbon emissions and the production of raw materials.
Business of Fashion
The Changing Faces of 'Vogue'
by Tamara Abraham
Alexandra Shulman's departure from "British Vogue" comes after new appointments at several international editions of the magazine, presenting a unique opportunity for Condé Nast to reboot the brand for today’s media reality.
Dazed Digital
Heron Preston on pollution & politics at Paris Fashion Week
by Calum Gordon
The product-of-the internet fashion designer makes his European debut.
Harvard Business Review
How Retailers Should Think About Online Versus In-Store Pricing
by Wyatt Jenkins
They each have their own logic.
futures market
Glossy
Why Nordstrom is experimenting with in-store pop-ups
by Hilary Milnes
Nordstrom's monthly Pop-In series introduces buzz-worthy brands into the department store on a regular basis, drawing in new customers and giving people a reason to visit. Run by vp of creative projects Olivia Kim, the Pop-Ins most recently returned at the beginning of January with a collaboration with Gentle Monster, a Korean eyewear brand.
Sportswear International.com
Fibers: Amsilk CEO Jens Klein about the latest fiber innovation used by Adidas
by Melanie Gropler
Recently Adidas and Amsilk presented the result of their cooperation during the Biofabricate conference in New York: a new performance shoe made from Biosteel fibers that are an imitation of natural silk. Here, Amsilk’s CEO Jens Klein reveals more details about the innovation...
i-D Magazine
the gender politics at the heart of this season's men's shows
by Kinza Shenn
If fall/winter 17 was defined by anything, it was a season that tackled traditional masculine codes and proposed a more sensuous man for the future.
Quartz
Fashion models have become the unlikely challengers of antiquated gender norms
by Jenni Avins
Fashion model Hanne Gaby Odiele is now the face of intersex advocacy.
Shift London
How sustainable is your cotton tote bag?
by Joanna Margaret Taylor
Does anyone else remember fighting yummy mummies at Sainsbury’s for a Anya Hindmarch ‘I’m not a plastic bag’? It was a losing battle, the one that spawned the beginnings of the tote bag graveyard subsisting beneath my bed, on top of my wardrobe, and under the sink. Because being ‘sustainable’ is cool right?
Fashionista
How Leah Chernikoff Went from Studying for the LSAT to Running Elle.com
by Tyler McCall
This is one full-circle "How I'm Making It." Fashionista catches up with Leah Chernikoff, the site's sixth editor and the current editorial director of Elle.com.
The Fashion Law
Inside the Battle for the Title of the Web's Most Desired Re-Sale Destination
Vestiaire Collective is slowly but steadily morphing into a giant e-commerce platform for luxury garments and accessories, according to industry analysts.
The Economist
Winners and losers in a China-America trade war
A trade war would be a catastrophe; but not for everybody.
The Straits Times
Chinese label Urban Revivo opens first international outlet in Singapore, plans massive expansion
by Melissa Heng
A popular Chinese fast-fashion label is ready to take on global competitors such as Spanish clothing retailer Zara, British brand Topshop and Swedish label H&M, and it has chosen Singapore as its first stop.. Read more at straitstimes.com.
Refinery29
Are Designers Ignoring Melania? Let's Keep Tabs
by Connie Wang
If there’s one tradition that hasn’t been uprooted in this Trump presidency, it’s the one surrounding the First Lady’s wardrobe. Most first ladies have historically laid low when it came to broadcasting strong political views, opting for subtle cues, instead.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube
"Nefisa"
Earthling
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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