I don’t think it is ever possible to do the same thing again. Obviously when you work within a house you have certain codes that emanate from the house and you have certain sensibilities that will come from the designer. This will not change. | | | | Neil Barrett A/W 2018, Milan Men's Fashion Week, Jan. 13, 2018.
(Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images) | | | | | | “I don’t think it is ever possible to do the same thing again. Obviously when you work within a house you have certain codes that emanate from the house and you have certain sensibilities that will come from the designer. This will not change.”
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| | rantnrave:// Fashion is basking in the afterglow of some breakthrough haute couture shows. And it's true, haute couture, once viewed as fusty and conservative (BRIGITTE BARDOT famously having declared the practice "for grannies"), seems to have moved more deftly with the times this season. One could argue it's the best response to cultural headwinds moving about the apparel industry: customers' desire for transparency, accountability, and trust. At VALENTINO, each dress was named for the person who made it. Is this “radical transparency” without the marketing phrase? Haute couture has the benefit of keeping arms' length from economies of scale that, in some cases, subsidize its existence. Yet it can also be viewed as a leading indicator of what fashion can be without compromise. By honoring amazing feats of the hand in textile, ornament, and thread, haute couture highlights the fundamental underpinnings of fashion—and all clothing for that matter. The question remains as to whether the values respected in haute couture—time, craft, and artistry—can be meaningfully valued in the rest of the industry. Will it hold sway over ready-to-wear? Let's hope the positive momentum from haute couture keeps going. There's an entire fashion month ahead… NIKE used computational design for its latest sneaker sole, the REACT. WIRED UK points out that computational design has undergone research by CARNEGIE MELLON since the 1960s, and that Nike released a t-shirt using computational design last year. Would love more detail on this. Perhaps there's more design parity between haute couture and sneakers than we imagine... Briefs: RANDE GERBER was a model too... LVMH posts gains... VALENTINO's "IRIS" dress. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Maybe the most powerful thing right now is a perfectly shaped shoulder line. | | |
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| The Swiss restaurateur Daniel Humm was deep into explaining the parallels between fine dining and hip-hop Thursday night when Dapper Dan walked into a private room at Humm's Eleven Madison Park. It was a dinner in honor of the celebrated outlaw luxury designer's recent, and somewhat surprising, backing from Gucci. | | |
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| Driven by low rents and a renegade cultural scene, Berlin is a magnet for creatives, but the city’s most noteworthy fashion labels still show elsewhere. | | |
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| After a succession of creative directors, the Roman tailoring house shifts again with Nina-Maria Nitsche, a clever, sly veteran of Maison Margiela. | | |
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| For his fall 2017 women's fashion show, designer Marc Jacobs sent models down a stripped-down runway at New York's Park Avenue Armory last February, wearing tracksuits topped with thick gold chains, retro-style coats and eccentric headwear, a hat tip to hip-hop's early days in the late 1970s and early '80s. | | |
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| BoF has learned that, after 17 years, the French luxury conglomerate has recently held discussions to sell its 50 percent share of the label to Ms. McCartney. | | |
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| After a racial slur makes the rounds on Instagram, history and prettiness clash with the speed of social media. | | |
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| If there's one thing that leads us in hopes to haute couture, it's surely the longing to find something to look up to. Fashion needs leadership in these chaotic times, and couture is its high ground. Put aside, for a minute, that only a minute number of women can afford it. | | |
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| There are few instances at fashion shows, where you get to clasp your hand at your breast, audibly sigh and murmur noises of satisfaction without looking like a complete lunatic. Thankfully at Valentino’s latest S/S 18 haute couture show, I wasn’t the only one. | | |
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| Focusing not on slogans, but on social significance, men in skirts have become a form of protest -- and 2018 is exactly the year for it. | | |
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| Hedi Slimane is teetering on the edge of "living legend" status in fashion, but his history as a designer is antithetical as can be to the tenure of the similarly revered and widely adored Phoebe Philo at Céline. | | |
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| Women's History Museum, the fashion-art label that's been making scrappy couture since 2014, has finally made their big New York debut. | | |
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| Every business leader knows his or her success depends on a viable and sustainable market. That's what the young Laduma Mgxokolo saw in front of him as a student working on a thesis project at Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University in his native Port Elizabeth, South Africa: a viable and sustainable market place based on a centuries-old tradition of South Africa's Xhosa people. | | |
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| In downtown Nairobi, George Kimondo runs a shop selling second-hand women's clothes, or mitumba. Since quitting his job with a security company to start his business eight years ago, George says he now earns as much as four times his previous monthly salary. He started by hawking clothes in offices and on the streets, before setting up a shop after one year. “Business is good during the holidays and at the end of the month,” he says, when he can generate as much as US$1000 per week. | | |
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| We’ve rounded up eight beauty KOLs sharing content on platforms including WeChat, Weibo, Miaopai, and Xiaohongshu (aka RED) to understand why they are so popular with Chinese beauty consumers. Counting down the most influential beauty bloggers in China, people with names like Milky, Jelly, Mint and Big Devil. | | |
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| Entrepreneurs Jeffrey Man and Davy Chan apply new dyeing and processing technology to create eco-friendly fashion for their Cosmos Studio brand; their first collection so far has just one style, but they have big plans | | |
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| In case you're not up to date with the latest fashion industry gossip, a scandal recently erupted that has shaken the world of style to its very core. At the center of this scandal we have two Russian fashion figures: blogger-turned-entrepreneur Miroslava Duma and clothing designer Ulyana Sergeenko. | | |
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| In the 18th century a new trend in women's underwear sparked public scandal: the hoop petticoat. How the world became obsessed with what was under women’s skirts. | | |
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| Caution: contains Tide Pod Nikes and bean-filled Crocs. | | |
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| Glossier has never been a brand to play by traditional rules, and its customer service team -- dubbed the gTeam -- is no exception. While many companies have long seen customer service merely as a necessary cost center, the buzzy direct-to-consumer beauty brand, founded by Emily Weiss in 2014, sees it instead as a major value-driver. | | |
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| © Copyright 2018, The REDEF Group |
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