Do not feel sorry for the teenagers who are thus manipulated by brands. Those I know are capable of striking hard bargains. Unlike their parents, they were born into a world of liquid markets and price transparency: they know precisely what to spend. | | | | | Kate Moss, 1995. (Terry O'Neill/Iconic Images/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “Do not feel sorry for the teenagers who are thus manipulated by brands. Those I know are capable of striking hard bargains. Unlike their parents, they were born into a world of liquid markets and price transparency: they know precisely what to spend.”
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| | rantnrave:// Fashion calendar flux continues. PROENZA SCHOULER will show this FEBRUARY in NEW YORK as scheduled, and will then show the following season in PARIS during couture. Ditto RODARTE. Meanwhile, NYFW Men's is aiming to bring designers back… Here’s a video on the making of a CHANEL haute couture look (video in FRENCH) with MADAME OLIVIA, the première of the atelier. Watch a woman press out individual flowers to be sewn, one by one, to a dress known as look 59. Takes a lot of time... Speaking of time, s/o to TROY PATTERSON for his piece on discovering timelessness during a watchmaking class at the HOROLOGICAL SOCIETY OF NEW YORK... New cycles, new designers: here’s a lineup of 9 labels now at DOVER STREET MARKET’s NYC location. Exciting to see EGG making its debut in the AMERICAN store. Looking forward to seeing how it will be displayed. Great to see a store with the media reach of DSMNY supporting smaller labels, including a designer with little media footprint other than this BLOGSPOT... In LONDON, the FASHION EAST fall 2017 designers have been announced, and they are: MATTY BOVAN, MIMI WADE, SUPRIYA LELE, and A SAI TA... Sometimes protecting a commodity seems to require its destruction. I'm not referring to that stunt by VIVIENNE WESTWOOD's son on the THAMES. It's the case of NIKE and (don't) do it. Some conflicting motives at work here in the case of the NIKE slashers. A concerned citizen wandering by the NYC store in SOHO found some destroyed sneakers on the curb, encased in clear plastic bags. They appeared to be new. They appeared to be functional pairs. They appeared to be each slashed, from toe to heel, with boxcutters. The apparent logic behind the situation is, you have to destroy the product in order to protect its value, but also maybe recycle it, but slash it so no one could truly "cycle" it by putting it on their feet. In our latest episode of mass retailers do the darndest things... Was the SOHO store trying to recycle these? That's the designation for clear bags in NYC. No moral here except if you're going to be like Nike and just do it, don't do it in plain sight in clear bags. Or just don't do it at all. C.R.E.A.M. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | Racked |
| In the face of a government that probably isn’t too happy about it. | | |
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 | Wired |
| Inside Beautycon, where online culture meets offline fanfest---and corporate marketing. | | |
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 | Lapham’s Quarterly |
| The American democracy and dream are the building of castles in air. Whither goeth the one so goeth the other, these days up in smoke and the spout. | | |
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 | Business of Fashion |
| Fashion leaders have stayed mostly mum on the president’s executive order blocking immigrants of seven Muslim majority countries from entering the United States, but behind closed doors discussions are taking place. | | |
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 | Co.Create |
| For the first time, the Costume Designers Guild Awards has nominated a stop-motion animated film. Meet the woman who made it happen. | | |
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 | T Magazine |
| The haute couture shows, which were presented in Paris earlier this week, represent the latest iteration of an art that was formalized in 1945 - and has had to change with the times. | | |
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 | The New York Times |
| The British creative director will leave the fashion house after six years at the helm; her replacement has not been announced. | | |
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 | Bloomberg |
| A class at the Horological Society of New York introduces the writer to a surprising new skill: how to lose track of time. | | |
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| Business of Fashion |
| The lauded American brand’s Autumn/Winter 2017 runway show will take place as scheduled on February 13 at New York Fashion Week. | | |
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 | The Fashion Law |
| Proenza Schouler and Rodarte are making headlines in connection with their respective decisions to cease showing their seasonal collections on the New York Fashion Week calendar and move to showing in Paris, instead. | | |
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 | Man Repeller |
| This is a pretty emotional story about life lessons and how to stop shopping, but shopping cleanses are the new juice cleanses. I'm just saying. | | |
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 | Madame Figaro |
| In this episode revealing the backstage crafts of couture, discover the secret workshop of a Chanel haute couture dress made with floral embroidery. | | |
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 | WWD |
| The Russian stylist’s aesthetic evolved from growing up after the collapse of the Soviet Union. | | |
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| The New York Times |
| A conversation with a major American designer, whose runway show kicks off the New York edition of men’s fashion week on Monday (Jan 30). | | |
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 | The Telegraph |
| Thirty years ago Stephen Marks was known to his old friends as “Number 15” -- a playful reference to the French Connection founder’s British ranking in the rich list. | | |
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 | Apparel |
| The election of a new president who has vowed to roll back regulations in many areas -- coupled with the majorities in the House and Senate -- has many in the apparel, retail and footwear businesses wondering what chemical regulation will look like in the new administration. | | |
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 | Vogue |
| No matter the date, clothes labeled Chloé possess a bohemian spirit, as these images from the archive show. | | |
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 | Vanity Fair |
| Why the actress who used to spend $200 a year on clothing is killing it on the red carpet. | | |
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 | Fashionista |
| The concept boutique transformed its seven-story space for its biannual "New Beginning." | | |
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| WWD |
| Steve Novenstein discusses the rising trend of fashion archives and logistical considerations. | | |
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 | YouTube |
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