Blame Amazon and its same-day deliveries. Blame McDonald’s for making two minutes too long to wait for a burger. But when modern man has an itch, he scratches it immediately. | | | | | Raf Simons Autumn/Winter 2017, look 14. (Raf Simons) | | | | | | “Blame Amazon and its same-day deliveries. Blame McDonald’s for making two minutes too long to wait for a burger. But when modern man has an itch, he scratches it immediately.”
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| | rantnrave:// RAF SIMONS’ NYC debut was an ode to the city. Most writers agree that NYC is lucky to have Raf here, and it seems that the feeling of adoration is mutual. Living in NYC inevitably means giving a part of oneself over to the city's energy—its pressure-cooker atmosphere, its ceaseless churn. With this show, Raf was giving something back. A larger sense of purpose for fashion week, for fashion in general? Watch an edited version of the show online, and don't miss the sight and sound at rafsimons.com. Criss-crossed lengths of duct tape were secured to tailored waistcoats and jackets, with textiles sourced via a partnership with WOOLMARK. The graphic lengths of tape seemed to bind the body in protection, but they also seemed to contain an outward warning. Who needs protection? Who needs to give a warning? The fragility of youth and freedom of outward expression are both things worth protecting, and I couldn't help but wonder if those criss-crossed symbols were meant to ward off influence as much as protect it. In other words, let the kids do their thing. Step off. The designer said after the show, "I think in general it’s important to behave fearlessly...Not only in a political context. But in fashion and art and architecture and writing, you should be more fearless." For more on the show, look to coverage from BOF, HIGHSNOBIETY, and FASHIONISTA. Would love to know more about that merino wool… Other things have been happening at NYFW MEN’S, mind you, and GUY TREBAY wrote a lovely recap of the last couple days of shows. He spoke to FERN MALLIS about the global scope of the fashion industry, and the importance of diversity to the industry. Mallis says, “You have no idea how many visa forms I filled out in my career”… Will the fashion industry organize and tell WASHINGTON what it needs? This piece rightly points out that lobbying dollars make up a much smaller proportion compared to pharma or tech… Do read ROBIN REPORT’s piece on ASHLEY STUART’s turnaround and JAMES RHEE's radical approach to kindness in company culture. This is the least cynical approach to retail I’ve seen in a long time, and it’s working… RICCARDO TISCI to VERSACE?… STEFAN LARSSON is out at RALPH LAUREN after 15 months as CEO. Reason? "Creative differences"... Here’s a teaser for the CRISTÓBAL BALENCIAGA exhibition at the V&A… ESQUIRE’s deplorables, from 1968… MARGE. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| At a Private Policy presentation models had “refugee” stenciled on their faces; Billy Reid revives the beats, Steve Aoki goes punk, and other designers comment on the recent executive order. | | |
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| Choice might be the biggest trend in fashion. Since Charles Frederick Worth, customers have been dictated to by designers. Now, the traditional barriers of geography, of availability, of power, have collapsed. | | |
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| "Modern divisions within the industry pose a challenge, but not an insuperable barrier, to reestablishing an effective, unified voice." Professor Susan Scafidi teaches at Fordham and is founder of the Fashion Law Institute. | | |
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| I don’t care that it doesn’t look human - I’ve always stood out. | | |
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| To say that Raf Simons is a god among New York menswear geeks would not be hyperbole. For him to deem New York worthy feels substantial, his endorsement of the city working to further legitimise its entire men’s fashion industry. | | |
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| Here's what we really thought about Raf Simons's FW17 collection and his debut at New York Fashion Week: Men's. | | |
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| "James Rhee, CEO of Ashley Stewart, put forth this visionary concept of humanizing commerce at the recent NRF Big Show. Full disclosure, I had not thought about this concept quite the way he described it. Ashley Stewart, a once failing plus-size apparel brand, was rescued from bankruptcy for the second time in 2013 by Rhee who retired from his Board seat to take the helm." | | |
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| Ralph Lauren president and chief executive officer Stefan Larsson will leave the company on May 1, with chief financial officer Jane Nielsen leading the execution of its turnaround plan in the interim. | | |
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| This ceo says destiny played a role on the path from Chinese village to U.S. apparel company. | | |
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| Troy Young, president of Hearst Magazines Digital Media, identifies seven principles for building a successful media business for the internet age. | | |
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| We chronicle some of the Japanese brand’s exquisite archival imagery, to trace its 140-year story via the allure of graphic design. | | |
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| Nordstrom’s customer service is the stuff of legend. Part of the reason shoppers are so loyal to Nordstrom is the company’s liberal return policy. It’s so great that customers often brag about the kinds of returns they can get away with at Nordstrom. | | |
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| It's a whole new way of making apparel. | | |
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| New England Historical Society |
| As the Puritans set about eking out their survival in Massachusetts in the early 1600s they naturally had to conquer the major problems they faced: managing to obtain food, fighting their enemies for land and, of course, creating a Puritan dress code. | | |
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| From Iris Law (daughter of Jude) to Evan Ross (son of Diana), why is the industry so fascinated by the children of celebrities? | | |
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| Delpozo has announced that it will open a brick-and-mortar flagship in Dubai this fall. | | |
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| A few powerhouses are leading efforts in the fashion industry to be more water smart in every part of their supply chains. The rest of the industry needs to catch up, writes Ceres’ Kirsten James. | | |
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| Slack is now widely popular across industries for the versatility it lends to internal correspondence, but it is also gaining traction as a way to engage readers...Traditional fashion publishers have so far held off, but recent integrations of the tool by younger, more modern sites hint at Slack’s untapped potential to drive engagement and build community for media. | | |
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| The tech world unilaterally favors digital, connected advancement, over true physical product innovation. That's a problem, argues Caraa Sport CEO Aaron Luo. | | |
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| It was probably John Quincy Adams | | |
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