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I kind of like don’t consider myself a designer. I wasn’t formally trained, and I’m also doing this as commentary. It’s almost a backhanded compliment to fashion, showing fashion that it doesn’t control all its rules in a way.
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Le grand saut, Vallée Duhamel, Place des Arts, 2016. (Retis/Flickr)
Wednesday - February 08, 2017 Wed - 02/08/17
rantnrave:// Maybe you're familiar with the situation wherein you type "fashion" as a search term, and a result for "Why old US technology stocks are coming back into fashion" gets returned in the results. The word "fashion" is frequently used to describe a way of doing something, often a popular one. See also, FASHIN, or the familiar FASHUNNN. What happens when fashion is its own platform for communication? Recently under fashion's banner, we've had fashion with a social mission, fashion as documentary film, fashion as political activism, and fashion as manufacturing device. Room for all, since fashion—when it's viewed as a paradigm rather than an industry—is its own force... CALVIN KLEIN unveiled its first campaign under RAF SIMONS, and both BOF and RACKED have published pieces wondering whether the aesthetic can go mass. I think the campaign taps into different elements of mass that have everything to do with media—art, denim, and gallery spaces all add to elements of pop culture. Just can't wait to see the clothes... FAWNIA SOO-HOO's interview with fashion show producer LAURIE DEJONG is a must-read. Dejong points out that with runway shows, a 10 minute-period really stretches out over a whole season, because designers rely on media from the shows to promote their lines. Is this fashion's long tail?… Serious shoutout to RACKED for giving us sustained coverage of stores dropping the IVANKA TRUMP line and its relation to #grabyourwallet. The site's STORYSTREAM feature is smart. Hypertext as it should be… In brief: the BALENCIAGA exhibition at the V&A will feature a forensic look at garments from artist NICK VEASEY. Hint: it has to do with x-rays… PAPER magazine has an interview with the individual behind KALE SALAD, putting some parameters to “ownership” of TWITTER's most famous memes… The FRENCH FASHION FEDERATION by any other name—this name actually, a shorter one... Some perceptive parents give their take on RAF SIMONS F/W 2017... "Learning," from POLYESTER ZINE.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
prêt-à-porter
The New York Times
New York Tries to Revive Garment Industry, Outside the Garment District
by Winnie Hu
After decades of decline, the city’s garment industry is getting a new manufacturing hub in Sunset Park, Brooklyn, and other help from city and fashion leaders.
New York Magazine
What Does Virgil Abloh Know?
by Carl Swanson
His haute-streetwear line Off-White has a cultish following, but the clothes aren’t the point.
Racked
This Clay Mask Is Amazon's Best-Selling Beauty Product
by Cheryl Wischhover
Aztec Secret is full of secrets.
i-D Magazine
Muslim Blogger Hoda Katebi On The Connection Between Your Closet And The Revolution
by Gabriela Herstik and Hoda Katebi
The ethical, anti-capitalist blogger behind JooJoo Azad discusses whitewashed representations, the radical work of Muslim creatives, and her hopes for the representation of Middle Eastern women.
The New York Times
Everything You Need to Know About This Fashion Season
by Vanessa Friedman
From all the change in New York to the Paris gossip grapevine, the ready-to-wear shows are going to be as topsy-turvy as everyday life.
The Fashion Law
Altuzarra is Auctioning Tickets to its F/W 2017 Show for Planned Parenthood
by TFL
Joseph Altuzarra is putting his Fall/Winter 2017 runway show to good use. The New York-based brand has announced that it is auctioning off a pair of tickets to its upcoming show during New York Fashion Week with all proceeds to be donated directly to Planned Parenthood.
Fashionista
What Fashion Week is Like for a Runway Show Producer
by Fawnia Soo Hoo
LDJ Productions CEO Laurie DeJong breaks it all down for us, from model castings to planning for that Instagram moment.
Inc.com
Why Celebrities Pay Thousands of Dollars for This Colorado Couple's Cowboy Hats
by Cameron Albert-Deitch
The husband-and-wife owners of Colorado Hats use both new technology and old-school construction methods to make high-end custom hats that draw customers from miles away.
Business of Fashion
Op Ed | 7 Multi-brand Boutiques Transforming Chinese Retail
by Meimei Ding
A new wave of fashion boutiques in far flung cities like Wuhan, Xi’an and Guiyang are creating opportunities for brands in an increasingly competitive Chinese market.
WWD
Raf Simons Blends Art, Denim in New Calvin Klein Campaign
by Lisa Lockwood
The series of eight distinct advertising images was photographed by Willy Vanderperre.
readymade
The Yale Law Journal
Amazon's Antitrust Paradox
by Lina M. Khan
Amazon is the titan of twenty-first century commerce. In addition to being a retailer, it is now a marketing platform, a delivery and logistics network, a payment service, a credit lender, an auction house, a major book publisher, a producer of television and films, a fashion designer, a hardware manufacturer, and a leading host of cloud server space.
SSENSE
Visiting Acne in New York City's SoHo
by Adam Wray
Explaining the strange appeal of Acne’s first American flagship.
Glossy
What fashion week's big changes mean for the CFDA's business
by Hilary Milnes
The fashion calendar needs to evolve or die. The Council of Fashion Designers of America, the not-for-profit trade association that purchased the rights to it from founder Ruth Finley in 2014, is tasked with keeping the bedrock to the fashion industry relevant.
Quartz
From Jackie Kennedy’s wedding dress to Studio 54: black designers' forgotten history
by Marc Bain
"I know that when I was studying fashion history for my master’s course, none of these designers were ever mentioned."
Yahoo! Style
Making the Case for a $90 Plus-Size T-Shirt
by Alexandra Mondalek
Tria by Universal Standard is the new campaign by plus-size upstart Universal Standard, designed by the model trio Candice Huffine, Katy Syme, and Georgia Pratt.
Jing Daily
Do Chinese Fashion Bloggers Have What It Takes for Luxury Brands to Succeed?
by Yiling Pan
Chinese fashion bloggers can spell opportunity for luxury brands, but assessing their usefulness means looking beyond their massive online followings.
i-D Magazine
Far-out Images Of California's Radical Hippie Culture
by Emily Manning
‘Hippie Modernism: The Struggle for Utopia,’ a new show opening this week in Berkeley, traces the legacy of the art, design, and architecture created in the turbulent 1960s.
High Snobiety
Here's What My Parents Think of Raf Simons' Fall/Winter 2017 Collection
by Stephanie Smith-Strickland
I closed the generational gap by asking my parents' opinion on one of the most highly-anticipated shows of Men's Fashion Week, Raf Simons.
Man Repeller
Copenhagen Fashion Week: Clothes, Parties, Oodles of Rye Bread
by Haley Nahman
Everything that Pandora Sykes packed into her trip to Copenhagen for Copenhagen Fashion week.
TechCrunch
Google & H&M's Ivyrevel will make you a dress customized using your personal data
by Sarah Perez
At last year’s Google I/O developer conference, Google introduced a new Awareness API that would allow for smarter applications that could understand where you were, what you were doing, what’s nearby, and even the weather, in order to more intelligently react to your current situation.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Point Of No Return"
Exposé
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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