The human need to be equitably represented by a t-shirt should not be underestimated.
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Outside Skylight Clarkson Square at NYFW. (Mike Coppola/Getty Images)
Wednesday - February 15, 2017 Wed - 02/15/17
rantnrave:// Thank you to VANESSA FRIEDMAN for writing that the fall/winter 2017 edition of NEW YORK FASHION WEEK is a turning point. Indeed. Where will it go from here? It needs to be pared down, centralized, and made to feel special again. Does it feel obligatory? Yes and no. It definitely feels diffuse. There are times when it feels more like going to an arena rock concert. Except no one paid for the tickets, and since the show lasts for about 10 minutes, the jostling and getting to and from the venue takes far more time than the show itself. For great shows, it feels worth it. For underwhelming shows, it does not. I wouldn't mind shows where all photography is banned save for the photo pit (à la MARC JACOBS this season). Or conversely, organize all-IPHONE shows with no pro photographers. But too many players makes everyone unhappy. Know your audience... CATHY HORYN's latest review is a must-read, and love her comment about designers getting too designer-y. On that note, do check out THE ROW, ECKHAUS LATTA, and MONSE / OSCAR DE LA RENTA... BRIDGET FOLEY writes that people are more concerned about how long it takes to get to the show than the ambiance of said show. There are times when media can work against the clothes, and if the business isn't about selling those then fine, plan accordingly. Some shows feel more like pure media spectacles rather than a place to show off beautifully designed clothing. They lack energy, but the runway shots look great. And that brings me back to shows like CHROMAT, GYPSY SPORT, and TELFAR, where of course the runway shots look fabulous, but the shows themselves were full of energy, and the audience seemed genuinely engaged in the experience. It was palpable... Behold, PHILLIP PLEIN, and ALYSSA VINGAN KLEIN’s interview with JEREMY MEEKS, aka "hot felon"... Interesting stuff outside the fashion week vortex: Must-read of the day is MAX LAKIN's piece on how fast sellers can get printed t-shirt merch posted and sold via online marketplaces. It's fast... Second must-read is this piece in GQ about a former model who now runs a marijuana ring... ETSY is launching ETSY STUDIO, an online marketplace... And more from fashion week: Little pots at ROSIE ASSOULIN... Meet HECTOR... "Here for that rainbowism"... Nice scroll through TELFAR from DIS.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
alt-anything
New York Magazine
Modern Fashion Shouldn't Try Too Hard
by Cathy Horyn
Polished serenity at Oscar de la Renta, the Row, Eckhaus Latta and Proenza Schouler. 
The New York Times
The Great Fashion Week Migration
by Vanessa Friedman
Philipp Plein comes to New York, Proenza Schouler says farewell, and new designers debut at Oscar de la Renta.
Racked
How 'Nevertheless, She Persisted' Went from Mitch McConnell's Lips to T-Shirts Everywhere
by Max Lakin
Thanks to sites like Redbubble and Teespring, anyone can make a political slogan wearable in just minutes.
Business of Fashion
Transgender Movement Inspires Indian Fashion
by Bandana Tewari
India’s ‘third gender’ community and transgender women are finding work and a welcome from the nation’s fashion industry.
Racked
Who Is Self-Care For?
by Lux Alptraum
Self-care has never been more necessary, or more misunderstood.
GQ
These Are the Models Who Get New York City High
by Suketu Mehta
There are a thousand ways to buy weed in NYC, but the Green Angels devised a novel strategy: They hired models to be their dealers. Suketu Mehta spent months embedded with them to see where this experiment in entrepreneurship might lead.
1 Granary
On the transformative nature of dress: Fashion in Film Festival
by 1 Granary Team and Marketa Uhlirova
"Dress is very close to the body, it is evocative and also an intensely personal thing because it connects with memories. It is a great story-telling device." - Marketa Uhlirova
SURFACE
Sterling Ruby: Stretching the Canvas
by Kevin McGarry and undefined
Sterling Ruby combines art and fashion with his close friend Raf Simons.
Reuters
Retail CEOs head to Washington to try to kill U.S. border tax - sources
by Ginger Gibson
Chief executives of some of America's largest retailers, including Target Corp (TGT.N) and Best Buy Co Inc (BBY.N), are headed to Washington this week to make their case that a controversial tax on imports would raise consumer prices and hurt their businesses, according to people familiar with the plan.
WWD
Carolina Herrera Creates Three Customized Hanboks for New York and Seoul Installations
by Rosemary Feitelberg
Herrera has created three looks, each made at the New York designers’s Seventh Avenue atelier.
toolkit
Reuters
Crackdown on fake cotton helps revive Egypt crop
by Arwa Gaballa and Eric Knecht
Egypt's most famous export, the silky soft cotton prized by makers of luxury bedding and clothing, has become so scarce as production has fallen that most supplies sold under its brand name last year were fake.
Fast Company
Why Amazon Is The World's Most Innovative Company Of 2017
by Noah Robischon
A rapid expansion of Prime plus bold bets in the physical world are allowing the retailer to offer even more, even faster and smarter.
Vestoj
A Pop Song In Clothes
by Daniel Oppenheimer
"How Tommy Hilfiger captured and lost the zeitgeist."
Glossy
Navigating Instagram during fashion week with Eva Chen
by Jessica Schiffer
Glossy connected with Eva Chen en route to the Jason Wu show on Friday (Feb 10) to learn how she makes the best use of Instagram's different features during fashion week.
Fast Company
Clothes Shopping Sucks. Reformation's High-Tech Store Reimagines It From The Ground Up
by Elizabeth Segran
No more cluttered fitting rooms and messy racks. Reformation's founder wants to make buying a dress like buying a MacBook or Tesla.
Outkick The Coverage
Nike Is For Equality: Unless You Make Its Shoes
by Clay Travis
Nike is a hypocritical corporation.
New York Magazine
Remember When Fashion Week Was Fun?
by Faran Krentcil
Supermodels danced on tables and nobody had phones to broadcast it.
i-D Magazine
Four Models On Body Pressures, Eating Disorders, And Why They're Calling Fashion Out
by Hannah Ongley
According to a new study by Sara Ziff and The Model Alliance, young girls are still resorting to dangerous weight-control practices, and even being recommended plastic surgery.
Fortune Magazine
Samsung Goes for a New Look in Virtual Reality at New York Fashion Week
by Rachel King
As far as appearances go, Samsung's slow burn might finally be heating up.
Post-Office Arts Journal
The Aesthetics Of The Alt-Right
by M. Ambedkar
For the greater part of the past year, I’ve been surveying the aesthetic sensibilities of nationalist internet hubs such as Breitbart, /pol, r/the_donald, and similarly affiliated Facebook pages. These communities constitute what journalists and theorists have come to refer to as the alt-right.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Blue Colour Worker"
Yukihiro Takahashi 高橋幸宏
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