We argued that in a world where everything is shopping – and shopping is everything – luxury is quite simply not-shopping. Luxury is about an absence of pressure to consume, an absence of pressure to sell. Luxury is really defined as an absence of pushing. It is the opposite of force-feeding geese. | | | | | Cari Modine and Blaine Trump at the Arnold Scassi show during NYFW. Bryant Park, NYC, 1994. (Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “We argued that in a world where everything is shopping – and shopping is everything – luxury is quite simply not-shopping. Luxury is about an absence of pressure to consume, an absence of pressure to sell. Luxury is really defined as an absence of pushing. It is the opposite of force-feeding geese.”
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| | rantnrave:// Sometimes people working alongside fashion, rather than directly at its center, offer up its best cultural commentary. This piece in 032C, featuring JACK SELF in conversation with architects REM KOOLHAAS, IPPOLITO PESTELLINI LAPARELLI, GIACOMO ARDESIO and GIULIO MARGHERI, is a must-read for its interpretations of how fashion influences the wider world. See Koolhaas on trends... Would love to see JEANNE GANG collab with someone for a fashion show. Can we make that happen plz/ty?… LONDON FASHION WEEK is heading into day 6. See the collections of CHRISTOPHER KANE, ERDEM, SIMONE ROCHA, FAUSTINE STEINMETZ, MARGARET HOWELL, and FASHION EAST for the best shows from LONDON so far… Don’t miss TIM BLANKS on MARY KATRANTZOU. This season, Katrantzou was inspired by FANTASIA, and Blanks mentions that several pieces of the collection were rendered from screengrabs, woven in brocade and jacquard. I was reminded that digital processes embodied in the screen have always been present in Katrantzou’s work. But instead of the engineered digital prints that made Katrantzou’s early career, this time the digital transmission of a 1940 film was ported to technologically-driven weaving processes… Speaking of concepts of vision, TIM’s TAKE offers a glimpse into J.W. ANDERSON's multivalent woman for fall 2017… I always look forward to seeing what CHRISTOPHER KANE is up to, and in addition to a standout collection, his label launched some accessories past the outer limits of earth’s atmosphere. Actual product launch. Those are part of Kane’s first see-now-buy-now collection. Presumably you won’t have to travel to space to get them… The SUPREME METRO cards have been unleashed upon NYC, and CAM WOLF journeyed through the underground tunnels of the city and managed to surface with a few of the talismanic subway passes. He witnessed frenzied queuing, generosity, open curiosity, some meanness, and some remarkable cooperation between total strangers. NYC on any given day, brought into stark relief by the common pursuit of some desirable some-thing… In brief: This video playlist shows the making of DIOR haute couture from the ateliers of OLLIER, VERMONT, SAFRANE, and PAGLIANI… The SMITHSONIAN's NMAI is hosting an exhibition on NATIVE AMERICAN fashion... OLIVIER THEYSKENS has returned... All hail KAPITAL. "HAPPY, HAPPY! HAPPY!" That's how KIRO HIRATAI wants customers and fans of the company to feel. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | 032c |
| For 032c's Winter Issue 2016, Jack Self traveled to Rotterdam and Milan to speak with OMA founder Rem Koolhaas about their collaboration with Prada. | | |
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 | Glossy |
| We caught up with Cutrone to ask her about today’s fashion industry, the onslaught of fashion bloggers and the stereotype of the flighty PR girl. | | |
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 | T Magazine |
| As Anthony Vaccarello assumes the storied mantle at the French house, the past is never far. | | |
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 | intelligence |
| The Okayama prefecture is located in the southwestern region of the main island of Honshu, Japan, within which lies the small seaside city called Kojima. Regarded today as the capital of denim production in Japan, the city of Kojima is internationally renowned for its proliferating industry of crafting, washing and the production of quality denim garments...Leading this field is the pioneering family owned and operated business — KAPITAL. | | |
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 | Racked |
| Underground bonding over the branded MetroCards. | | |
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 | 1 Granary |
| Meet the 16 young talents forging their way into the fashion industry. | | |
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 | The New York Times |
| Fashion East’s newcomers and Halpern join J.W. Anderson, Simone Rocha and Versus Versace on the runways. | | |
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 | The Washington Post |
| The burning question in New York. Marc Jacobs found an answer in vintage hip-hop - but Ralph Lauren faltered. | | |
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 | Business of Fashion |
| At the London womenswear shows, Brexit looms large over the British fashion industry. | | |
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 | The Telegraph |
| "He’s back in Paris, nearly one season into the relaunch of the eponymous brand he put on hold in 2002. His out-of-the-blue comeback show at Paris Fashion Week in September was a welcome return, not just because Theyskens has been a fixture on the fashion scene for some two decades, but because his creative language is so exclusive to him it’s entirely irreplaceable." | | |
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| Racked |
| The hottest trend at New York Fashion Week was political protest. | | |
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 | Young Post | South China Morning Post |
| When it comes to fakes, China can be considered a pioneer. From the enduringly popular fake handbags, replica Rolls Royces, and even counterfeit KFC, there is nothing China won’t duplicate. | | |
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 | Salon |
| Native American designers face uphill battle infiltrating mainstream art and fashion markets, but still make gains. | | |
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 | Vogue |
| "All season long, Vogue Runway’s editors react in real time with our reviews—180 and counting since the start of New York Fashion Week. In this series, we take a little more time to pause and reflect." | | |
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 | CNBC |
| American Giant's CEO explains to CNBC's Jon Fortt why people are better at manufacturing clothes than robots. | | |
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 | BuzzFeed |
| Even if the model featured in the magazine's latest controversial spread had been Asian, it would still have been offensive. | | |
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 | The Daily Beast |
| ‘Trans Is Beautiful’ is more than a hashtag, and more than the clothes, makeup, and glamour of celebrities like Laverne Cox. It means that transness itself is beautiful. | | |
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| The New York Times |
| Mark Hartman, a photographer and director from Brooklyn, recently spent three weeks in Japan, chasing a lifelong fascination with the country’s culture. | | |
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 | Reuters |
| Talba Goni has been trying, without luck, to secure government funds or loans to restart a textile plant in Kaduna, the former industrial heartland in northern Nigeria, that he was running until it closed almost 15 years ago. President Muhammadu Buhari hopes to revive the once-flourishing textile and leather industries in northern Nigeria to end the country’s dependence on oil exports and diversify Africa’s biggest economy. | | |
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| Glossy |
| Cheryl Cheng, a partner at venture capital firm BlueRun Ventures in San Francisco, doesn’t focus on fashion. Instead, she’s most interested in companies that are crowdsourcing real-time data and applying it to mobile. She was an early investor in transit app Waze, as well as BeautySpeaks, a community marketplace in China that serves as a place for women to give each other beauty advice. | | |
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