To wear a morning dress in the evening is to commit an outrage on society itself. | | | | | Backstage at Tata Naka Fall 2017, London, Feb. 21, 2017. (Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “To wear a morning dress in the evening is to commit an outrage on society itself.”
| - | G.R.M. Devereux, Etiquette for Women, 1902 |
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| | rantnrave:// LONDON FASHION WEEK continues. Don’t miss OSMAN AMED’s review of MARQUES ‘ ALMEIDA and his piece on LONDON's international designer showcase at SOMERSET HOUSE. Perhaps the cultural heart of fashion is being pulled elsewhere, like SEOUL, where KAM DHILLON points out that the confluence of "deliberate strategy...strong, domestic production infrastructure, and lots of heavy investment" have made way for SOUTH KOREA's success. Dominant fashion media coverage is still firmly grounded in places like NYC, LONDON, and PARIS. Influencers fly in to meet it. Will that change?… Every so often, people become fascinated with the intersection of language and fashion. It's a welcome change of pace in an industry that moves fast, leaving little time for self-reflection. VESTOJ published a piece on fashion journalists' use of language. In AYA NÖEL's view, language shapes the limits of our imagination and can be detrimental to enabling sustainable practices in fashion. Great food for thought. An oft-cited work on language and fashion is ROLAND BARTHES’ THE FASHION SYSTEM. We won’t go into Barthes’ move from structural linguistics to post-structuralism here (fine), but if you’re interested, check out the LANGUAGE OF FASHION and ANDY STAFFORD's excellent analysis... Slogans were a big part of fashion week in NYC. MARC BAIN, CHRISTINA BINKLEY, and LEAH FINNEGAN all wrote about it. Seeing printed words on t-shirts can be fast, impactful—in some ways similar to tweets. How different are these things if the desired purpose is to be seen fleetingly by strangers, with little context? Overlaying sentiments on the body has been one of the most powerful expressions of solidarity, from ACT UP t-shirts to wearing red ribbons 'round the neck, à la guillotine. Can we connect the resurgence of slogan merch to a "lazy reincarnation of postmodernism,” as JACK SELF wrote? Partly. I’m still connecting with ELIZA BROOKE’s take from a few days ago: it's "more powerful than doing nothing”… MACYS. SEARS. JCPENNEY. How will these retailers fare? Will they turn around or be relegated to department store history?… In (print) magazine news, CARINE ROITFELD spoke to BOF about expansion plans for CR FASHION BOOK. VIEWPOINT COLOUR magazine will look at the influence of color in design. MASTERMIND magazine’s MARIE AMELIE SAUVE is searching for slow time by publishing a hardcover volume, bi-annually. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | Business of Fashion |
| BoF spotlights the countries making the biggest mark at London’s sixth annual International Fashion Showcase. | | |
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 | Tank Magazine |
| When Ashish Gupta took a bow at the end of his London Fashion Week spring/summer 2017 show, he did so wearing a T-shirt with the word “Immigrant” printed on it. The collection itself was a kitsch and colourful celebration of the marriage of Anglo and Indian cultures, inspired by 1966 Hindi-language filmAmrapali. It was also an emotional and positive response to the negativity Gupta felt around the endless Brexit discussions about immigration. | | |
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 | Hypebeast |
| Spanto of Born x Raised, Mister Cartoon, and Willy Chavarria relay personal insights. | | |
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| Business of Fashion |
| Five months after her split from Stephen Gan's Fashion Media Group and three months after inking a deeper partnership with Hearst, Carine Roitfeld tells BoF about her plans for CR Fashion Book and beyond. | | |
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 | The New York Times |
| Peter Dubens, co-founder of Oakley Capital, has financed both Alexa Chung and Bella Freud. | | |
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 | High Snobiety |
| Let’s take a deeper look at Korea’s thriving fashion community and answer one critical question: why are Korean designers killing it right now? | | |
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 | Racked |
| I can’t always translate myself into language or motion, but I can translate myself into clothes. | | |
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 | Fortune Magazine |
| These retail giants need to break their old, bad habits and reinvent themselves-or face extinction. | | |
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 | BBC |
| From Victorian London to Soviet-era Moscow, department stores have changed the way we shop and influenced culture around the world, writes Jonathan Glancey. | | |
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 | Undark |
| Leather processing is big business in Bangladesh, India, and other parts of the developing world, where regulations are lax and poisons run freely. | | |
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 | The Washington Post |
| On Inauguration Day, power shifts smoothly, graciously and calmly. In the bracing January air, under a noon sky, democracy works. Those who once governed -- whether with aplomb or great awkwardness, vigor or lethargy -- step aside to let others have their day. | | |
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 | Vestoj |
| What journalism has been getting wrong about sustainable fashion. | | |
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 | The Outline |
| The future of feminism is futile. | | |
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 | Quartz |
| Before the industry pats itself on the back, it still has genuine problems of its own to solve. | | |
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| The New York Times |
| Christopher Bailey at Burberry reflects Henry Moore’s sculptural silhouettes, while Christopher Kane gets dirty and Mary Katrantzou goes Disney. | | |
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 | i-D Magazine |
| Ahead of the two openings this year, we caught up with Pierre Bergé and the architects responsible to talk about preserving the legacy of one of fashion’s greatest designers. | | |
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 | Glossy |
| In its latest partnership, the LCF’s Fashion Innovation Agency teamed up with designer Sabinna and the virtual fitting room application Pictofit to create an augmented reality presentation during London Fashion Week. | | |
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 | Forbes |
| A recent decision by a European clothing manufacturer to source its wool supply in Italy, rather than China, is a sign of changing times, but the implications of this wider trend for China are pretty stark. It represents a granular detail of wider changes in China's economy. And it's bad news. | | |
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 | WWD |
| The French brand is touting a new handbag model, its first new fragrance pillar in 15 years, along with campaigns about the founder. | | |
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 | Fashionista |
| Olivia Kim has launched The Lab, a program to nurture brands who might not otherwise be commercially ready to work with a department store. | | |
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 | YouTube |
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