It would be far easier to say that I worked as a brain surgeon than go on to explain what a textile designer is...It wasn’t until I landed a job at Nissan as a Colour, Materials and Finish Designer (CMF) I was questioning the differences between textiles and materials, and was there in fact a difference? | | | | Anti-bra protest outside a San Francisco department store, August 1, 1969.
(Bettmann/Bettmann/Getty Images) | | | | | | “It would be far easier to say that I worked as a brain surgeon than go on to explain what a textile designer is...It wasn’t until I landed a job at Nissan as a Colour, Materials and Finish Designer (CMF) I was questioning the differences between textiles and materials, and was there in fact a difference?”
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| | rantnrave:// Fashion showed up for International Women's Day. LILIAN MIN wrote a must-read feature for RACKED that gives a nuanced account of immigrant women navigating American beauty standards. She's also a bit of an OG when it comes to K-beauty, shopping MISSHA and LANEIGE before they were widely available in the US... EMILY SEGAL, of NYC collective K-HOLE, wrote about CAT MARNELL's memoir and makes the case for Marnell as a new feminist figure. Some refreshing and original thinking here. Cheers, Emily... How many women hold top creative positions in fashion? THE FASHION LAW published this analysis of how women are represented as creative directors at top luxury houses. Do we connect this to the statistic that "women only make up 25% of board-level positions in publicly traded fashion and luxury goods companies"? OSMAN AHMED spoke to women that hold some of these top positions—MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI, TORY BURCH, JULIE DE LIBRAN–in this piece for BOF... WWD published a long list of how companies celebrated women for #InternationalWomensDay, and W magazine brought together fashion insiders for this video... Huge shoutout to SEETAL SOLANKI for writing about the gendered associations of the word "textile." Solanki's draws on her personal experience as a textile designer, and she offers the idea that shifting from "textiles" to "materials" can help open the field to people of all gender IDs. She also questions whether or not "materials" actually points more toward material science and engineering, and thus a more male-dominated sphere. Food for thought... If people can bring this much focus to women's issues without it being a holiday, we're in good shape as a culture. It's a process... Shoutout to the NEW YORKER for tweeting JUDITH THURMAN's fantastic 2005 profile of REI KAWAKUBO, "The Misfit"... In brief: Luxury modest fashion website THE MODIST made its debut to coincide with International Women's Day... The INSTA account fake_education posted videos from inside a production facility making fake YEEZY 350 V2 ZEBRAs... The "Designing Planes and Seams" exhibition, co-curated by HAROLD KODA and KEN SMITH, looks at the parallels between landscape design and fashion. Go see it... RIP ENRICO ISAIA. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| On what is carried over, and what is left behind, when moving to a new country with a new set of expectations. | | |
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| New York/Berlin artist, brand-consultant, and cofounder of the trend forecasting group K-HOLE, Emily Segal gives her take on the new memoir by the ex-Condé Nast, ex-XoJane, New York beauty-blogger Cat Marnell, finding, in this TMI-account of post-millennial (post-digital, post-Gawker) media culture, a new proposition as to who and what we might take to be feminist now. | | |
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| A clothing line that values functionality above all. | | |
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| The woman as sex toy is over; the warrior has returned. Louis Vuitton broke barriers and Miu Miu redefined comfort glamour in a fitting end to the ready-to-wear season. | | |
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| In the midst of major gender-related progression in the political landscape in the U.S. in particular, it seems an apt time to reflect on the state of the gender power structure in the fashion industry. In a 250 billion euros market, 85% of personal luxury goods consumers are women, according to a 2015 Bain report. This figure is wildly disproportionate to the statistics that support the supply side of the equation, where the industry’s most highly-ranking positions are male-dominated. | | |
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| From creating men’s haute couture to becoming the next Martin Margiela, the students of Parsons’s fashion MFA class of 2017 have big dreams, and the talent to realize them. | | |
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| The message from Paris: It's time to look polished again, and show a little effort. | | |
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| Once a drone in Kanye West's Yeezy operation, Heron Preston, encouraged by Virgil Abloh, is giving streetwear an eco-conscious spin with his own acclaimed label. | | |
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| Seetal Solanki is founder of material research consultancy Ma-tt-er, where she works on design projects of all kinds, bringing expertise in materials, where she aims to “bridge the gap between all industries”. Here Seetal talks about the terminology used and the gender-biased associations different words have in her field, and how a refreshed approach could provide more opportunities for everyone. | | |
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| The leaked financials answer our biggest question about Rapha: Why exactly are their margins -- £1.1M ($1.4M) on £48.8M ($62.1M) revenues for 2016 -- so small? | | |
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| Women are, by far, the primary consumers of fashion, but remain underrepresented in top creative positions. On International Women’s Day, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Tory Burch, Julie de Libran and more weigh in. | | |
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| Now celebrated worldwide during the month of March, the observance originated in New York City in 1909 as “Women’s Day,” on February 28 to mark the anniversary of the city’s garment industry strike led by the International Ladies' Garment Workers’ Union one year prior. | | |
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| During Paris Fashion Week, unsanctioned archival sales of Maison Martin Margiela and Commes des Garçons occupied minds and emptied wallets. | | |
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| Adidas had a great 2016, and it's looking to continue that success by copying fast fashion. | | |
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| A store that sells only made-in-America products. | | |
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| After seven years, the sisters behind the NY-based label continue to thrive. | | |
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| The Outnet‘s EVP of sales, marketing, and creative, Andres Sosa has been at the brand for almost four years. He joined as the director of sales and marketing in 2013 and was named co-president in November of 2015. He’s the man behind The Outnet’s growing global business and SoCal sisters Sara and Erin Foster’s hilarious NYFW takeover with The Outnet and The Daily for the #PrettyInfluential series. | | |
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| The designer dishes on the brand's new candy installation, the shopping experience, and those pink pussy hats. | | |
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| China, the world’s largest textile producer, is tackling the industry’s pollution problem with a new facility. | | |
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| 1851| Seneca Falls, NY: Amelia Bloomer throws off a burden. | | |
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