She always investigates the deeper role that fashion has in culture and society. I feel Vanessa’s work has been helping fashion in many ways, but mostly she has been constructively building a reputation for the fashion industry that’s definitely deserved.
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À bientôt, Paris. (Luc Mercelis)
Thursday - March 10, 2016 Thu - 03/10/16
 
 
rantnrave:// Strange season in PARIS. Two stalwart houses without creative leadership, another with a potential huge shake-up looming, and the conversation dominated by one dude from GEORGIA we had barely heard of this time last year. ANGELO FLACCAVENTO surveys the scene for BUSINESS OF FASHION. Says FLACCAVENTO: "Designers seem more interested in delivering the irresistible ‘it’ product which sends you impulsively to the shop than building true narrative around their brands." Maybe so, but surely the two aren't mutually exclusive... "It’s really ugly, with bad architecture. But, in a way, when I go there, it feels quite fresh." That's DEMNA GVASALIA talking about his new neighborhood, but hinting at the appeal of his label VETEMENTS at the same time... Important detail from GVASALIA's chat with the NEW YORK TIMES: VETEMENTS is producing a capsule collection of basics that will be available year-round, just like HEDI SLIMANE did with SAINT LAURENT's Permanent Collection. Watch for more labels to pick up on this... Catch up on PARIS FASHION WEEK coverage with the latest REDEF FashionSET: Paris Fashion Week Fall 2016... Can anyone spot me for $15,000 for PRINCE's "elaborate red tunic"? Also up for auction: one of his VERSACE tops, a silk shirt with a cufflink that reads 'sexy', and, naturally, a pair of rhinestone-studded handcuffs... Turns out man's best friend is also a great accessory -- ask CATHY HORYN, whose furry companion made her a model subject for street style photographers, or KIM JONES, who apparently brought a puppy to SUPREME's PARIS store opening. That new shop looks lovely, by the way.
- Adam Wray, curator
hoodie
WWD
A Conversation With John Galliano
by Bridget Foley
High-low, haute-street, minimal-opulent -- the sartorial extremes that have become ingrained in fashion's parlance. John Galliano has experienced extremes on a far deeper level, the object at different points in his career of raptured celebration and stunned censure.
Business of Fashion
Does Reshoring Fashion Manufacturing Make Sense?
by Kate Abnett
Reshoring -- bringing manufacturing back to Europe and the US -- can help fashion businesses build their brands and improve agility. But is it worth it?
SURFACE
Vanessa Friedman's Voice of Reason
by Tony Perrottet
"The New York Times'" chief fashion critic reflects on an industry in continual flux.
W Magazine
Demna Gvasalia Is Making Clothes That Are Meant To Be Worn
by Alexander Fury
The fashion designer explains his creative process - and reflects on his new role at Balenciaga.
Vogue
Catching Up With Isaac Mizrahi Ahead of His First Major Museum Show
by Kristin Anderson
Asked how he's faring on the eve of the opening of the first major museum exhibit devoted to his career, Isaac Mizrahi doesn't pull any punches: "I'm very emotional, darling. I can't stop breaking down into tears every five minutes."
REDEF
REDEF FashionSET: Paris Fashion Week Fall 2016
by FashionREDEF
>From features, to interviews, to profiles, to show imagery, coverage of Paris Fashion Week Fall 2016.
The Evening Standard
Patrick Grant talks classic clothes, capitalism & Kickstarter campains
by Richard Godwin
Patrick Grant is working 100-hour weeks to revive Britain’s textile communities.
Luxury Daily
Making a case for the subscription model in luxury
by Frederick Felman
The digital world offers consumers a host of benefits -- a world of offerings that now include the services of a personal stylist, access to an unlimited amount of entertainment content and exclusive jewelry, amongst other delights.
1 Granary
Angel Chen: How to get into Forbes 30 under 30, two years after leaving fashion college
by Jake Pummintr
The Central Saint Martins graduate on the power of saying yes.
Fashionista
How the Most Show-Stopping Concert Tour Outfits Get Made
by Fawnia Soo Hoo
Yes, sometimes Kanye West submits his own costume sketches.
crewneck
Fortune Magazine
'Here's What Happened When I Sold 100,000 Fanny Packs to Donald Trump'
by Stephen Gandel
It was the biggest deal of Reno Rollé’s career at the time.
The New York Times
Two Shows, Four Eventful Days for Balenciaga's Hot New Designer
by Matthew Schneier
PARIS -- If the appointment of Demna Gvasalia, 34, the upstart designer of Vetements, as artistic director of Balenciaga was the surprise of the last Paris fashion season, it has been the toast of this most recent one. His debut collection for the landmark French label was met with raves from nearly every corner.
Retail Dive
Study: Women's apparel tariffs as much as six times higher than men's
by Daphne Howland
The so-called “pink tax” describes how prices on women’s apparel are often much higher than on menswear, even for comparable items. While brands are often criticized for charging women more for anything from high-fashion to more middle-of-the-road apparel, many have scratched their heads as to why.
Quartz
Zara is an unstoppable sales machine
by Marc Bain
Inditex, the owner of Zara that vies with H&M as the world's top clothing company, is only getting bigger. The Spanish company logged its highest sales growth of the past few years, helped by an uptick in consumer spending in Spain, with 2015 sales climbing 15.4% to €20.9 billion ($22.9 billion).
Bloomberg
How Conservative Fashions Made a Turkish Shepherd a Billionaire
by Devon Pendleton and Isobel Finkel
LC Waikiki is bringing fashions that appeal to both the secular and the observant to countries across the Middle East, Africa, and Asia.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube. Scored yesterday's Louis Vuitton show.
"Street Hassle"
Lou Reed
 
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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