It’s not that activists have been ignoring fashion; it’s just that they’ve been pressuring brands on other more visible issues, such as chemicals and dyes that turn rivers in China the trendy color of the season.
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Jil Sander in front of her shop in Hamburg, 1968.
(Ullstein Bild/Getty Images)
Thursday - March 16, 2017 Thu - 03/16/17
rantnrave:// RODOLFO PAGLIALUNGA has officially exited JIL SANDER. Enough churn in creative directors lately. We need a real-time infographic to keep up. Is the financial pressure too much to claw back from? Too much short-term thinking? Bad hiring? What about embracing the revolving door? ANDREW ROSEN's recent experiment with HELMUT LANG is putting in place project-based or seasonal collaborators instead of "permanent" hires. Gig economy goes everywhere. TIGRAN AVETISYAN's womenswear is designed by his friend PAVEL AN, and An's not positioned as creative director. He just designs it... Always appreciate GARY WASSNER's take... Merchant moves. Here we go: more speculation and analysis on a potential NEIMAN MARCUS sale to HUDSON'S BAY. Would that acquisition really mean a SAKS-NM merger? One department store to rule them all, or eliminate junk bond debt... Loved this piece on U.A.L, luxury liquidators... According to sources, MODCLOTH will be bought by JET.COM (by proxy, WALMART), and there are some unhappy customers already trading alternatives in the JEZEBEL comments section... ZARA reported some stellar sales. Here's shareholders' and ORTEGA's INDITEX payout. BLOOMBERG reminds us not to forget about gross margins, apparently squeezed at Zara due to currency movements... Don't miss this fantastic read in RACKED on the lack of objective measure for how fashion is destroying the environment. We just know it's bad... How are brands doing on INSTAGRAM? ALYSSA VINGAN KLEIN looked at some recent strategies. If you're looking for influencers on the rise, take a look at THE GRAMLIST. Micro-influencers are making an impact.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
freesia
Racked
We Have No Idea How Bad Fashion Actually Is for the Environment
by Alden Wicker
It's definitely bad, but just how bad? No one knows.
The New York Times
Is This the Best-Kept Secret in Fashion?
by Steven Kurutz
The off-price retailer U.A.L. is largely unknown outside the South, yet it is a regular pilgrimage site for fashion insiders looking for high-end designer wear at dizzying markdowns.
Smithsonian Magazine
When Hollywood Glamour Was Sold at the Local Department Store
by Celia Reyer
During the 1930s, the world’s most fashionable looks came not from Paris, but from La-La Land.
Paper
Simon Porte Jacquemus On His Namesake Label and the Importance of Spontaneity
by Christopher Barnard
Simon Porte JacquemusAt 19, when most of his peers were still deciding on a college major, Provence-born Simon Porte Jacquemus was already staging guerrilla-style fashion shows around Paris and knocking on retailers' doors. Two years after Jacquemus showed his first collection in 2009, Rei Kawakubo spotted his clothes at a Tokyo showroom, and fashion history was made. 
The Fashion Law
Mayhoola: A Major Luxury Conglomerate in the Making
by TFL
Mayhoola for Investments is a group backed by Sheikh Tamim, al-Missned, the monarch and head of state of Qatar. While the Qatari company, which is focused on “local and global investments,” may be an unknown name to many, it is, according to Luca Solca, head of luxury goods at analyst firm Exane BNP Paribas, “becoming a force to be reckoned with.”
Ivy Style
A League Of His Own: The Andover Shop’s Charlie Davidson
by Christian Chensvold and The Rake
A League Of His Own: His aloof demeanor may not be that of a man locked in the groove, but Charlie Davidson has spent seven decades making Ivy Leaguers and his very own jazz heroes “hip to my kinda clothes.”
Dazed Digital
Taking the spirit of Buffalo to the streets of Paris
by Ted Stansfield, Jamie Morgan and Ib Kamara
Jamie Morgan and Ib Kamara pay homage to Barry Kamen in a shoot featuring Paris’s African club kids - here they discuss this story, Barry’s legacy and Buffalo’s future.
The New York Times
What I Saw at Fashion Week in Paris
by Vanessa Friedman, Alicia DeSantis, Joanna Knikas...
Vanessa Friedman’s week at the Paris fashion shows.
Glossy
Why designer Rebecca Taylor is creating a Netflix for fashion
by Shareen Pathak and Rebecca Taylor
Rebecca Taylor likes to compare fashion with Netflix. The veteran fashion designer, who started her own line in the ’90s and has since made a name for herself with her own brand of feminine, modern aesthetics, thinks that the very way fashion works has changed, and it bears more resemblance to how people watch TV than anything else. 
ELLE
Fashion Designers On Why the Industry Should Stand Up for Immigrants
by Kristina Rodulfo
"I think it's important for us to realize it is no longer okay to just treat fashion as, 'oh it's an escape!'"
junk bonds
Bloomberg
Zara Falls to Earth
by Andrea Felsted
A fashion superstar's margins are squeezed.
The Guardian
Zara founder to receive £1.1bn payout after record sales
by Angela Monaghan
Amancio Ortega, Europe’s wealthiest person, has earned more than £5bn since 2010 and has a net worth of £58bn.
Retail Dive
How E.L.F. Cosmetics builds community and drives results with micro-influencers
by Chantal Tode
An in-person event fostered relationships among 50 of the beauty brand's best social media fans while supporting its goals around reach, authenticity and branding.
The Business of Fashion
At the Gym, Selfie-Ready Makeup
by Helena Pike
Beauty brands are targeting the emerging opportunity in 'active cosmetics,' which promise to keep consumers looking good while they workout.
1 Granary
Words of wisdom from Tigran Avetisyan
by April Kosky
"Be stupid, be naïve, be fearless, brainless."
Quartz
No one is more excited for Canada Goose's IPO than its longtime critic PETA
by Marc Bain
"PETA plans to be first in line," the group said of the much-anticipated IPO.
Racked
The Forever 21 Hoodie I Love to Hate
by Saba Imtiaz
Hoodies are the worst, so why can’t I let this one go?
T Magazine
In Praise of an Aggressively Unfashionable Shoe
by Alice Gregory
Comfortable and supportive, Dansko clogs are -- for some -- a way of life.
Fashionista
How Karla Welch Went from Being a Sommelier to Hollywood's Top Celebrity Stylist
by Tyler McCall
"The Hollywood Reporter"'s most powerful stylist of 2017 tells us how she got there.
The Verge
The Apple Watch is still the best designed smartwatch
by Vlad Savov
"I was reminded, as I watched a live stream of Tag Heuer’s shouty boss build hype for his company’s second Android Wear watch, just how difficult it is to make a good smartwatch. As users, we expect all the thinness, lightness, and versatility that we’re used to from smartphones, but married to the always-on time display and two-day battery life of a mechanical watch."
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"High and Low"
Cassegrain & Tin Man
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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