Men have always confused length with quality.
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Plus-size model Tess Holliday. (Tess Holliday)
Thursday - March 31, 2016 Thu - 03/31/16
 
 
rantnrave:// Love when a fashion-focused piece busts out of the industry bubble and captures the interest of a larger audience. Hate that the latest one is a bloated tantrum from some dude named JACQUES HYZAGI that's not so much about the fashion industry as it is his personal beefs and his desire for you to know that he maybe once dated a model. I’d rather not to link to it, because I don’t think you should read it, but in case you missed it, here’s the gist: HYZAGI secured a rare interview with COMME DES GARCONS’ REI KAWAKUBO and convinced ELLE MAGAZINE to fly him to PARIS to conduct it. He then spends several thousand words grousing about being mistreated by his editors and alleging that KAWAKUBO’s husband and CDG/DOVER STREET MARKET President ADRIAN JOFFE heavily doctored the piece ELLE ultimately published. His story is rambling and discursive, petulant and self-aggrandizing with a dash of homophobia and misogyny. It’s unremarkable, too -- every freelance writer has dealt with a nightmare editor. The only item of interest is the assertion that ADRIAN JOFFE demanded rewrites, which is, one, not all that surprising, and, two, mentioned only as an aside. It's a bad piece of writing by every metric. Every metric except, of course, the one that matters to the OBSERVER: clicks. The story generated all sorts of buzz. It sat atop OBSERVER's “Top Stories” sidebar for most of yesterday, and will likely still be there by the time you read this. It had my TWITTER timeline chirping all day, and that’s a shame, because there were a number of other thoughtful, substantial fashion stories published yesterday, like CARLY LEWIS’ look at how plus-size bloggers, models, and designers are shifting beauty standards, SARAH HALZACK explaining why upscale beauty brands are thriving in a tough retail climate, and MARISA MELTZER’s reflections on the weirdly resilient UGG boot. I get why people found the HYZAGI's story captivating -- when a grown man has a public meltdown, it’s hard to look away -- but let’s act like we’ve been here before and take it for what it is: just another man having a hissy fit online. Shame on the OBSERVER for publishing this mess... Speaking of men behaving badly, PIERRE BERGÉ, former business partner of YVES SAINT LAURENT, went on EUROPE 1 RADIO to accuse Western designers making modest garments for MUSLIM customers of "taking part in the enslavement of women." ISLAM, of course, is not a monolith, and many MUSLIM women wear the hijab and abaya of their own volition... Psst: today's the last day of MARCH, which means it's the last day of HEDI SLIMANE's contract with SAINT LAURENT. Big fashion news day in our immediate future.
- Adam Wray, curator
yawn
The Fader
How Plus-Size Women Are Constructing A New Normal
by Carly Lewis
I've transitioned through a variety of body types in my life, so size-as a construct, not necessarily a specific number-is something I think about a lot. I've always been curious about how it might feel to be unaware of my body in the way I imagine forever-thin people get to be.
The Guardian
Ugg: the look that refused to die
by Marisa Meltzer
How an ostentatiously ugly Australian boot defied fashion’s laws of gravity.
The Washington Post
Women are scrimping on clothes, but splurging on beauty products
by Sarah Halzack
It's been a bleak time in many corners of the American mall: Apparel executives have lamented that women are bored of skinny jeans . Gadget retailers are feeling the sting of the lack of a new, must-have smartphone. And even at the food court, some mainstays are struggling to stay relevant as we opt for healthier diets.
It's Nice That
How a print mag's front page retains its power in a digital age
by Colin Crummy
While it's clear print is here to stay a little longer, the debate has recently shifted towards how we ensure it does by innovating approaches to magazine-making.
High Snobiety
Aaron Levine Explains How He Plans to Usher in a New Era of Abercrombie
by Stephanie Smith-Strickland
For those of us who suffered the toils of adolescence in the '90s, Abercrombie likely brings to mind the era of former CEO Mike Jeffries. It was a time when the overwhelming scent of teen spirit (or was it cologne?) hung mawkishly in every store.
Vice
How a Trans Woman Found Refuge in Pakistan's Progressive Fashion World
by Hailey Gates
Our new show STATES OF UNDRESS-airing March 30 on VICELAND - is not your typical dive into the high-fashion worlds of Paris, Milan, London, and New York. This travel and fashion series follows the host, Hailey Gates, as she explores the different and unexpected fashion scenes around the world.
MTV News
The Heron Preston Filter: A Conversation With Every Hypebeast’s Favorite Bootleg Designer
by Gaby Wilson
Whether or not you know who Heron Preston is, his influence is likely all over your wardrobe. He's a hypebeast icon, known for his work with Virgil Abloh and Matthew Williams on Been Trill, or for his Givenchy and Nascar bootlegs, or as part of Kanye West's creative bullpen.
Retail Dive
Behind Amazon's bet on private label fashion
by Lara Ewen
Amazon Fashion may not be cool yet, but the company is betting that millennials will be more concerned with looks and price than labels and logos. Amazon is coming for your millennials, and it's bringing inexpensive clothes and free shipping.
Business of Fashion
Data Alone Can't Decode the Fashion Consumer
by Tracy Sun
Data-driven algorithms alone can't unravel fashion consumers’ buying behaviour -- but neither can humans, argues Tracy Sun of Poshmark.
New York Magazine
Lululemon Is Coming for the Rest of Your Closet
by Susan Rinkunas
Activewear brand Lululemon may offer nondescript black tights in a dizzying array of lengths and sensations, but they’re more famous for their less-subtle pieces: cutaway tanks, strappy bras, and candy-striped or blindingly patterned statement leggings.
sigh
The Globe and Mail
If you want to better know the history of women, get to know their buttons
by Nathalie Atkinson
At an antique stall in New York state I became occupied by an array of domed glass buttons. Each oversized button, backed with brass bezel and shank, was adorned with a quirky illustration or landscape, and I was curious about what they were used for.
FashionUnited
Fashion's Unsung Designers: Walter Albini
by Jackie Mallon
Sometimes shocking, often game-changing, always visionary, certain designers become the name on everyone's lips for a millisecond. Then they're gone, no longer part of contemporary conversation, and barely even a footnote in the fashion history tomes that threaten the slender legs of the chicest coffee tables.
Forbes
Sephora Launches Chatbot On Messaging App Kik
by Rachel Arthur
Conversational commerce is the name of the game for Sephora with its new chatbot on teen messaging app Kik, which is serving up relevant content to beauty fans including how-to videos and product reviews in a bid to drive new conversions.
Quartz
As yoga rises in China, so does Lululemon
by Marc Bain
For a few years now, yoga-pants peddler Lululemon has had its eye on a big expansion into Asia and Europe. As it began opening stores, the spending put pressure on the company's margins, which were also squeezed by growing competition in the athleisure market, as well as some product and PR mistakes: See the see-through yoga pants debacle.
Digiday
How 'Harper's Bazaar' gets its readers to shop
by Hilary Milnes
Harper's Bazaar is confident that its editorial content will inspire its readers to go shopping, so it is beefing up ShopBazaar.com, the online e-commerce store that weds the fashion magazine's editorial coverage with a full commerce platform.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube.
"Shut Up"
Trick Daddy
 
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