If there has been creative decline since I started out over a decade ago, I don't think it's specific to London or the gentrification of this city. Now there is probably going to be more going on than there was ten years ago. Perhaps just more underground and less on our runways.
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Runway. Louis Vuitton Cruise 2018, Kōka, Japan. May 14, 2017.
(Jean Chung/Getty Images)
Monday - May 15, 2017 Mon - 05/15/17
rantnrave:// This year's resort collections have been strong, in some cases stronger than fall 2017. Designers continue to embrace locale-as-theme, incorporating their own interpretations of house legacy for fashion's biggest names. MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI's collection for DIOR was a beautiful synthesis of earthen, desert themes, inspired by GEORGIA O'KEEFE, the cave paintings at LASCAUX, shamanism, Dior's own visit to CALIFORNIA in 1947, and more. There was a primal, elemental feel to the collection, and it would have been wilder if not contained by the precise silhouettes for which Chiuri is well-known. A meditative take on the desert... NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE's collection for LOUIS VUITTON was a kaleidoscopic vision of Japanese culture, seen through the crosscurrents of time. Ancient, retro, and modern references to Japan collide, and once again, the textiles deserve further examination. Do yourself a favor and watch the runway video to see the clothes in motion, along with some stunning aerial views of the MIHO MUSEUM. Static images don't do the clothes justice here. Fashion legend KANSAI YAMAMOTO (yes, he designed this BOWIE look) contributed some motifs to the collection. You can see Yamamoto clearly enjoying himself in the front row, wearing a bright red suit. Both cruise collections were set in nature preserves: Dior, in the Upper Virgenes desert canyon and LV in the Miho Museum, surrounded by the forested hills of the Shigaraki Mountains. In an age where so much seems accessible, at least from a screen, these locales—preserved by law—are the ultimate rarity. They make a great livestream. They also sit well with the economic vogue in consumer spending: travel and hospitality. If one had to distill "cruise" collections down to their basic elements, it'd be clothes, clients (flown in), marketing budgets, and media prowess... Another spectacle of fashion and the environment came together at THE COPENHAGEN FASHION SUMMIT, and this piece in BOF is a great rundown of the issues... The V&A exhibition BALENCIAGA: SHAPING FASHION is set to open soon... AMY ARBUS, daughter of DIANE ARBUS, took the streets of NYC in search of headwear. The results are as diverse as there are different walks of life. Street style can still captivate.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
ma (間)
The Washington Post
Beyoncé loves his work. So does Melania. Meet the Gucci designer trying to bridge many divides.
by Robin Givhan
“Beauty has no boundaries, no rules,” says Alessandro Michele, a designer devoted to diversity.
WWD
Louis Vuitton Hosts Cruise 2018 Show in Kyoto, Japan
by Joelle Diderich
Nicolas Ghesquière’s spectacular display at the Miho Museum paid homage to Japanese tradition and a local fashion hero: Kansaï Yamamoto.
The New York Times
Dior in the Desert
by Vanessa Friedman
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s cruise collection, shown in the mountains outside Los Angeles, was a fantasy of a feminist Wild West.
Racked
The Latest Beauty Trend Is Not Buying More Makeup
by Margaret Eby
Why these beauty gurus are encouraging fans to buy less.
The Business of Fashion
At Copenhagen Summit, Turning Sustainability Commitments Into Action
by Chantal Fernandez
BoF reports from the Copenhagen Fashion Summit, where founder Eva Kruse is trying to turn a hub for conversation into a genuine catalyst for action.
The Muse
Costume Designer Ane Crabtree On Creating The Handmaid's Tale's Ghastly, Gorgeous Dystopia
by Lisa Butterworth
If you’re watching Hulu’s adaptation of Margaret Atwood’s 1985 novel The Handmaid’s Tale, nothing sends a chill down the spine like the visage of Elisabeth Moss, Alexis Bledel, or any number of Handmaids obscured by the “wings” of lily-white bonnets and bedecked in ominous, hooded red capes.
Lenny
When Gabourey Sidibe Got Dissed By a Saleswoman
by Gabourey Sidibe
The actress is almost turned away at Chanel, until the saleswoman figures out Gabby is famous.
British Vogue
Dior: Savage Beauty In A Californian Canyon
by Suzy Menkes
Vogue's international editor reports back from the Santa Monica Mountains.
The Business of Fashion
Miroslava Duma Launches Fashion Tech Lab with $50 Million to Invest
by Robb Young and Limei Hoang
The founder of Buro 24/7 is setting up a hybrid venture that is part investment fund, accelerator and experimental laboratory to commercialise new technologies and sustainable innovation for the fashion industry.
WNYC
The Decline of J. Crew, and Branded Fashion
by Ilya Marritz and Joshua Rothman
Like many retailers, J. Crew is fighting a mighty foe - the Internet.
outer space
The Fashion Law
Is Los Angeles the Next Fashion Capital?
In the U.S., New York is undoubtedly the fashion capital. Los Angeles, on the other hand, has typically been characterized as second-rate, the home of fast fashion, the Kardashians and Juicy Couture. However, there are quite a few designers that are making a name for the west coast.
The Telegraph
How Balenciaga shaped fashion
by Lisa Armstrong
His clothes made Audrey Hepburn froth at the mouth, and Dior called him ‘master’.
WSJ
Luxury Watchmakers Must Get With the Technological Times
by Stephen Wilmot
Sweeping board and management changes say more about the risks facing Cartier-owner Richemont and other luxury groups than an underwhelming quarter for watch sales.
i-D Magazine
​breaking free from the fashion schedule with this is the uniform
by Matthew Whitehouse
As This Is The Uniform kicks off a month of events in East London, we speak to designer and founder Jenna Young about consumption, sustainability and disrupting the fashion industry.
British Vogue
A Preview of Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion
by Scarlett Conlon
We go behind-the-scenes at the V&A for an exclusive preview of its forthcoming fashion exhibition.
Fashionista
Ashley Graham Has Only Just Started Building Her Empire
by Tyler McCall
With her memoir, "A New Model," she's getting real about her career as a plus size model.
South China Morning Post
Shanghai street style is exploding -- from Wang Lili to Timothy Parent, meet the people who are shaping the scene
by Clay Hales
People in China are growing bolder and more experimental with what they wear, providing ample fodder for bloggers and scenesters who busily snap the evolving, and sometimes quite shocking, street styles.
Fortune Magazine
Canada Goose Is Practicing Patience With Its International Expansion
by John Kell
New stores will open in London, Chicago this fall.
Chelsea Now
Garment Industry Won’t Fray in Quest to Stay Put
by Jackson Chen
BY JACKSON CHEN | Organizations that are working to preserve the fabric of the Garment District are offering alternative proposals to what they see as an unfriendly zoning change being pushed by the city. The fact that criticism is coming from many quarters was clear at a Mon., April 24 forum and panel discussion convened…
Backchannel
The Shattering Truth of 3D-Printed Clothing
by Roni Jacobson
Fashion visionaries are using 3D printing to create mind-bending textiles that are nearly impossible to wear.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Territory"
The Blaze
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@JasonHirschhorn


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