I didn’t do knock-offs. I did knock-ups! | | Gucci Cruise 2018, Palazzo Pitti, Florence. May 29, 2017. (Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images) | | | | “I didn’t do knock-offs. I did knock-ups!” |
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| rantnrave:// Much of fashion history has been written, yet like all historical records, there's far more to be discovered, resurfaced, and reinvigorated. GUCCI showed Cruise 2018 in the PALAZZO PITTI, amid a formidable collection of Renaissance art amassed by the MEDICI family. The collection played on codes of visual splendor through the ages, with pearl-encrusted headwear and gilt crowns decorated with laurels and lyres. Yet all references to ornate and aristocratic splendor were set astride turtleneck zip-up sweaters, striped rugby polos, and track pants more recognizable in styles of the 1960s and '70s. Centuries-old textile motifs showed up next to fringed biker jackets and logo tees. The Gucci monogram was splayed over handbags, fur overcoats, knit socks, and hosiery in what seemed like endless iterations of the "G" pattern repeat. True to form, this version of Gucci encompassed such universal reference it was almost intergalactic. It was a recognition of history without heeding to it. ALESSANDRO MICHELE has a vision. Are you along for the ride?... KAAT DEBO writes that current interest in visionary designers from the twentieth century may have to do with the shifting sands of fashion context today. The conditions required to create, produce, communicate, and share fashion feel less stable, less known than ever. Is this a feeling or a fact? How much of both? With fewer variables known, I say embrace chance... Are young designers well-positioned to execute on visionary talent? This piece by STEVE DOOL examines what happens after young designers win design competitions... MULBERRY goes see-now-buy-now... Loved these two fashion films created for the SHOWSTUDIO x PARSONS competition: "The Lonely Crowd" and "Remember the Forgotten." | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Every garment — a tie, a dress, a pair of socks or shoes — is a communication device of varying power and clarity, and we choose how to use those tools to sway those looking at us. | |
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The Victoria and Albert Museum celebrates the 100th founding anniversary of the mythical Spanish designer. | |
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It was your mom’s favorite label - 40 years ago. Now a new designer must upgrade its look without alienating old fans. | |
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How can you flip limited resources and fleeting opportunities into long-term growth and viability? | |
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In a fashion era defined by rapid change, museums are celebrating designers who remained true to their visions: Margiela, Kawakubo and Balenciaga. | |
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Melanie Ward ushered in a new mood of raw imagery in the 1990s, helping to build some of the era’s most iconic brands, including Helmut Lang and Calvin Klein. | |
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"Organic" is a powerful marketing tool, but it has its pros and cons. | |
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A growing number of consumers are rejecting chemical-filled cosmetics for pricey, plant-based alternatives. It’s a thriving sector--one that some experts think could change the beauty industry for good. | |
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Fashion brands are turning to manufacturers in Eastern Europe and Central America for greater agility and speed to market. | |
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In a quest to deepen the meaning and purpose of clothing, style insider Miroslava Duma is bringing science into the equation. | |
| Beauty vloggers and cult celebrities are being courted by luxury brands. | |
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They want their degrees -- and their stress -- to be taken seriously. | |
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The French performance brand is actually making running look cool-and focusing on quality first. | |
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As the iconic New York designer prepares to launch a retrospective exhibition and career-spanning book, she reminisces about underage Iggy Pop concerts in suburban Detroit and 90s shopping trips with Marc Jacobs. | |
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Tamsin Blanchard reviews a nostalgic exhibition. | |
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Dapper Dan was a hustler who became a fashion legend in the 1980's for making bespoke garments for figures like Mike Tyson and drug kingpins like Alberto “Alpo” Martinez. | |
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Deborah Turbeville’s photographs are dark, emotive landscapes that just happened to feature fine attire. | |
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Whether it's popularizing "cushion foundations" or making snail slime an "It" ingredient in skincare, Amorepacific has had a hand in it. | |
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Jonathan Saunders shocked the industry by shutting his label ‘for personal reasons’ -- then did it again when he took the reins at DVF. A year into the job, designer Jonathan Saunders tells all to Dan Rookwood. | |
| | | 高橋幸宏 (Yukihiro Takahashi) |
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