We are never asked about raw materials. We made this great achievement concerning viscose, but nobody asked us about it. Raw materials are a personal obsession of mine: I believe that if you know where your raw materials come from, you know everything else.
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The men of Pitti Uomo. Rui Martins, Farid Sadrudin, Amilton Estrela, Artur Santos and Claudio Sousa. Florence, June 13, 2017.
(Claudio Lavenia/Getty Images)
Wednesday - June 14, 2017 Wed - 06/14/17
rantnrave:// Oh, the journeys of a much-loved fashion URL. So long, STYLE.COM. It's been a series of goodbyes for the once-venerated fashion site, which established a reputation as a critical, authoritative voice on the fashion industry over its fifteen-year history as an editorial site. That reputation has been hard to shake since its editorial existence shuttered two years ago. For those who still miss the former site, myself included, there's always the INTERNET ARCHIVE. No tears for the e-commerce iteration of Style.com, which never quite hit the mark. And what becomes of the overwhelming goodwill—and outright fandom—CONDÉ NAST squandered in shutting down the editorial site? I still think the Style.com brand is valuable, and it's owned by FARFETCH now. Perhaps there'll be a triumphant return for Style.com sometime in the future. Or at least some great retrospectives. No going back now. There are content-commerce markets to dive headfirst into! Does Farfetch need Condé-style content? The space is no less crowded today than it was yesterday. Execution is everything... Here's a cheat sheet for how Farfetch and NET-A-PORTER stack up... Get to know GRACE WALES BONNER, who brings a range of academic references to her work as a fashion designer. Go Grace... So, you want a clear index of D2C companies opening retail stores, and where those stores are located? Lucky for you, there's the Direct to Consumer Retail Map from LOOSE THREADS. Great resource... Here are two very different mentions of viscose in the apparel industry, from STELLA MCCARTNEY and this group of companies. What separates them? Several hundred dollars at retail, and some level of grit. Environmental change for the industry is slow, but it's happening... SNOOP DOGG x JOYRICH x MADE LA, met with a rave review.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
cash and carry
The Business of Fashion
The End of Style.com: Condé Nast Inks New Partnership with Farfetch
by Vikram Alexei Kansara
BoF has learned that Condé Nast will refocus its e-commerce strategy via a new partnership with Farfetch. Style.com will cease operations, effective immediately.
1 Granary
A Delicate Balancing Act: Sustainability at Stella McCartney
by Azra Sudetic
Designing a New Fashion Ecosystem with Claire Bergkamp, Head of Sustainability and Ethical Trade at Stella McCartney.
The Guardian
Revealed: reality of life working in an Ivanka Trump clothing factory
by Krithika Varagur
Workers complain of verbal abuse, impossible targets and ‘poverty pay’ so bad they have to live away from their children.
The Business of Fashion
What Olivier Saillard’s Ephemeral Museum Reveals About Fashion, Fragility and Decay
by Angelo Flaccavento
Olivier Saillard talks to Angelo Flaccavento about his latest project, a reflection on the ephemeral and morbid qualities of fashion, set to open on the first day of Pitti Uomo.
i-D Magazine
'We Don't Have the Same Idea of Paradise': Craig Green and Vivienne Westwood Share a Message of Optimism
by Anders Christian Madsen
Keep dancing till the world ends was Andreas Kronthaler's message to the kids at Vivienne Westwood on Monday (Jun 12) -- a sentiment echoed at Craig Green and Theo Adams' 'Choreomania.'
GQ
The Resistance Will Be Merchandised
by Kyle Chayka
For opportunist apparel makers, protest equals profit.
Racked
Half of the Country's Retail Jobs Are at Stake
by Chavie Lieber
With the sector disappearing, who is really going to suffer?
South China Morning Post
From Louis Vuitton to Rag & Bone, fashion brands are finding more analogue ways to stand out from the digital crowd
by Jing Zhang
Tactile and immersive exhibitions, innovative short films, hands-on workshops - in the search for more human ways to connect with customers amid the digital deluge, fashion houses are getting creative.
Fashionista
How 'Harry Potter' Costume Designer Jany Temime Created a World of Magic Through Clothing
by Maura Brannigan
When the industry ace joined for "Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban," she gave the costumes an elegant facelift, all starting with the iconic black wizard's robe.
Dazed Digital
Craig Green returns to sculptures for SS18
by Emma Elizabeth Davidson
From inciting the ire of the Daily Mail to becoming menswear designer of the year, Craig Green’s latest show marked the opening of a new chapter.
content and commerce
Man Repeller
How Shopping on a Budget Changed My Style
by Haley Nahman
How to shop cheap when you no longer have the money to participate in the fast fashion cycle or invest in designer clothes.
Dallas News
Neiman Marcus no longer for sale, said CEO Karen Katz; carrying on
by Maria Halkias
Dallas-based Neiman Marcus reported Tuesday a loss for the quarter ended in April and said sales declined 4.9 percent from a year ago... After announcing the company was considering a sale in March, Neiman Marcus chief executive officer Karen Katz told analysts during a conference call Tuesday that "any conversations regarding a partial or full sale of the company have terminated."
The Fashion Law
Was it a Good Business Move for Net-a-Porter to Swear Off Fur?
Last week, Net-a-Porter, one of the largest online designer fashion retailers, announced that it is going fur-free. Its e-commerce site, as well as the other sites under the Yoox Net-a-Porter (“YNAP”) umbrella, including menswear site Mr. Porter, Yoox and The Outnet, have been scrubbed of all things fur, leaving a seeming void, with only shearling and faux fur options in its place.
The Huffington Post UK
H&M, Zara, Levi's and M&S Found To Be Buying Viscose From Highly Pollutive Factories In Asia
by Susan Devaney
'Some of the world’s biggest brands are turning a blind eye to questionable practices.'
Bloomberg
Dior Chief Upbeat on Europe Prospects With Macron Reforms
by Rachel Chang
Christian Dior SE Chief Executive Officer Sidney Toledano is optimistic the European economy will do better in the coming years, especially with recently elected French President Emmanuel Macron’s promises to reform labor market regulations.
The Guardian
Menswear star Grace Wales Bonner: 'I had some pressure to prove my blackness'
by Lauren Cochrane
The designer talks about her mixed heritage, literary influences and why she is exploring a ‘gentler’ black male identity.
Glossy
Can a Muslim modeling agency gain traction in today's landscape?
by Jessica Schiffer
Former fashion designer Nailah Lymus first launched her Muslim modeling agency, Underwraps, in 2012. But despite features in "The New Yorker" and "Elle Brazil," and on NBC.com, it’s struggled to gain the traction one might expect from a business that’s five years old. To wit, it represents only 10 models and has a meager 800 followers on Instagram.
Digiday
Why Time, Conde Nast and other magazine publishers are charging into brand licensing
by Max Willens
With ad revenue challenging, magazine publishers including Time Inc. and Conde Nast are doubling down on brand licensing.
Bloomberg
A U.S. Shoe Town Tries to Rebuild From Warren Buffett's 'Worst Deal' Ever
by Noah Buhayar
Two decades after Dexter Shoe closed, $325 hand-sewn penny loafers may hold the key to keeping the craft alive in Maine-and U.S. jobs onshore.
Fashionista
Snoop Dogg's First Fashion Show With Joyrich Was One of the Wildest I've Ever Seen
by Dhani Mau
And a refreshingly authentic-feeling representation of '90s hip-hop culture in fashion.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"真夜中のジョーク (Midnight Jokes)"
間宮貴子 (Takako Mamiya)
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