Who knows? It’s only in the future you can know.
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Bill at work (erin m)
Monday - June 27, 2016 Mon - 06/27/16
rantnrave:// Street photography pioneer and fashion world fixture BILL CUNNINGHAM has passed away at 87. Tough to sum up what he meant to fashion, to journalism. He would probably say that it isn't worth trying, that he was just a guy going to work, taking some pictures, searching for something delightful. He is among the most important chroniclers of modern dress and his body of work is a tremendous gift to future fashion historians. He believed that to truly grasp a moment’s prevailing aesthetics you had to be at the fashion shows, at the parties, and out on the street, and no one saw more of all three. He was present at the first CHRISTIAN DIOR show in 1947. He witnessed the birth of ready-to-wear, YVES SAINT LAURENT’s entire career, the rise of hip-hop, captured first-hand the effects of globalization and climate change on personal style. He shot MARGIELA’s debut show and made sure the photos ran in DETAILS. At least one source claims he was the first to use the term "deconstructionist" in reference to fashion. He was also one of the industry's most beloved figures. He was kind, gentle, an egalitarian, fiercely committed to his work, which always felt celebratory. As DOREEN ST. FELIX puts it, "we see cultural anthropologists betray their subjects' humanity all the time and BILL CUNNINGHAM just never had to do that.” BILL’s work was a record of him listening rather than speaking. HINTON ALS writes that he made people "feel seen, which is one way to love someone.” To spread love in the pursuit of your passion -- what a marvellous way to spend a life. We could all learn something from BILL… Back in MARCH, THE GUARDIAN published a brief history of the bright blue workman’s jacket that BILL made -- and I don’t use this word lightly -- iconic… IDEA BOOKS is selling a grip of DETAILS back issues from the BILL CUNNINGHAM years… The latest REDEF FashionSET, "BILL CUNNINGHAM's Labor of Love," collects some of our favorite pieces on the man.
- Adam Wray, curator
watching
REDEF
REDEF FashionSET: Bill Cunningham's Labor of Love
by FashionREDEF
Ten great reads -- and one essential documentary -- on the late Bill Cunningham, arguably one of the most important chroniclers of modern dress and certainly among fashion's most beloved figures.
WSJ
The Cult of Vetements
by Alexandra Marshall
Designer Demna Gvasalia launched a fashion brand from his living room two years ago. His CEO brother, Guram, explains their unconventional path to success, their latest collaborations with companies like Reebok, Champion and Juicy Couture—and the $800 price tag of their sweatshirts.
Co.Design
How Fashion Brands Are Starting To Design Like Tech Companies
by Meg Miller
Inside Lululemon Labs, the cultish activewear brand's 11th New York City location that opened in March, there's not a single $100 yoga pant in sight. Instead, slimming pencil skirts, crisp blazers, and creased trousers-all in a distinctly N.Y.C. palette of black, white, navy, and gray-line the walls.
Vice Sports
How The Demands Of Style Brought Women's Boxing In Vogue At The Turn Of The Century
by L.A. Jennings
Fashion may be the most rapidly changing and fluid cultural ideation that humans practice. The ontology of fashion may seem undeserving of our attention, but fashion reveals the cultural preoccupation with the body. As styles shift, so do the type of ideal body that occupies those clothing.
New York Magazine
Vetements Redefines the Whole Idea of Designer Collaborations in One Show
by Cathy Horyn
Next Sunday, when Vetements holds its spring show in Paris - at the Galeries Lafayette department store - the cultish brand will have a little help from its friends. Eighteen different brands, ranging from Levi's and Hanes to Manolo Blahnik and Juicy Couture, will produce the entire Vetements collection.
The Atlantic
The Military Origins of the Cardigan
by Allison Geller
The popular sweater has a revolutionary history that includes Riot Grrrls and Coco Chanel.
The Washington Post
Why Washington’s most powerful women are wearing this jacket
by Robin Givhan
It's an unfair and brutal truth: "The more women talk, the more men turn off," says Nina McLemore. "One of the challenges for women is to learn to say fewer words in a lower voice." To be clear, McLemore doesn't condone this prejudice.
The New York Times
The Anti-Power Couple: Duro Olowu and Thelma Golden
by Lauren Indvik
LONDON -- Before Thelma Golden, chief curator of the Studio Museum in Harlem, met her future husband, the London-based designer Duro Olowu, she had been on a Barneys waiting list for one of his dresses for months.
Business of Fashion
The Age of Uncertainty
by Imran Amed and Helena Pike
MILAN, Italy - In the last nine months, Europe - still the heartland of the luxury fashion industry - has been rocked by major terror attacks in both Paris and Brussels.
New York Magazine
Is Instagram Makeup Making Us All Beauty Clones?
by Kathleen Hou
"Social media is the worst thing that's ever happened to the beauty industry," says celebrity makeup artist Pati Dubroff. It's a strange thing to hear from someone who just received over a thousand Likes on a picture of her client Emilia Clarke's makeup. But speaking on the phone from California, Dubroff doesn't falter.
listening
Luxury Daily
Louis Vuitton asked student hackers to upgrade its already efficient supply chain
LVMH flagship brand Louis Vuitton is celebrating the success of its second hackathon held last weekend in France. Louis Vuitton’s “Unlock Supply Chain” hackathon was in partnership with smart business platform Anaplan and BeMyApp at Ecole 42.
Fashionista
Do Brands Benefit from Being in 'Kim Kardashian: Hollywood'?
by Maria Bobila
The engagement seen by two major fashion labels shows the effectiveness of mobile games as a marketing platform.
Footwear News
3 Things To Know About The Current State Of Footwear Production
by Sheena Butler-Young
The state of footwear production was a hot topic at the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America 2016 Impact Executive Summit in Shenzhen, China last week. While China continues to be the lead sourcing hot spot for footwear production, Vietnam continues to rise in importance creating robust debates about the future of sourcing.
Business of Fashion
Casual Style Contributing to China's Luxury Fatigue
by Jerry Clode
Casualwear now occupies more space in local wardrobes, as luxury loses cultural clout, argues Jerry Clode.
BBC News
Snap, swipe, like
by Sarah Finley
We use smartphone swipe technology to find a date on Tinder, so can we use it to find the perfect outfit as well? Tech firm Bijou Commerce believes so. Its platform enables fashion and beauty apps to offer single-image browsing - customers can swipe right if they like a product, and left if they don't.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube.
"Happy Man"
Chic
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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