The reaction of creative people cannot be unconnected to the times—and fashion, which moves faster and more visibly than art, movies, or theater, is the quickest response medium of all. | | | | Veruschka sits in Monade, a Plexiglas chair designed by Gianfranco Fini for Ditta Zanotta. Vogue 1969.
(Franco Rubartelli/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images) | | | | | | “The reaction of creative people cannot be unconnected to the times—and fashion, which moves faster and more visibly than art, movies, or theater, is the quickest response medium of all.”
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| | rantnrave:// What happens when a concept is released into the world, resonates, goes viral, then reaches stratospheric pop-culture notoriety with one glaring omission: the authors' original intent? We all know what happened to PEPE, but one can't kill a word. And this one—normcore—is sanctioned by the OED. K-HOLE's EMILY SEGAL delivers a post-mortem on normcore and keeps a sense of humor about the warped uptake of the concept in media and advertising. It's a great primer for anyone who missed the original K-HOLE report. Plus, Segal shares some funny moments for the term, revisited through bad headlines, JERRY SEINFELD's tweet, and a CHROME extension that blocks the word. But for all the jokes, and there are many, the concept as it was first conceived is still percolating today. Take the PARIS MEN's runways as one example. Creative authorship is a whole other discussion, but I get the feeling fashion is reflecting some current state of culture here too... Was happy to see mention of ANNE HOLLANDER in this piece about a staple product release from ISSEY MIYAKE. It's a black mock turtleneck, similar in appearance (but not in cut) to one worn by the late STEVEN P. JOBS. TROY PATTERSON connects not just the look, but the habit, of dressing with austerity to moments in history. It's a way of dressing shared by monks and moguls alike... NICOLA FORMICHETTI keeps it real, talks getting into comment wars with people, then letting go... Some news: The location of the first SUPREME x LV pop-up will be steps away from BONDI BEACH in AUSTRALIA... NORDSTROM's latest in-store concept shop is modeled after computer hardware... Office space: FARFETCH is opening 25,000 square feet in LA... STATES OF UNDRESS goes to THAILAND... Detained CHINA LABOR WATCH activists have been released on bail. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Emily Segal on normcore and its appropriation in media and advertising. | | |
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| The techno-savvy monk’s uniform lives on. | | |
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| The reaction of creative people cannot be unconnected to the times-and fashion, which moves faster and more visibly than art, movies, or theater, is the quickest response medium of all. | | |
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| Walking into Thom Browne’s Paris headquarters is a little like walking back in time — into a midcentury world filled with men in permanently pressed and fitted two-piece suits with heavy brogues and clip-on ties. The designer’s universe unfolds in shades of gray, like a 1950s television series with the contrast turned way down. | | |
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| No shopping trip to the Five Boroughs is complete without swinging by Williamsburg's Idol Brooklyn. The tightly curated shop-where Human Made and Cav Empt seamlessly sit next to Rick Owens and Raf Simons-is a true destination for menswear fans of all types thanks to the fan's first perspective of the store's triumvirate of co-founders: Alex Kasavin, Daniel Franco, and Wei Du. | | |
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| Old Axe guy would probably call new Axe guy a cuck. | | |
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| A California company makes weed vaporizers to suit every mood-here’s what happened when I tried them. | | |
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| Since most fashion brands are privately held companies exempt from required public disclosures of revenue and profitability, it is difficult - if not nearly impossible - to gauge which brands are thriving. | | |
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| "I think that fashion is going to go more towards — I don’t want to say exclusive because that’s a horrible word — something more special." | | |
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| Designers are turning to social media, as well as legal action, in the fight against knockoffs. | | |
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| The Photographer and Casting Director on the Future of Faces. | | |
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| David Spooner, who negotiated the textile and apparel provisions of 10 U.S. Free Trade Agreements while at USTR, emphasized the need to maintain the current global value chains in the Western Hemisphere. | | |
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| Globalization has been a double-edge sword for menswear. On the one hand, it’s wiped out many of the distinctive features that once made regional dress unique... At the same time, it’s allowed consumers to more easily tap into overseas markets (and, by the same token, for overseas companies to gain a broader audience). | | |
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| Can the global elite's favorite magazine survive in an age of populism? | | |
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| Modern retailerers start from the self-disruption premise -- if they don't constantly cannibalize their own business, someone else will. | | |
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| A worker with blood dripping from his head marked a low point in the tense, grinding life at a southeastern China factory used by Ivanka Trump and other fashion brands. An angry manager had hit him with the sharp end of a high-heeled shoe. | | |
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| GLASS meets up with Fabrizio Buonamassa -- watch design director at Bulgari and finds out more about his career. | | |
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| The gender-fluid group's fourth collection revolved around the theme of the doll. | | |
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| One bad drought can mean big trouble. | | |
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| "The David Rubenstein Show: Peer-to-Peer Conversations" explores successful leadership through the personal and professional choices of the most influential people in business. Renowned financier and philanthropist David Rubenstein travels the country talking to leaders to uncover their stories and their path to success. | | |
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