In my world, of course, it don’t matter. You could be a gangster with a dress, you could be a gangster with baggy pants. I feel like there’s no such thing as gender.
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Young Thug. (Andy Mbikay)
Thursday - July 07, 2016 Thu - 07/07/16
rantnrave:// CALVIN KLEIN has just unveiled the next phase of their controversial #mycalvins campaign, and it features about two full baseball teams worth of celebrities from around the world. They booked everyone from fashion world immortals GRACE CODDINGTON and KATE MOSS, to Korean rapper KEITH APE, to teenage athlete MO'NE DAVIS, to the elusive FRANK OCEAN. They've also featured YOUNG THUG, who I consider to be not just the best rapper alive but one of the few celebs per generation who turns getting dressed into an art form. YOUNG THUG's known for his gender-bending personal style, which he explains for CALVIN's campaign. I'm a fan of #mycalvins, mainly for the diversity it showcases. Wonder what'll happen to it if RAF SIMONS is, indeed, named Creative Director. My understanding -- based on comments from CALVIN himself and rumors surrounding RAF's departure from DIOR -- is that RAF will oversee the label's ad campaigns, and he's never been one to use celebrities, nor has diversity been a focus of his work... Belated EID MUBARAK to all who celebrated yesterday. MUSLIMS often dress their best on EID to celebrate the end of RAMADAN, and QUARTZ's NUSHMIA KHAN took some beautiful photographs of congregants in CHICAGO to mark the occasion. Many rich traditions old and new celebrated here... For the next week, the corner of 57th and 5th in NEW YORK CITY will be known at BILL CUNNINGHAM CORNER... YOOX NET-A-PORTER is expecting a 20 percent increase in sales with introduction of private-label clothing... This summer, consider taking fewer selfies. Not because they make you a bad, self-absorbed millennial, but because you're putting your elbows at risk... Nice profile of photographer NAN GOLDIN from HILTON ALS with a focus on her influential "Ballad of Sexual Dependency," often credited with creating the heroin chic aesthetic that would be popularized by magazines like I-D and THE FACE and used in fashion ads -- a tactic GOLDIN herself called "reprehensible and evil."
- Adam Wray, curator
slime season
Racked
Champion's Head Designer on the Vetements Effect
by Hayley Phelan
The latest collection from radical Paris-based juggernaut Vetements -- which debuted, incongruously, at Haute Couture Week in Paris -- is essentially one big D.I.Y.
The Talks
Renzo Rosso: "We Have Gained Respect"
Renzo Rosso on luxury acquisitions and being a provocateur.
The New York Times
Echoes of Lost Empires at Chanel and Maison Margiela
by Vanessa Friedman
PARIS - There they were, the petites mains, bent over their pattern tables, kneeling by a hemline, sewing, cutting, basting: 78 of the unheralded artisans of the Chanel couture, in person under the glass dome of the Grand Palais.
The Globe and Mail
‘Four triangles of nothing’: How the bikini was born 70 years ago
by Jana Pruden
On July 5, 1946, along the edges of the crowded Piscine Molitor in Paris, a French automotive engineer named Louis Réard unveiled his newest creation to the world. It was so risqué only a nude dancer would show it. So earth-shaking, it was named after the atomic bomb.
i-D Magazine
Kevin Amato's New Crowdsourced Magazine is For Youth By Youth
by Zio Baritaux
WOMB magazine, a new print publication by photographer and casting director Kevin Amato, nurtures young artists, photographers, models and musicians
Business of Fashion
Software Is Reshaping Fashion's Back End
by Lauren Sherman
Digital has revolutionised the front-end of fashion, but the industry’s less glossy back-end systems have remained relatively untouched — until now.
T Magazine
In Paris, 48 Hours With Brioni’s New Designer
by Alice Cavanagh
When he was the fashion director for the German luxury e-commerce store MyTheresa, Justin O'Shea clocked in about eight shows a day and followed the international fashion-week circuit for up to 10 months of the year.
AnOther
The Photographic Legacy of Helmut Newton and Alice Springs
by Maisie Skidmore
"Us and Them," republished this month by Taschen, is a powerful ode to the relationship that shaped two of the 20th century's most important creative talents.
Not Just A Label
The Social Significance of Deconstruction
by Georgia Illingworth and Jacob Hall
A cursory glance through any high-street rail reveals this season’s most prevalent trends come courtesy of the cult design collective Vetements and the ever-ubiquitous Kanye West's Yeezy label. The proliferation of logo stamped, oversized hoodies is one symptom; Topman’s moth-eaten sweatshirts in a familiar palette of sand and khaki are a second. These heavily referential pieces echo the unfinished, deconstructed style that characterises the aesthetics of both brands, dividing fashion press and sending consumers into a buying frenzy. So what is it about deconstructed fashion that creates such hype?
The New Yorker
Nan Goldin’s Life in Progress
by Hilton Als
Just as certain works of literature can radically alter our understanding of language and form, there are a select number of books that can transform our sense of what makes a photograph, and why. Between 1972 and 1992, the Aperture Foundation published three seminal photography books, all by women.
i came from nothing
Complex CA
Is Clothing Customization a Scam?
by Beejoli Shah
Invite essentially a isn't showing up in off-the-rack Armani. When he attended Jared Leto to an event and chances are incredibly high that the actor -​ Met Gala theme come to life -​ Gucci's Spring 2017 show during Men's Fashion Week in Milan last month, all eyes were once again on the Suicide Squad star's ensemble -​but not for the usual reasons.
Fast Company
The Secret Power Of Amazon's Dash Buttons: Not Sales, But Data
by Jared Newman
One year after launch, Amazon's Dash Buttons continue to bewilder. The palm-sized, battery-powered buttons, announced last year just before April Fool's Day, allow users to order goods from Amazon with one press. Each button bears the label of a specific brand like Huggies or Tide, and Amazon's mobile app lets users choose the type and quantity of product that a button press brings.
The Atlantic
The Unfortunate Reality of Dry Shampoo
by Olga Khazan
It's convenient, but bad for the scalp. So bad it might lead to hair loss. Please consider disabling it for our site, or supporting our work in one of these ways Subscribe Now > When I woke up, I would tip my head upside down, spray on the shampoo, shake my head a bit, flip it back over and grin at the reflection of my fluffy bouffant, in a move I like to call the Grimy Laker Girl.
Motherboard
This Pair of Smart Socks Got Me Into Wearable Tech
by Gabriela Barkho
Ahhh, wearable tech. Is there a bigger buzzkill than that random person at the party telling you all about their Fitbit heart rate? We get it, you run! As an anti-runner (come at me marathoners), I was a bit hesitant about how I'd fairly use and review the newly-launched Sensoria Fitness socks when I got my hands on them.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube.
"Drippin"
Young Thug
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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