To me luxury is being able to get up and wear what I want everyday. To me luxury is being able to leave work at a certain hour, to spend more time with my family on the weekends. Those things are luxury. I feel like the only luxury that there really is, is time.
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Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakesh, Vogue 1980.
(Horst P. Horst/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Friday - July 07, 2017 Fri - 07/07/17
rantnrave:// Haute couture has concluded for Fall 2017. As I've said before, there was a lushness to the shows, and it's good to see a fashion organization like the CHAMBRE SYNDICALE own its place in the world. Call it disruption or opportunity, change can be for the better, and it seems the institutions that organize and fund haute couture are up to the challenge. We've brought together essential coverage of couture week, including the debuts of American guest designers and the return of AZZEDINE ALAÏA. FashionSET, Couture Week: Fall 2017... BOUCHRA JARRAR is exiting LANVIN after sixteen months, having shown only two collections at the label. Jarrar took on the creative director role facing some steep challenges, not least of which was the long shadow of beloved designer ALBER ELBAZ and the public blowout over his departure. That, along with budget cuts and a seemingly conservative working environment don't bode well for anyone tasked with righting the ship. Do creative directors have support groups? Because that would be the most interesting SLACK channel ever... But back to Lanvin, the label should take a risk, because the conservative moves aren't working. Somehow, I don't think an "external audit" is the answer to getting the label into turnaround mode. There's an incredible amount of heritage to work with at a house like Lanvin... ALEXANDER FREELING's essay "On Buttonholes" is about so much more: production by hand and machine, social signals in sartorial details, the repetition of honed craft, and a personal journey through learning to stitch one's own. Great read... In brief: An upcoming exhibition on photographer LOUISE DAHL-WOLFE... From the world of GUCCI, Chinese customers can now shop the label online. Gucci president and CEO MARCO BIZZARRI is named Chevalier of the Ordre National de la Légion d’Honneur, which was established by one NAPOLÉON BONAPARTE in 1802. Wonder if Napoléon would have enjoyed INSTAGRAM... QVC and HSN merge... DANIELLE STEELE has been attending haute couture shows for decades. Love her blog dispatches.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
motion capture
The New York Times
Ritual and Revelation on the Runway
by Vanessa Friedman
Three extraordinary couture shows, from Valentino, Fendi and Azzedine Alaïa, reassert the value of what you don’t see.
Parisian Gentleman
On Buttonholes
by Alexander Freeling
Vice is not what it used to be. Tom Wolfe’s 1966 essay on the subtle marks of bespoke tailoring, and the furtive satisfaction they grant to a select group of men, focuses above all on functional buttonholes. They are, for Wolfe, one of those “marginal differentiations” detectable only by a small elect; they are a sign of distinction but also obsession, an indulgence that is delightful and shameful by turns: working buttonholes are “The Secret Vice.”
Fashionista
Is Streetwear the New Americana?
by Maria Bobila
The classic American wardrobe may be different than before - and a lot harder to pin down, too.
The Business of Fashion
In Paris, a Global Platform for a Fashion Industry in Extreme Flux
by Lauren Sherman
Buoyed by inbound talent and newfound economic confidence, Paris is emerging as the centre stage of an increasingly fragmented industry.
The New York Times
Fashion’s Full Disclosure — or Not
by Julie Zerbo
Brands often ferry fashion writers to far-flung shows, but few reviews note the arrangement - even though government guidelines require it.
i-D Magazine
fashion, your disco needs you
by James Anderson
From Bodymap and Taboo to BoomBox and Gareth Pugh, London fashion has always been passionately intertwined with nightlife.
The Business of Fashion
Why Artémis, Not Kering, Invested in Giambattista Valli
by Megan Doyle
Last week, Artémis, the mega holding company of the Pinault family, announced that it has acquired a minority stake in Giambattista Valli. But why didn’t Kering just make the investment itself?
InStyle.com
How Julien Dossena Is Reviving the House of Paco Rabanne
by Eric Wilson
How the creative director breathed new life into a famed fashion house.
i-D Magazine
new glamour: margiela, fendi, and valentino on the final day of couture
by Anders Christian Madsen
Haute couture got a contemporary injection of relevance on the last day of fall/winter 17 shows in Paris as Maison Margiela, Fendi, and Valentino redefined glamour.
Glossy
Confessions of an indie fashion designer: 'The whole industry is a pyramid scheme'
by Jessica Schiffer
Upstart designers are under pressure to produce more, better, faster — but often lack the necessary support to help them do so.  For our latest installment of Confessions, in which we grant anonymity for honesty, we spoke to an independent designer about the challenges of making it in a fast-paced industry that has an uncertain future, questionable values and a discouraging success rate.
time-lapse
BBC
Dirty laundry: Are your clothes polluting the ocean?
by Victoria Gill
Our clothing and laundry are polluting the marine environment, UK research reveals.
Fashionista
The Story Behind Old Navy's Flag Tee, a Nostalgic — and Accidental — Phenomenon
by Maura Brannigan
The retail giant never expected for its Fourth-of-July line to become as tied to Americana as it is now, 23 years later.
Racked
Stand-Up Comics on What They Wear to Make a Special Special
by Caitlin Cruz
How do you dress to go on stage - and on Netflix?
Bloomberg
Opinion | Retail Apocalypse Can Lead to Suburban Renaissance
by Noah Smith
Stores that shrink or close under pressure from e-commerce will create opportunities for reshaping the American landscape.
Yahoo! Style
Who Really Shops at High-End Airport Stores? A Lot of People, and They Spend Thousands
by Alexandra Mondalek
Shoppers with money to blow and time to kill are enjoying luxury shopping at international airports like Heathrow, where a new personal shopping service launched, attracting fashionistas and celebrities.
Fast Company
Burberry Combined Business And Creativity In One Exec. Here’s Why It Was A Bad Fit
by Elizabeth Segran
The luxury brand’s three-year experiment at blending the two sides failed. Christopher Bailey is quitting his role as CEO to focus on designing.
Forbes
Why Walmart-Bonobos Is A Bigger Deal Than Amazon-Whole Foods
by Pamela N. Danziger
Walmart is doing transformational innovation while Amazon is innovating in an adjacency with less potential for future.
Glossy
Why the designer revolving door isn't letting up
by Hilary Milnes
It’s become an all too common narrative within the luxury industry. A struggling fashion house hires a high-profile designer, who is then burdened with pressure to turn business around, more or less immediately. When that fails materialize over the course of two or three seasons, the creative director leaves the company.
The Telegraph
Inside Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams - the summer blockbuster fashion exhibition
by Caroline Issa
This year has been a bumper year for the quality and quantity of beautifully curated fashion exhibitions.
WWD
Condé Nast Forces Changes to Lucinda Chambers’ Firing Tell-All
by Kali Hays
The web site Vestoj has decided to amend the article, which made waves with Chambers’ frank view of her decades in fashion.
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