There is far too much corporate banter around values and purpose, great companies ‘do’ more than they ‘say’ and they simply get on with it.
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Head of State presentation, NYFW: Men's, Dune Studios, July 10, 2017.
(Randy Brooke/Getty Images)
Wednesday - July 12, 2017 Wed - 07/12/17
rantnrave:// NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: MEN'S is all about lowkey sportswear so far. That and enough bomber jackets to outfit whole armies of would-be pilots / street-style stars (kidding). But seriously, someone needs to put together a GIF of every bomber from every label shown over just two days. We're deep into bomber jacket territory here. Has the MA-1 silhouette transcended the trend, entering the realm of standard issue dressing like the t-shirt or the blazer? Or is it just a sure sale? I appreciate GUY TREBAY's take so far. Many of the NYFW:M designers are not established names, but—they are hopeful, they have a desire to address the times in which they live, and they need to start somewhere. Check out emerging labels HEAD OF STATETEDDY ONDO ELLA, and FENG CHEN WANG. And head to WWD for coverage of all the presentations and runway shows... I don't know what a struggling industry's answer to total irrelevance is, but a healthy ecosystem of independent designers and publishers is a place to start. THE FASHION LAW has some thoughtful commentary on the strong-arm tactics some companies take in protecting their businesses. Protectionism isn't always as effective as it seems, however—it can negatively affect the wider industry (and a company's own relevance) in the long term. Is there room for all, or have the scales tipped toward the large and consolidated? Independent voices have made incredible contributions to fashion—take these recollections of how THE FACE got started. Also, cue MICKEY BOARDMAN's take on his career and the early days of PAPER MAGAZINE... The LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR HORIZON is revealed as LVMH's foray into the universe of connected devices, aka the internet of things. It's quite a biz dev move, one that a luxury conglomerate can undertake as a bet on the IoT scenario playing out sooner rather than later. Judging from the reaction on TWITTER, Vuitton needs only one endorsement to sell this watch, and it's LUHAN. Or should I say, "LUHAAAAAAAAAAN." Gotta love K-pop fans... Briefs: BURBERRY is among companies committing to clean energy... More great analysis on LANVIN... Something you may have missed: Upcoming exhibition "Italiana. Narrating Italian History Through Fashion, 1971-2001," organized by MARIA LUISA FRISA and STEFANO TONCHI, is on my radar. I highlight the show here because of their work together on the exhibition/book EXCESS, which is a wonderful look at the 1980s.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
dropship
The New York Times
Hopeful Upstarts Kick Off Men’s Fashion Week in New York
by Guy Trebay
Trying to lighten a troubled sociopolitical mood through design.
Fashion Culture Design
Interview: Mickey Boardman
by Simon Collins and Mickey Boardman
Mr Mickey loves Kim Kardashian, Madonna, Kylie, Mia Farrow and here he tells us why. Who broke the internet? No, it wasn't the Russians, it was Mickey Boardman, PAPER magazine and Kim Kardashian's bum.
The New York Times
Get Ready for the Internet of Louis Vuitton Things
by Vanessa Friedman
The fashion house is unveiling its first smartwatch, the Tambour Horizon, but it’s not stopping there.
The Business of Fashion
The Cost of Dead Inventory: Retail's Dirty Little Secret
by Haley Smith Recer
Among the many problems facing today's retail market, unsold stock might be one of its biggest handicaps, argues Haley Smith Recer.
GQ
Who Wins When Fashion Gets Political?
by Cam Wolf
When designers like Robert Geller and Alexander Wang bring some activism, we wonder: who profits? So we made a progress report of politically active brands.
The Fashion Law
Fashion Wants Creatives to Just Keep Quiet
Fashion and media companies are increasingly relying on a handful of legal tactics to keep at-times ugly practices out of the spotlight. Non-disclosure agreements (“NDA”), non-disparagement provisions, and threats of defamation-centric lawsuits, in particular, are proving increasingly commonplace in order for industry giants to keep their creatives quiet.
AnOther
The Awe-Inspiring Brilliance of Alaïa Haute Couture
by Alexander Fury
Alexander Fury reflects on the maison of Azzedine Alaïa and finds beaucoup de vêtements, beaucoup de travail, and beaucoup d'amour.
Style Bubble
Rêve Away With Dior
by Susie Bubble
If we’re calling fashion exhibitions at museums “blockbusters”, a term coined when Met’s 2011 Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty broke all visitor records at the time, then trailers must be warranted.  Consider this to be a bumper trailer for a bumper exhibition.
The Guardian
Chinese labour activist says he was arrested due to factory's Trump links
by Benjamin Haas
Hua Haifeng spent weeks in detention after undercover investigation revealed abuse of workers at Ganzhou factory that makes shoes for Ivanka Trump’s brand.
Fashionista
Why American Express Is Banking on Fashion to Up its Cool Factor
by Fawnia Soo Hoo
The credit card company enlists sartorial tastemakers like "Harper's Bazaar" EIC Glenda Bailey and MADE's Jenné Lombardo to help create fashion 'experiences' for members.
airmail
WWD
Media Companies' New Master: Amazon
by Kara Bloomgarden-Smoke
Publishers increasingly look to Amazon for revenue.
10 Magazine
RETRO READ: When Alexander Fury Met Azzedine Alaïa
by Alexander Fury
Still in recovery from Monsieur Alaïa's breathtaking return to Paris Couture last week. Sophia's horizontal. It was brill. And, whilst it satiated most of our Alaïa-based cravings, we always want more more more. So, in lieu of yet more outbursts of indomitable love, we've instead dug up this one from our archive.
Racked
Why Won't American Airlines Recall Uniforms Making Its Employees Sick?
by Claire Hannum
Alaska Airlines pulled the offending uniforms -- American has not.
Vanity Fair
Law Roach on How Céline Dion Became Fashion's Most Wanted
by Erika Harwood
The singer’s “image architect” Law Roach talks Vanity Fair.
The Guardian
How we made 'The Face'
by Laura Snoad and Ben Beaumont-Thomas
"Our office was damp with flooding. An intern turned up in a purple velvet Jean Paul Gaultier suit and was so disappointed he left after a week."
HERO magazine
How menswear designer Feng Chen Wang is building a nomadic global brand
by Alex Baker
With so many budding talents out to make a name for themselves, the competition for emerging designers is tough. Which makes 2015 RCA Graduate Feng Chen Wang’s fast rise all the more impressive. After showing collections in New York, London and Shanghai and with fashion platforms V-Files, MAN and Fashion East, the designer today returns to the Big Apple for her SS18 show.
Glossy
Confessions of a fashion designer: 'It's inevitable you'll be copied -- it's a s*** show'
by Jill Manoff
Thanks in part to social media, which facilitates unprecedented access to designers’ work, the fashion industry is overflowing with copyright violations. Though social platforms also provide a means of shaming copycats, it seems the result is embarrassment at best. Even following the Varsity Brands vs. Star Athletica case, current copyright laws do little to protect designers.
Paper
Dannielle Owens-Reid Is Bringing Gender-Neutral Clothing to All
by Ilana Kaplan
The founder of Radimo LA talks the importance of gender-neutral clothes and where she hopes it goes in the future.
StyleZeitgeist Mag
Aesop's Philosopher King
by Eugene Rabkin
Interviewing the founder of a grooming brand, now that’s something I would have never thought I would do.
WSJ
The Cosmetics Counter Was Long Immune to Discounting. Not Anymore
by Suzanne Kapner
Desperate to get shoppers in the door, U.S. department stores have started to discount the one item they had long been able to sell at full price: cosmetics.
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