Sarah and Colette are supportive of creation, period, regardless of the provenance of the brand. That's why when something like a 'luxury street' trend comes along they don't have to change their formula. It's been there all along.
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Raf Simons S/S 2018, NYC, July 11, 2017.
(Giovanni Giannoni/Courtesy Raf Simons)
Thursday - July 13, 2017 Thu - 07/13/17
rantnrave:// I've talked to people and heard so many different perspectives on suits—they're interpreted as niche, stuffy, a perfect art, a bland uniform, or a market to be disrupted in equal measure. There seem to be no prevailing values here. The diffuse nature of wearing a suit today is not a bad thing IMO, and there have been some wonderful reads recently on the subject. We've brought them together for you here, and they cross lines of power, politics, and gender. In a world of casual dressing, what does it mean to wear a suit today? FashionSET: Suit Evolution... COLETTE is closing its doors at the end of this year. The store has been a pioneer for over twenty years, championing emerging talent and collaborations—it was savvy to fashion's subcultural side before that became de rigeur. I recall a three-dimensional virtual store they had on their website—circa 2002. The store was a cultural force and international destination, and it will be missed. All I can think about is what SARAH ANDELMAN's next move will be. Here are some fond farewells to the beloved boutique... RAF SIMONS delivered a banner show at NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: MEN'S once again. Reviews have been subdued for most other labels of the week so far. From an educational perspective, are young designers being too conditioned to create from a merchandising perspective? What if a designer offered something a bit less cohesive, a bit less concerned with a brand punchline? It could still be well-conceived. It would stand out... I'm all about new ways of envisioning retail. OLIVELA was recently brought to my attention—it's a philanthropic model for e-commerce. What strikes me about the new site is that it a) stocks desirable labels (all accessories right now), b) offers a clean user experience, showing how one's purchase dollars are allocated, and c) has everything priced below retail. That's a lot of incentive to buy: an intersection of philanthropy, e-commerce, and fashion. It's a smart approach. I'm interested to see how the site will expand to more brands. For this week, Olivela collaborated with NOBEL LAUREATE (the youngest ever btw) MALALA YOUSAFZAI to benefit the MALALA FUND. It's on until July 16... In brief: GUCCI launches a home line... ALTUZARRA is departing NYFW to show in PARIS. Context helps... LV x SUPREME is apparently not cancelled—but fear not, it will be back. TBD.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
thread
The Washington Post
For spring 2018, Raf Simons knows that men will want to dress for a ‘Blade Runner’ dystopia
by Robin Givhan
His oversize sweaters, man-skirts and glossy rain coats are the high point of men's fashion week.
Glamour
Viceland's 'States of Undress' Offers a Hyper-Relevant Way to Talk About Fashion
by Ana Colon
Glamour caught up with Hailey Gates, host of Viceland's 'State of Undress,' to talk about how the stories explored in season two feel a little closer to home.
The New York Times
Real New York Shows From Raf Simons and Todd Snyder
by Guy Trebay
A Belgian innovator and an Iowa-born traditionalist see to it that New York Fashion Week: Men’s honors its setting.
The Business of Fashion
The End of an Era: Colette to Close Its Doors
by Osman Ahmed
Colette, the Parisian boutique and longstanding temple of cool, is closing down after 20 years. Saint Laurent is currently in discussions to take over its Rue Saint-Honoré location.
1 Granary
Glenn Martens
by Aya Noël
Nothing better than having a first impression debunked. Especially if that impression was construed through months of cyber-stalking an individual for a school project. Thus was the case for Glenn Martens, creative director of Paris-based label Y/Project, whose media persona seemed to revolve entirely around his ability to have fun. 
AnOther
Fendi's Couture Furrytale
by Alexander Fury
The latest iteration of Karl Lagerfeld's haute fourrure for the house of Fendi conjured images of fairytales with its technical prowess, Alexander Fury notes.
Fashionista
How Willy Chavarria Went From a Pack-and-Ship Job at Joe Boxer to Running His Own Menswear Label
by Maria Bobila
We caught up with the longtime designer and business owner ahead of his New York Fashion Week: Men's show.
The Calvert Journal
Fashion without borders: these Russian brands are representing the true diversity of their culture
by Anastasiia Fedorova
There's more to Russian fashion than the so called post-Soviet trend.
The New York Times
A Summer Breeze Cools the New Hugo Boss Collection
by Matthew Schneier
As the world heats up, the German label presents men’s wear that is loose, roomy and light.
Racked
Glossier Is Going After New Customers With an Army of Reps
by Cheryl Wischhover
Some creative no-marketing marketing is helping the brand go international.
spool
The Business of Fashion
Can Isabel Marant Reclaim the Throne of French Girl Cool?
by Lauren Sherman
An avalanche of new competitors has threatened the label’s dominance as the ultimate exporter of Parisienne style. Chief executive Sophie Duruflé and deputy CEO Anouck Duranteau-Loeper reveal their defence plan.
Bloomberg
Dov Charney Couldn’t Keep American Apparel, So He Restarted It
by Matthew Townsend
Charney’s new company, Los Angeles Apparel, launched late last year as a wholesale business ... just like American Apparel’s origins in 1989.
GQ Style
Raf Simons Talks Blade Runner, Chinatown, and Taking Selfies with Fans
by Noah Johnson
The designer gets personal for a damp, dark show deep in Chinatown.
THE KINDCRAFT
Can Fashion's Human Rights Problems be Fixed?
by Justin Lancy
The Kindcraft talks with Sarah Labowitz about her tenure as co-director of NYU Stern Center for Business and Human Rights and what might be done to improve fashion's social impact.
Interview Magazine
All About Anna
by Colleen Kelsey
Dolly birds and Teddy Boys, cowboys, punks, pirates, and hippies have all been fodder for veteran New York designer Anna Sui.
Dull Magazine
Interview: Applecore
by Iggy Nko
Steven Alexis and Moriba Koné are the co-founders of the brand Applecore.
The Washington Post
The alt-right's Proud Boys love Fred Perry polo shirts. The feeling is not mutual
by Kyle Swenson
The iconic clothing line isn't happy to be the uniform of the far-right's “Western chauvinist” frat.
Fashionista
Stature, a Groovy New Online Boutique, Is Fixing How Petites Shop Independent Fashion
by Alicia McElhaney
Absolutely everything is modeled by "real" women who are five-foot-four or shorter.
Wad Magazine
Meet The Brand United Garment
by Lisa Bouteldja
UNITED GARMENT is our new crush. The brand favorite playing field is workwear, which it reinvents into an authentic and timeless masculine wardrobe, with American influences. And everything is made in France! We met Mickael Dos Santos its founder who told us his story.
Atlas Obscura
The Hidden Rules of the Puritan Fashion Police
by Sarah Laskow
Slashed sleeves, frizzed hair, or a gold hatband could land you in court.
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"Tasogare"
Mai Yamane
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