One of the things it stood by, in almost a commercially suicidal manner, was the fact that if you didn’t do some reading and interact with the site itself, and if you just wanted to go to the shop, you’d automatically be kicked off for 24 hours. | | | | Veruschka paints wearing Sant'Angelo. Salvador, in the Largo do Pelourinho. Vogue 1968.
(Franco Rubartelli/Getty Images) | | | | | | “One of the things it stood by, in almost a commercially suicidal manner, was the fact that if you didn’t do some reading and interact with the site itself, and if you just wanted to go to the shop, you’d automatically be kicked off for 24 hours.”
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| | rantnrave:// Cult label VEXED GENERATION is returning for A/W 2018, and I'm all for it. The label was built on the convictions of designers JOE HUNTER and ADAM THORPE, and together the two designed clothes meant to confront systems of power during a period of rapid technological change. Sound familiar? Timely, to say the least. Based on their interview in DAZED, the designers still have a radical streak. Yet as we know in fashion, when the past comes back, it takes on new forms, new meanings. Will be interesting to see the direction they take after having worked on the label pre-social media, pre-IPHONE. Per their (resurrected) website, it's time... There's another sign that NEW YORK FASHION WEEK is indeed becoming more consumer-facing. IMG announced a VIP program to connect brands with "high-end consumers" next season. If the week is going to cater to tourism and social marketing, then it should fully head in that direction and become an entertainment business—and actually make sure it entertains. Bring DOGE or something. Kidding of course (no animals were harmed in the making of this newsletter). If not, it could benefit from becoming more useful to the industry it serves. But don't take it from me. The ailments have been diagnosed at length—thoughtfully and because people care. Now let's move forward... What's been happening on the ground at NYFW: MEN'S? I'm going to shift into "glass half full" mode here. A label that's piqued my interest is MATIERE, which made its runway debut at NYFW:M. The collection is a strong mix of technical details and well-balanced proportions, with the zip-and-swish feeling of #techwear. Loved the subtly reflective fabrics and how they were layered in a color palette of ice-toned blues, pale greys, and cool ivory. Designer SCOT SHANDALOVE has an eye. Clean and confident. Look forward to seeing more from the label. Others to watch: BODE and RAUN LAROSE... Briefs: HYPEBEAST MAGAZINE issue 18 is intriguing... SHOPIFY adds an EBAY channel... MANOLO BLAHNIK's documentary looks like a treat... And about magazines—these scans of i-D's 1987 COMIC ISSUE are fantastic. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Its technical clothing was a response to increased CCTV surveillance, The Criminal Justice Bill and air pollution -- now ‘London’s answer to Helmut Lang’ is making a comeback. | | |
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| For the designer Emily Adams Bode, the shock of the new is worth less than the thrill of the old. | | |
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| New York Fashion Week has been losing significant names over the past several months, with Thom Browne, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, and Altuzarra -- some of the biggest players in New York fashion -- defecting to Paris to show their collections. | | |
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| Is New York fashion week crisis? Or is it the normal cycle of change? | | |
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| We talk to edward meadham about dressing as a form of armour, his interest in taking photographs, and what to expect from the new mini collection. | | |
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| IMG is working with select designers and partners who are interested in gaining access to high-end consumers to further their brand and business goals. | | |
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| And we're not talking about the Bravo reality show. Well, not entirely. | | |
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| Sometimes office dress codes hurt people you wouldn't expect. | | |
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| With dresses, corsets, shoes and bags, the London designer’s latest collection goes back to his girly-goth baroque roots. | | |
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| Colette, the Paris boutique/fashion industry mecca, is closing. What does that mean for fashion? | | |
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| With a hand in the birth of the modern concept of contemporary luxury, Andrew Rosen is the real Mr Big. An interview from our Issue 3 Business Series. | | |
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| LVMH hopes its new site, 24 Sèvres, becomes the online home of luxury shopping. | | |
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| 'There's nothing groundbreaking about a campaign starring a female model who's a little androgynous or an editorial with a straight guy wearing a skirt. Book a real genderqueer person. Use what's real.' | | |
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| In a market flooded with trendy yoga pants and designer sports bras, Nike is working harder than ever to serve the female athlete. | | |
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| Allan Baudoin is a London-based bespoke shoemaker. He is also one half of the team behind Baudoin and Lange, the RTW offshoot of his bespoke atelier. | | |
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| H&M and Erdem are the latest duo to give the mass-market, high-fashion collaboration a-go. The Swedish fast fashion giant and the London-based design darling announced on Thursday (Jul 13) that they have teamed up for a capsule, which will hit stores on November 2nd in 22 countries. | | |
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| If Germany's notable exports share a common trait, it's an air of stoic precision. The concept of "German engineering" conjures up thoughts of streamlined sportscar engines and refined architectural feats-all embodying the nation's oft-referenced commitment to detail, discipline and (perhaps most importantly) quality. | | |
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| After 20 years, legendary Parisian boutique colette is shuttering. Here's what fashion editors, buyers, and designers will miss about the shop. | | |
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| “Double, double toil and trouble,” wrote Shakespeare, and I can’t think of a better description of the situation at Ralph Lauren Corporation. “Double, double,” refers to two leaders in two short years. | | |
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| More and more brands are clamoring to create innovation hubs of their own - but have they started to become mere window dressing, or are they actually helping companies grow? Here's a look at the state of innovation labs at fashion and beauty brands. | | |
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