The business of fashion is overwhelmed. Brands are forced to produce and package multiple seasons. They're looking to attach themselves to an identity that is recognizable on many platforms. The stakes are higher, and the demand for content is driving the demand for more talent.
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An Oscar bridal look. (InterContinental Hong Kong)
Friday - July 22, 2016 Fri - 07/22/16
rantnrave:// Tough news for OSCAR DE LA RENTA as PETER COPPING departs after just three ready-to-wear collections. As VANESSA FRIEDMAN sees it, COPPING couldn't find a way to evolve the brand that felt both natural and fresh. Her assessment of the situation is a must-read, but here's a key segment: "Nudging a brand into a new design vernacular and getting consumers to speak it is complicated, especially when you can’t create an overnight revolution, as PHOEBE PHILO did at CÉLINE and MR. SLIMANE did at SAINT LAURENT, and just cry 'Out with the old!' But time is the one luxury that does not seem to be part of the luxury fashion world any more." While this surely isn't what ODLR leadership had in mind when COPPING came aboard, it could be a blessing in disguise -- an opportunity to regroup, reorient, decide exactly what sort of brand they want to be going forward. As far as who might replace COPPING, JASON WU was once rumored to be in the running for the gig, so you'd imagine he'll be discussed, though his work skews edgier than COPPING's. ALBER ELBAZ remains a free agent after his acrimonious split with LANVIN. LAURA KIM and FERNANDO GARCIA spent years working side-by-side with OSCAR in his atelier before leaving to start MONSE, and while they've got a full plate between their own line and consulting for CAROLINA HERRERA, adding a female perspective could be a savvy move... At REAL LIFE, MADELINE COLEMAN expounds on the legality and morality of street photography and the metaphysics of being seen in an age of nearly constant image capture. Tricky subject for philosophers and lawyers but a boon for fashion historians... Have a long-standing theory that bike messengers are always the best-dressed group of people in any major city -- the need for both high-function and high-visibility gear pays weird and exciting dividends -- and apparently it applies to the early 20th century as well as the early 21st... REDEF is looking for fashion, music, and sports curators. Send resumes to jobs@redefgroup.com.
- Adam Wray, curator
bridal
The New York Times
What Happened at Oscar de la Renta?
by Vanessa Friedman
All of which suggests that while this departure could be for purely non-work-related reasons, that seems unlikely. (Neither Mr. Bolen nor Mr. Copping were available for further comment.) And it in turn underscores the alchemy that goes into a successful brand-designer pairing.
Dazed Digital
How come the high street can blatantly steal designs?
by Julie Zerbo
LA artist Tuesday Bassen is the latest to have her work stolen by a major chain -- but what can people do in the face of mega corporations?
Business of Fashion
How Tibi’s Amy Smilovic Crawled Out of the Contemporary Trap
by Lauren Sherman
In a time when contemporary brands are on the wane, the 19-year-old label has managed to more than double its sales through a series of instinctual, pragmatic moves.
Fashionista
As Secondhand Clothing Market Heats Up Online, Startups Shift Their Focus to Men
by Lauren Indvik
Over the past seven years, venture capitalists have funneled hundreds of millions of dollars into websites and apps designed to get women to buy and sell their secondhand clothing and accessories online. Now, they are turning their attention to men.
Real Life
The Spy Is a Camera
by Madeline Coleman
Most of us want to be seen. Most of us don’t want to be seen by everyone
Sports Illustrated
Can Stephen Curry's signature shoe gain traction with sneakerheads?
by Omari Sankofa
After a record-setting regular season performance, Golden State star Stephen Curry reached the peak of NBA popularity. He led the league in jersey sales, received the highest amount of All-Star Game votes and became the NBA's first unanimous MVP in May. There is one thing about Curry that people seem undecided on, though: Are his shoes cool?
Racked
The Complicated World of Niche Cosplay
by Lilian Min
In the world of anime cosplay, battles about “accuracy” (and racism) abound.
Fast Company
How Birkenstock Stays In Vogue Without Selling Out
by Elizabeth Segran
The comfort shoe company has found a way to jump on fashion trends while staying true to its loyal, lifelong customers.
ELLE
Could Designer Exchange Programs Be the Answer to Fashion Week Dilemma?
by Hayley Phelan
Between Couture shows in Rome and Resort shows in Rio, it's clear that the traditional fashion capitals-New York, Milan, Paris, and London-no longer have a monopoly on fashion "week." What's less clear, however, is how emerging designers-who almost certainly don't have the funds to stage shows in far-flung locales-will fit into the changing landscape.
Foreign Policy
What Pokémon, Japanese Schoolgirl Punks, and Cocaine Have in Common
by Sophie Knight
There's a simple answer to the question of why the Pokémon Go mobile game has proved so addictive: It's that Pokémon are designed to be addictively cute. The millions of people running around trying to catch animated critters are the latest victims of a cult of cute - a cult that, like Pokémon itself, has its origins in Japan.
resort
Complex
The History of the Adidas Gazelle
by Gary Warnett
This is the year of the Adidas Gazelle, but the history of the shoe isn't as well-known. From celebrity co-signs to its design change, here's the story.
Forbes
Inside Under Armour's Efforts To Innovate Apparel Manufacturing And Energize The City Of Baltimore
by Simon Ogus
Under Armour has never been a company that follows the conventional wisdom and last month's opening of the "The Lighthouse" further proves that point. The 20 year old company that set out to take on apparel giants Nike, Reebok and Adidas, amongst others, has always taken the road less traveled and has made it part of their mission to consider challenges in a different way.
Yahoo! Style
Michael Costello: The Dark Horse Red Carpet Designer Beyoncé, Ciara, and Kim Kardashian Love
by Jihan Forbes
No major red carpet event is complete these days without at least one of Michael Costello's dresses. Costello's designs have been seen on the likes of Beyoncé, J.Lo, Queen Latifah, and Kim Kardashian -- to name just a few.
CNBC
Birkenstock quits Amazon in US after surge in counterfeit sales
by Ari Levy
Birkenstock is walking away from Amazon.com. Plagued by counterfeits and unauthorized selling on the online shopping site, the sandals company will no longer supply products to Amazon in the U.S. starting Jan. 1.
Quartz
The grand irony of Donald Trump using American Apparel for his campaign t-shirts
by Marc Bain
Donald Trump, the Republican candidate for the US presidency, has had a difficult time when it comes to clothing. Macy's dumped his signature line after he made inflammatory comments about Mexican immigrants to the US, and he has been lambasted for manufacturing his clothes overseas while decrying that same practice.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube.
"Dubai"
J Hus feat. Locz
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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