Some people want to travel with me in my whole working and intellectual process to create those collections, and some people just go to the store and say, 'I like this sweater,' and they don't care about the whole thing around it, and that's also fine. But I don't want to just make a nice sweater. I need intellectual guidelines to create that sweater in the first place.
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Hot Toys' replica of Marlon Brando's The Wild One costume. (Shaun Wong)
Tuesday - July 26, 2016 Tue - 07/26/16
rantnrave:// MARC BAIN's brief history of cool is brim-full of fascinating ideas, but the one that really gets me is the symbiotic relationship between coolness and consumerism. The idea of cool really takes off once it becomes possible to mass-produce and sell -- like a pair of blue jeans -- and requires an element of novelty that's only sustained by assuming new forms. Creators express themselves in their chosen media, stumbling upon cool along the way. Trend forecasters react, trying to recognize cool the moment it's born so it can be commodified. The rest of us chase it until we're exhausted or we realize that there's nothing lamer than trying hard to be cool. When it comes to cool, change is the only constant -- take it from GRANDPA SIMPSON... Two weeks ago, CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS grad TINA GORJANC made headlines with her 'Pure Skin' project -- a range of designs rendered in "leather" lab-grown using ALEXANDER MCQUEEN's DNA. Some have spoken out against the concept, but I've yet to come across an objection that runs deeper than, "It's a bit icky, innit?" GUARDIAN columnist JONATHAN JONES says he's disturbed by the idea of making art out of human bodies, but should lab-grown skin that's never been attached to a consciousness be treated the same way as "real" skin that has? PETA, on the other hand, is a-ok with GORJANC's project. Makes sense, since lab-grown leather means no animals are harmed during production. The production of meat, and therefore leather, has hugely deleterious effects on the natural environment. If lab-grown leather can minimize those impacts, consider me all the way on board... DRIES VAN NOTEN explains the importance of craftsmanship and draws a distinction between "making" and "producing"... At THE WASHINGTON POST, STEVEN OVERLY explores why humans often fear innovation -- reads nicely with GORJANC's project and DRIES' thoughts fresh in mind... French designer ANDRÉ COURRÈGES left his mark on the 20th century by helping to popularize -- and possibly inventing -- the mini-skirt. He passed away earlier this year, and his ideas have had an impact on this century, too -- he worked with MINOLTA to design the first selfie stick in 1984.
- Adam Wray, curator
too cool for school
Quartz
The neuroscience of 'cool'
by Marc Bain
In the early 2000s, a major shift happened in the way people dress. Flared and baggy jeans began to give way to a skinny, low-slung version, and by the end of the decade, it seemed everyone-including men-were squeezing into jeans so tight that doctors began issuing health warnings.
Buro 24/7
"This collection was my reaction to things that I feel are wrong" – Dries van Noten
by Eugene Rabkin
In conversation with the designer In an exclusive interview with Dries van Noten, just days after his Paris Menswear show, Eugene Rabkin unravels the ideas and inspirations that drive one of fashion's most successful. Buro 24/7 Middle East has the story...
Medium
Dollar Shave Club: How Michael Dubin Created A Massively Successful Company and Re-Defined CPG
by David Pakman
Success has many fathers, but in this case, there is only one.
Racked
The Rise and Fall of the Victoria’s Secret Catalog
by Casey Lewis
The lingerie giant is axing the nearly 40-year-old mailbox staple.
Business of Fashion
Victor Luis on Transforming Coach in Turbulent Times
by Imran Amed
BoF's Imran Amed talks to Coach CEO Victor Luis about the company's return to growth amidst wider market uncertainty.
The New York Times
The Class Politics of Decluttering
by Stephanie Land
Missoula, Mont. - SUDDENLY, decluttering is everywhere. It may have started with Marie Kondo and her mega-best seller, "The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up," but it has exploded into a mass movement, anchored in websites, seminars and - ironically - a small library's worth of books about how to get rid of stuff.
Vogue
Meet Vejas Kruszewski, the Design Wunderkind Who Won LVMH’s Special Prize
by Steff Yotka
There's something deeply familiar and yet palatably strange about Vejas, the nascent fashion collection helmed by 19-year-old Canadian designer Vejas Kruszewski. On paper, the items in Kruszewski's collections are quotidian; dark denim jeans, heather gray sweatshirts, shearling aviator jackets, and white shirtdresses are garments that seem simple enough to wrap your head around, until Kruszewski bends, binds, and reworks them into pieces that end up looking like kooky second cousins to the basics they were born from.
The Guardian
The Gucci wife and the hitman: fashion's darkest tale
by Abigail Haworth
When Patrizia Reggiani married Maurizio Gucci, they became one of Italy's first celebrity power couples. But then he left her - and she had him murdered. Abigail Haworth unpicks an incredible tale of glamour, sex, betrayal, death and prison in the dizzying world of high fashion
BuzzFeed
Meet The Workers Who Sewed Donald Trump Clothing For A Few Dollars A Day
by Karla Zabludovsky and Daniel Wagner
Employees at a textile factory that made Trump shirts report dangerous, abusive conditions -- harsh even for Honduras.
Glossy
How retailers like Michael Kors are turning Instagram into customer-loyalty vehicles
by Hilary Milnes
Michael Kors' #InstaKors feed is meant to make it easy for customers to shop what they see on the brand's Instagram account. With added benefits for engaged consumers, like special promotions and early access to products, the company believes it's a combined social shopping tool and social loyalty program.
2 legit 2 quit
Bloomberg
The Mall of the Future Will Offer Dinner, Movies, and a Colonoscopy
by Patrick Clark
But not in that order. E-commerce is driving out retailers, and boomers are aging--so here come the doctors.
Jenkem Magazine
The Most Embarrassing Fashion Rip Offs Of Skateboarding
by Alexis Castro
For whatever reason, the fashion industry is all in on skating right now.
creativepool.com
Pokémon Go Phenomenon: How advertisers and brands are getting involved
by Benjamin Hiorns
Location-based marketing is at something of a tipping point right now where it could honestly go either way, but the outrageous success of the recently released Pokémon Go AR smartphone game seems to suggest it could be about to really kick off in earnest.
Fashionista
Hey, Quick Question: What's With All These Disney Fashion Collaborations?
by Karina Hoshikawa
Fashion's latest chapter of high-low collaborations are all about luxury brands embracing youth culture.
W Magazine
Fashion's Hottest Designer Demna Gvasalia Makes a Triumphant Return to Trieste, Italy
by Rebecca Voight
The Vetements and Balenciaga creative director won a prize at the fashion festival over a decade ago--now he’s come back as a juror.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube.
"Cool"
Pylon
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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