When we’d shoot an ad campaign, we used to shoot for the world, and then we’d shoot a Middle East version because there are certain rules, like a man can’t touch a woman and everyone has to be clothed. But now we shoot three versions: We shoot the world version, the conservative version, and the Middle East version. The conservative version is for America.
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It's fashion week somewhere—currently, Copenhagen. Henrik Vibskov's spring 2018.
(Yuliya Christensen/Getty Images)
Monday - August 14, 2017 Mon - 08/14/17
rantnrave:// This weekend, we saw what unhooded white supremacists look like in 2017. By light of tiki torch, unmemorable men in polo shirts and plaid button-ups with tidy haircuts put a 21st century face to humankind’s oldest, ugliest affliction: Hate. “They could be from anywhere,” wrote CHRIS GAYOMALI for GQ, “and wouldn’t look out of place foisting martini shakers in Portland, or Nashville, or Brooklyn.” Racists of all magnitudes walk among us and very few of them—surprise!— have swastika tattoos by which we can identify them. Like Gayomali, I’m shocked by the group’s brazen nonchalance: These monsters do not fear the consequence of being identified (compare this to the sheets KKK members cower under) and that’s on all of us. As a society, we all need to be reprimanding hate in its smallest forms so that it does not have the chance to blossom into what we saw in CHARLOTTESVILLE… In more progressive news, ROBIN GIVHAN has an excellent survey of CHELSEA MANNING’S relatively un-glam VOGUE shoot. With unfussy hair and makeup and a swimsuit that’s more everywoman flattering than body flaunting, Manning and Vogue are broadening the image of transgender women in pop culture—definitely give this one a read… Will WALMART scoop up BIRCHBOX? If so, it will mark the fifth digital-first brand acquisition by the retailer since MARC LORE was appointed head of e-comm last fall (Lore came into the fold by way of JET.COM, which he founded in 2014 and sold to Walmart in 2016 for $3B cash and $300M in stock). The idea is to get in with coastal millennials with money to spend—Walmart already has the middle of the country, families, and the budget-conscious on lock, but this millennial demo is spending all that money with AMAZON and Walmart wants a piece of the commerce pie. GLOSSY offers a deeper look at what the purchase could mean for both Walmart and Birchbox and, while you’re at it, check out this BUSINESS INSIDER piece from earlier in the month explaining how Amazon is the new Walmart: “a symbol for everything wrong with big business.”
- Nicola Fumo, guest curator
current location
GQ
We Already Knew the Face of White Supremacy
by Chris Gayomali
These men aren't an outlier. They are as much Americans as anyone else.
The Washington Post
Chelsea Manning doesn’t look glamorous in Vogue. And that’s great.
by Robin Givhan
Chelsea Manning has her fashion coming out in the pages of Vogue but without a lot of fashion fanfare.
Fashionista
Why Hospitality and Fashion Are More Intertwined Now Than Ever Before
by Maria Bobila
Hint: It has to do with retail -- and a few other factors, too.
The Guardian
‘My favourite salad is books’ – why the French love badly translated slogan T-shirts
by Morwenna Ferrier
From tees reading ‘loverdose’ and ‘You’re too close’ to the rather more obscure ‘a little pinch of bananas’, shirts with phrases seemingly translated on Babel Fish are proving un succès in France
AlterNet
7 Dirty Denim Brands Destroying the Environment: Exporting Their Pollution Kills Thousands
by Todd Paglia
Air pollution from the world's largest denim companies is destructive to the people of China. When it comes to environmental destruction, it’s pretty easy to point the finger at a coal mine or fracking well. And you’d be right; the energy industry has a disgraceful track record of exploiting the planet. But sometimes, environmental misdeeds lurk in unexpected places. Like in your pants.
HISTORY.com
History of Summer: The Tan and the Bikini
Every summer, people around the world hit the beach to swim, relax, and soak up the sun, and many of them are wearing tiny two-piece swimsuits. But when did getting a tan become a thing? And how did the bikini become so many women's swimsuit of choice?
The Business of Fashion
How m0851 Quietly Built a $25 Million Business
by Hayley Phelan
The Montreal-based leather goods brand m0851, which found success on its own terms with a commitment to detail, responsible growth and gut instinct, is courting investors.
Dezeen
My costumes are part of a 'quiet uprising' among women, says 'Handmaid's Tale' designer
by Alice Morby
In an exclusive interview with Dezeen, costume designer Ane Crabtree talks about her work on dystopian TV show "The Handmaid's Tale," and how the blood red capes she created have become a symbol of protest among women.
BBC
The secret supplier to the world's top designers
by Katie Hope
How a small town in southern Spain has become the place where top brands source their leather goods.
The New York Times
To Fit Into Silicon Valley, Wear These Wool Shoes
by Nellie Bowles
Silicon Valley has gone through many shoe style trends, including Crocs and Vibrams. Now it’s Allbirds, the wool shoe that techies love to wear.
destination
The Cut
After Years of Selling Sex, Tom Ford Is Seeking Emotion
by Amy Larocca
Lately he’s feeling more romantic and maybe even a little nostalgic.
Glossy
What the Walmart acquisition of Birchbox could mean
by Jessica Schiffer
It would be the retailer’s fifth acquisition of a digital-first brand since Marc Lore joined as head of e-commerce last fall. Though neither brand would confirm, similar rumors regarding the likes of Bonobos and Modcloth all eventually came to fruition.
Medium
The Virtual Revolution of Retail
by Crystal Garcia
The velocity of change in retail over the past few years, has forced retailers to get with the program or fall far behind. As new technologies continue to evolve, they create new marketing opportunities to target consumers. The online shopping revolution is a great example of this.
Sourcing Journal Online
In Pursuit of the Suit: How Swim Brands Are Solving Fit For Online Shoppers
Online swim brands like X Swimwear, Surania and Mazu Swim are turning to styling services, apps and customization to help consumers remedy their fit issues.
Fortune Magazine
How Macy's Plans to Fix Its Beauty Products Business
by Phil Wahba
Macy's is trying to revive its beauty business to win investors back.
The Telegraph
Can New Look's fall out of fashion be fixed?
by Ashley Armstrong
When New Look founder Tom Singh opened the doors of his first shop in Taunton in 1969, he did so with a rag-trader’s self-confidence in picking best sellers.
The Outline
The Instagram watchdog that calls out fashion counterfeits
by Jeff Ihaza
Accounts like @yeezybusta are playing a key role in the online resale market.
Racked
How Washing Your Hair Could Help You Survive a Nuclear Blast
by Tracy E. Robey
When taking a post-blast decontamination shower, skip the conditioner.
Vogue
Charting the Rise of Supreme, From Cult Skate Shop to Fashion Superpower
by Robert Sullivan
The fiercely independent New York City label is beloved by skaters and downtown scenesters-and the fashion world has lined up to take notice.
FASHION magazine
The Bootleg Fashion Trend Has Officially Reached Fever Pitch
by Nancy Won
Designers are blurring the boundaries.
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"Little Things"
Sunni (Colón)
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