We dress to join groups, and to escape other groups and the past; we also dress dissociatively, to mark us off from types we want not to be mistaken for. | | | | | By server light, 2012. (Tristan Schmurr) | | | | | | “We dress to join groups, and to escape other groups and the past; we also dress dissociatively, to mark us off from types we want not to be mistaken for.”
| - | John Harvey, from Men in Black |
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| | rantnrave:// Color. Steeped in it. Symbolism, PANTONE trends (or hijacks, according to this dude). JOHN HARVEY wrote the book (actually, 2 books) on BLACK, color of denial and loss, religious conviction, mourning, bourgeois sobriety, power. Color of the DUKE OF BURGUNDY and CHARLES V, GABRIELLE CHANEL and YOHJI YAMAMOTO. “Conspicuously unflashy.” Presence/absence. GOOGLE released PIXEL with some, er, interpretive color names (with a lil’ help from DOGE—so phone, thx DOGE!). There’s the technical production of color: dyestuffs, kodachrome, spot colors, RGB, dozens of digital color profiles. Getting the shade of a lipstick *just right,* in original chromes by HORST P. HORST—AFK. There’s subjective perception of color, lest we forget #THEDRESS. GREEN's drab tone in the military (and beyond) is the subject of this RETRO READ... PARK CHAN-WOOK weekend just wrapped at METROGRAPH, and in OLD DAYS, the lighting designer of OLDBOY discussed green as the color filmmakers try hardest to eradicate on film, which is exactly why he (+ the cinematographer + director) wanted to use it. They did, so artfully, in Oldboy. Is this HYEIN SO collection inspired by the VENGEANCE TRILOGY? Not a peep about it in brand coverage. Don’t see how it couldn’t be… Candy-colored server racks by KARL LAGERFELD at CHANEL aka #DATACENTERCHANEL. Are we imagining ourselves, more and more, as data? How do we project ourselves in digital environments? We’d be fools to say this is deterministic, yet it’s not hard to imagine: transcending borders and flattening all culture, with the aid of digital tools (and a disregard for provenance), has contributed to the breakdown of categories across culture. Found equally in the work of LAGERFELDxCHANEL and VIRGIL ABLOH. Oh, and check it: CHARLES BABBAGE had a JACQUARD portrait in his house. Presence/absence. 2016. BERGDORF ready for HYPEBEASTS. Vive la différence?! 01001011011000010111001001101100 | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Fifth Avenue department store Bergdorf Goodman is selling Kith and Fenty Puma by Rihanna. Is it becoming a new hub for streetwear? | | |
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| The “Data Center Chanel” theme saw a supercomputer act as the backdrop to Chanel's SS17 show, in doing so arguably nodding to its future e-commerce moves. | | |
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| Karl Lagerfeld reimagines techie-grunge with hoodie coatigans and light up handbags. | | |
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| Inventor Charles Babbage drew inspiration from an unusual source for his analytical engine. | | |
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| Creative director Humberto Leon on how the brand's head-turning month with Spike Jonze, Carrie Brownstein, and more reflects its vision. | | |
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| In this edition of Confessions, in which we grant anonymity in exchange for honesty, an employee on the design side of an American luxury fashion house shares the frustrations of working for a brand that isn’t modernizing. | | |
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| Textile workers from Bangladesh to Turkey are using cellphones to report child labor, delayed wages and trafficking -- a trend rights groups say shows the promise of technology in tackling abuses in the garment industry. | | |
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| He’s Kane and he’s able. A decade in, we speak to the Scottish designer about his ever evolving work and the curiosity that keeps driving him on. | | |
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| Get yourself to 10 Rue de la Paix in a hurry. | | |
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| “Colors” is a column in which a writer responds to a specific color assigned by the editors of Cabinet. | | |
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| The century-old faces that would become America, in color. | | |
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| The lives of everyday Americans shine at National Museum of African American History and Culture. | | |
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| When 24-year-old author and entrepreneur Stacey Ferreira dropped out of NYU last year to participate in the Thiel Fellowship, the grant program launched by PayPal cofounder Peter Thiel, friends were puzzled by the move. For some, she recalls, the response was "you're crazy!" | | |
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| Despite the area’s chaos, or perhaps because of it, creativity thrives in this Middle Eastern metropolis. | | |
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| Ahead of its national release, we decode Ford's sublime second feature -- a dark, all-consuming thriller called "Nocturnal Animals." | | |
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| Now on her third collection for her well-received eponymous line, the China-born Claudia Li grew up in New Zealand and Singapore before going on to study at Central Saint Martins in London and then to take an MA in fashion at Parsons School of Design, New York. Li was talent-scouted by Jonathan Anderson. | | |
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| © Copyright 2016, The REDEF Group |
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