If I may so express myself: for one tailor who understands, copies, and improves upon nature, I would give three classic sculptors.
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Hermès silk ties, 2005. (Kent Wang)
Friday - October 07, 2016 Fri - 10/07/16
rantnrave:// Accelerators. Hubs. Labs. Incubators. Incubees. There’s creative ferment abubble inside centers all over our fair GOTHAM. It’s exciting to see these initiatives supported at local, gubernatorial, national, and international levels. Here’s a quick inventory for NYC (get ready for CAPSLOCK): BF+DA, GARMENT DISTRICT ALLIANCE, MANUFACTURE NY, MADE IN NY, NEW INC, NEW LAB, NEW YORK FASHION TECH LAB, LAWRENCE LENIHAN’s RESONANCE, TEXTILE ARTS CENTER. Obvs, the CFDA. Other than the last-mentioned, it would be great to see further sustained and thorough coverage of what’s happening inside these places, other than launch press. There’s also the UN-backed ETHICAL FASHION INITIATIVE and FASHION4DEVELOPMENT. Did I miss anyone? Is NYC not a great place to just try really hard at something, maybe vitalize the urban landscape, BRUTALISM notwithstanding? These places offer the potential for community and support and an ethos of experimentation in fashion, design, production. How are the incubees doing? Would love to see how NYC compares to places like LONDON and PARIS, LOS ANGELES, CHICAGO, MIAMI, SHANGHAI… SPENCER WOODMAN dropped today’s must-read on us over at RACKED. The author went in search of the origins of DONALD J. TRUMP’s licensed ties, and the journey lead him from a faceless RN number on the reverse side of a tie to a PVH “Rolodex,” and onward to individuals in SHENGZHOU, CHINA… GRAILED debuted THE DROP today. I’d love to see, in milliseconds or machine time, how swiftly those fashion history pieces alighted the online cart at checkout. No doubt, there are some very happy shoppers out there tonight. Are there individuals with E-SPORTS-level online checkout tactics? Will check REDDIT later for answers. My favorite thing RN: sneakers x keyboards. Not separately, together… A lil’ scarf refresh, gratis from HERMÈSFall basics… Piece out this weekend, shoppers. See you at the mall.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
piecework / piecemeal
Racked
MUST READ: Going Inside Trump’s Chinese Tie Factories
by Spencer Woodman
A visit to the Chinese factories that made Donald Trump’s clothing brand possible.
032c
An Interview with Kvadrat CEO Anders Byriel
by Thom Bettridge
Kvadrat CEO Ander Byriel discusses his collaborations with Raf Simons, sustainability, and the future of texture.
Port Magazine
The Gap Generation
by Rebecca Arnold
Rebecca Arnold traces Gap’s heritage back to 1960s America - a time and place defined by social unrest, liberal politics and the birth of pop culture
i-D Magazine
shanghai and hong kong, straight up!
i-D hit the streets in China’s most international cities to find out where the cool kids hang out, what they disagree with their parents’ generation about, and what freedom means under the rule of the Chinese government.
The New York Times
Both Sides of a Fashion Eccentric
by Jon Caramanica and Katherine Bernard
Our critics tag-team shop at the new Rick Owens new store, where all of fashion’s binaries are urgently blurred.
The Hairpin
Chic Fall Basics
by Kelly Conaboy
Your guide for fall.
Stylus
Inclusive Luxe: Hermès Scarf Tune-Up
by Stefanie Dorfer
In preparation for the 80th anniversary of its scarf division La Maison des Carrés in 2017, Hermès has already begun paying homage to its most iconic product -- the printed silk scarf. A series of retro-style laundry pop-ups will include a free scarf-refreshing service, regardless of the brand.
Luxury Daily
Dior, Tesla break into top 100 brand rankings for first time
by Sarah Jones
On average, luxury brands’ value rose 10 percent this year, as a number of houses hit the reset button, according to Interbrand’s Top Best Global Brands 2016 list.
Motherboard
In a Utopian Future, What Counts as Luxury?
by Ben Sullivan
We asked some science fiction authors to define luxury in a utopia.
WGSN
From Missy to Juniors: A look at shifting retail market terminology in the US
by Carlene Thomas Bailey
Is the use of archaic and outdated terminology hindering the success of key womenswear retail categories?
peace
High Snobiety
All of Disney's Fashion Collaborations: High Fashion Designers & Streetwear
by Alec Banks
Disney has collaborated with a number of prominent fashion brands over the years. We explore the expansive list which spans high fashion to streetwear.
GQ
Walt "Clyde" Frazier Is Still the NBA's Greatest Style God, and He Knows It
by Jake Woolf
The two-time NBA champ and New York City icon talks custom suits, why his Puma sneakers have endured for forty years, and who he thinks is actually stylish in the league today.
Vogue
C’est Fini! Vogue.com Editors Weigh In on Paris Fashion Week
by Nicole Phelps, Sally Singer, Sarah Mower...
Vogue.com’s Sally Singer, Nicole Phelps, Sarah Mower, and Chioma Nnadi discuss Paris’s best shows.
The New York Times
At Paris Fashion Week, a Season of Big Changes
by Alexander Fury
From designer debuts, much-anticipated returns -- and even a shocking departure -- the spring/summer 2017 shows were all about the new.
The Washington Post
Breezy caftans, ruffled gowns: After some bleak times, fashion is ready to make you smile
by Robin Givhan
Joy comes in a jolt, a sudden flush of pleasure. It may be momentary, but it's real. This is the business of fashion.
New York Magazine
Finally, Some Direction From the Shows
by Cathy Horyn
Nicolas Ghesquière presented a collection for Louis Vuitton that drew on his own history of design as it stepped smartly toward the near future.
Europeana Fashion Tumblr
Fashion from the Dutch cotton industry in 1958
From 1958: the young Dutch fashion designer Cees Terleth shows some of his designs. Also, a wedding gown made from cotton by Dick Holthaus.
Tiny Letter
Fashion!
by Emily Gould
Emily Gould on fashioning her past and present self.
The New York Times
Brutalism Is Back
by Nikil Saval
The complicated revival of the simply honest brand of architecture.
Lessons from the Screenplay
'Moonrise Kingdom -- Where Story Meets Style'
by Michael Tucker
In "Moonrise Kingdom," Wes Anderson’s style is the perfect match for the story. He uses details to create a believable world, establishes the rules of this fantastical story, and creates a tone that forms a connection between the audience and the characters of Suzy and Sam.
Business of Fashion
Tim's Take: Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2017
by Tim Blanks
Tim Blanks talks to Nicolas Ghesquière to decode the creative thinking behind Louis Vuitton's latest collection.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
with English subtitles.
"The Blue Hearts"
リンダリンダ (Linda Linda)
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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