To call a fashion wearable is the kiss of death. No new fashion worth its salt is ever wearable.
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A small denim collection from a summer fashion illustration class, watercolor, 2011. (Tuyen Tran)
Monday - October 10, 2016 Mon - 10/10/16
rantnrave:// More debate on diversity in fashion, on the runway and in the front row. How much do we look to fashion for other-worldly escape, and how much for a reflection of "ourselves," whatever that might mean? Check out this fantastic panel for some provocation, humor, and frank discussion from people who trade on appearances: “What does beauty look like now?” from the FASHION CULTURE DESIGN UNCONFERENCE. Thanks to SIMON COLLINS for bringing together IVAN BART (president of IMG MODELS), MICKEY BOARDMAN (editorial director at PAPER MAGAZINE), ASHLEY GRAHAM (model), JAMES SCULLY (casting director), GILLEON SMITH (casting director), and ALEK WEK (model) in JUNE. Refreshingly candid, and one of the most memorable panels of that day IMHO… In American retail odysseys, one store closes after 128 years, and a national chain gets another chance. SAKS JANDEL, founded in 1888 and independently owned, will shut its doors at the end of 2016. ROBIN GIVHAN recounts the heritage of the store, which served the wardrobe of many a FLOTUS, lawyer, and philanthropist over the years. ICYMI, ASHLEY STEWART, founded in 1991, has come a long way from two bankruptcies. With the help of CEO JAMES RHEE, the company is invigorating its business by embracing digital and riding a cultural wave. Read for Rhee's powerful image of his mother and how it reminded him of Ashley Stewart's customers… The OPUS ANGLICANUM exhibition at the V&A gets up close with the history of English embroidery. Zoom in on this… Weekend reactions… HEDI wants to settle this initials thing, once and for TWITTER (it’s not over ’til—epic Tweet storm and further litigation)… Something post-FRIEZE
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
equilibrium
The Washington Post
How a plus-size clothing label dug out of bankruptcy: Body pride, diversity and Instagram
by Robin Givhan
Ashley Stewart began as a brand catering to African American women. Three years after backruptcy, its commitment to diversity brings white shoppers to its online store and $20 million annually in profits.
ELLE
Amalia Ulman Is the First Great Instagram Artist
by Molly Langmuir
She has convinced her followers she is a pretty-in-pink naïf, an escort, an unhinged ex, an office drone, and, most recently, an expectant mother. None of it is real.
Quartz
New research finds sweatshops may be a necessary evil in the development of economies
by Michael J. Coren
"We shouldn’t sugar coat it.”
The Washington Post
Saks Jandel, a legendary Washington boutique, will close after 128 years
by Robin Givhan
"It's very emotional for me," said Peter Marx, the fourth generation to run the Chevy Chase institution that dressed D.C.'s elite.
Victoria and Albert Museum
Opus Anglicanum: Masterpieces of English Medieval Embroidery - The Steeple Aston Cope
The Steeple Aston Cope, dating to around the 1330s, is one of the most incredible surviving examples of English medieval embroidery. Discover how the fabric of this English medieval embroidery has been altered, ensuring its survival over centuries.
WGSN
eXkite Turns Kites Into Sustainable Outerwear
by Jian DeLeon
Ex-pro kiter Renzo Mancini turns retired kites into extremely weatherproof (and extremely wearable) jackets.
Levi Strauss
Blue from Peru: Trekking the Ancient American Origins of Blue Jeans
by Tracy Panek
LS&Co. Historian, Tracey Panek discovers ancient indigo dyeing techniques during a recent trip to Peru.
Triple Canopy
A Note on Vanitas by Lucy Ives
by Lucy Ives
Does death still mark life as the “vanity of all vanities,” if also a lucrative avenue for research and commerce? On finitude and transcendence.
Backchannel
How Artsy-Crafty Makers Jilted Jeff Bezos
by Roni Jacobson
Amazon launched Handmade to lure artisans, a direct challenge to Etsy. Wooing them was not so easy.
Forbes
Why Retail Price Reductions Are The Biggest Challenge For The Luxury Watch Industry Today
by Ariel Adams
Since the early 2000s, the luxury watch industry has consistently increased prices regularly, almost like clockwork, and not only because of demanding shareholders and aggressive revenue expectations by corporate owners.
inter alia
The New York Times
W.N.B.A. Stars Try to Move Up to Fashion’s Front Row
by Alex Williams
Why hasn’t a female LeBron James - a star of the fashion tents as well as the hardwood - emerged from the W.N.B.A.?
High Snobiety
Balenciaga's SS17 Show Still Fell Short on Diversity
by Stephanie Smith-Strickland
After Demna Gvasalia made his Balenciaga debut many critics commented on the lack of model diversity. This season, the brand improved, but only slightly.
Wired UK
Inside adidas' Future Lab
Adidas is designing tomorrow's soccer shoe in its secret lab.
AnOther
How to Live Life Like Karl Lagerfeld
by Susannah Frankel
Having spent a year with the renowned designer, Susannah Frankel is better positioned than most to reveal what one can, and ought to, learn from the master.
GQ
How a Silicon Valley-Funded App That Tracks Yeezy and Supreme Is Shaking Up E-Commerce
by Samuel Hine
Restocks started as a clever way to cop Supreme-now it hopes to change the way people shop.
Lapham’s Quarterly
RETRO READ: A Cheap Coat Makes a Cheap Man
by Thorstein Veblen
Thorstein Veblen explains honorific waste.
The New York Times
RETRO READ: Scruffy Is Badge of Pride, but Some Physicists Long for Cool
by Malcolm W. Browne
Malcolm W Browne notes that the impoverished look of many physicists, particularly young ones, is not merely an affectation, but reflects fact that good jobs in physics are few. Some physicists are dismayed at their colleagues' appearance, and express desire that they start to dress in style of influential citizens.
Vogue
The Top 10 Collections of Spring 2017
by Nicole Phelps
From Hood By Air in New York to Louis Vuitton in Paris, find out which collections made Vogue.com’s top 10 list.
Dazed Digital
The raunchy hilarity of Ireland's queer club flyers
by Trey Taylor
The Irish Queer Archive has lent an extensive collection of d***s and b***s that will be on display at Dublin exhibition Pilly Willy.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube
"Sibookya"
Princess Amirah
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