In the luxury sector people are increasingly concerned not only by the environmental side, but by the social side. They want to know about raw materials and production methods, so they’re becoming more aware. | | | | | Detail from “La Mode,” an illustration from J.J. Grandville’s Un Autre Monde, 1844. (Boston Public Library) | | | | |  | “In the luxury sector people are increasingly concerned not only by the environmental side, but by the social side. They want to know about raw materials and production methods, so they’re becoming more aware.”
| - | Marie-Claire Daveu, chief sustainability officer, Kering |
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| | rantnrave:// >>>>>>> Set your smartphones to stun, b/c REDEF's got a *New Site™* (!) (!!) New UI, easier sharing, ability to follow and watch what your friends are reading, charts, originals, sets, social and reader app sync, full newsletter and account management, easier onboarding and so much more. Check it… FRANCE vs. AMERICA: aesthetics, taste, style, commerce, dreams. Industrial vs. artisanal. See CAROLINE EVANS for a marvelous breakdown of the commercial realities of haute couture in the early twentieth century. Department store buyers and garmentos the world over would check in to buy licensed and certified garments to copy—toiles, sketches, you know the deal. Unsanctioned copying was rampant despite some, let's say, *stringent* security measures. Expert copyists would will themselves into near-perfect visual memory or hone their sketching skills to what appeared to be a few lightly dusted swipes on a napkin, all in pursuit of #couture. DEMNA hails from neither city, is inserting American “street” into a venerated house of Parisian (formerly) couture. YSL pioneered the idea (is an OG), and it got him ousted from DIOR. Some people were *not amused* with the idea of an “haute couture biker jacket” in 1960, even if it was alligator and mink. Today we’re okay with it; the YSL label was born (thx PIERRE) to be endlessly revered, written about, and copied. And parodied. Will the Franco/American dialectic ever be exhausted? Has it already been? Both sides of the ATLANTIC have been tapping a kind of exoticism about the other for some time now. American designer MARY PING unveiled a performance of artisanal craft in Paris and it's mentioned that NYC has a "younger sibling" complex. Is this self-fulfilling because we keep framing the debate along these two poles? It drives to the heart of a central issue: how we define fashion. Do all roads lead to Paris, or the internet?… Remember CONDÉNET? The original STYLE.COM partnered with NEIMAN MARCUS for e-commerce, and it has experimented in the space before—granted, those were frontier days for the world wide web. Wild dayz. So many possibilities. Remember LVMH’s ELUXURY? If you’ve ordered from SHOPBAZAAR let me know... In fashion the two most urgent dialogues surrounding ethics are sustainability x diversity. Let's not make it a trend... More vault sales, this time it’s HELMUT LANG... A brand inspired by a hardworking father… Pro move. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | Dazed Digital |
| Kering’s Chief Sustainability Officer opens up about innovation, attitudes, and why luxury fashion must lead the charge for a more ethical industry | | |
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 | i-D Magazine |
| Robert Fairer spent 17 years documenting the beauty and chaos backstage at Alexander McQueen’s fashion shows. As he opens up his archives in a new book, we spoke to the photographer about the designer who defined British fashion. | | |
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 | Business of Fashion |
| It’s been just over a month since the launch of Condé Nast’s new e-commerce venture. Is it working? BoF’s Vikram Alexei Kansara sits down with Franck Zayan, president of Style.com, to investigate. | | |
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 | The Washington Post |
| First lady Michelle Obama chose an Italian designer who oozes Hollywood sex appeal. | | |
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 | The New York Times |
| The first lady’s choices, through eight years in the White House, have changed expectations about the role of dress at ceremonial occasions. | | |
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 | Glossy |
| The fashion industry’s lack of diversity isn’t just on the runway. | | |
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 | Quartz |
| Princess Di had 1,000 Catherine Walker outfits. | | |
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 | ELLE |
| Photographer Tyler Joe looks back on his 8,000-mile, 30-day adventure through last season's shows in New York, Paris, London, and Milan. | | |
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| i-D Magazine |
| In one of his most poignant collections to date, Rick Owens has reconnected with the fundamental values of his craft. | | |
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 | The Fashion Law |
| A legal perspective on the ongoing phenomenon of parodies. | | |
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 | WSJ |
| Yves Saint Laurent’s impact on the clothes women wear today will be showcased in new museum exhibits; from ‘Le Smoking’ to the pea coat. | | |
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 | The Daily Beast |
| The Nobel winner has changed musical styles the way some men change ties, and he’s changed his look almost as often, from folkie to hipster to neo-Dickensian baroque. | | |
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 | Couturesque |
| How geek culture became chic culture. | | |
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 | ADWEEK |
| Nordstrom explains its targeted campaign. | | |
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 | Mpora |
| As Vans celebrates 50 years, we look at how a cheap canvas shoe managed to sell skate culture for big bucks without losing any of its credibility | | |
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 | The Guardian |
| In an increasingly digital world, people are still willing to spend huge amounts on analogue timepieces. The question is, why? | | |
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 | WGSN |
| The prolific Japanese journalist, photographer, and expert in practically all things vintage menswear talks about the unifying factor that keeps brands relevant for decades—sometimes centuries. | | |
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 | Vogue |
| Ahead of the third and final presidential debate, we’re looking back on Hillary Clinton’s best style moments, from college to 2016. | | |
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 | Sourcing Journal Online |
| Primark beat five other shortlisted entries to take home the nod for “Best Contribution to Corporate Responsibility” for its sustainable cotton program. | | |
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| The New York Times |
| A handful of “beauty boys” have primped and preened their way into the female-centric world of Instagram and YouTube makeup artistry -- and the cosmetics industry wants in. | | |
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 | via YouTube |
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