I am designing for my generation, but in Japan people are very much seeking the old way of life again. Sexual differentiation in clothing is more important. My major customers there are still the university students. My generation isn't ready for me yet. They think Yohji is not fashionable enough for them. They will see. | | | | Uphill. Swiss Alps, Mademoiselle 1963.
(George Barkentin/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images) | | | | | | “I am designing for my generation, but in Japan people are very much seeking the old way of life again. Sexual differentiation in clothing is more important. My major customers there are still the university students. My generation isn't ready for me yet. They think Yohji is not fashionable enough for them. They will see.”
|
| |
| | rantnrave:// There might be a new shoe emoji coming to your screens. FLORIE HUTCHISON, a publicist, and JENNIFER 8 LEE, vice-chair of the EMOJI SUBCOMITTEE and a co-founder of EMOJINATION, worked together to propose a flat shoe emoji (as opposed to existing high-heeled versions) in the next round of approvals by the UNICODE CONSORTIUM. Is a shoe inspired by ballet pointe shoes less controversial than a red high heel? High heels have a varied history when it comes to gender. It'd be great if we could all embrace the fact that men, women, and people of all gender IDs wear heels and that there are a wide range of identities associated with wearing them, but I appreciate the underlying motivation here. There's no doubt high heels invite the same kind of oversimplified views once reserved for "feminized" garments such as corsets (thankfully there are books like this one). And there are many ways to project identity and cultural values onto a shoe. The potential addition of a ballet flat to the emoji lexicon adds options. It's another symbolic shorthand that can be read in a variety of ways. Emoji spark conversations about representation and inclusivity, and that's not a bad thing. By nature, symbolic shorthands may never be inclusive enough. If you start asking fashion enthusiasts, I'm guessing we'd max out the Unicode specification in no time—on footwear alone. Who's down for the MARGIELA TABI emoji? Traditional tabi? Custom ENZO BONAFÉ? The list could go on and on. And on. Don't get us started. Sock booties. Dad sneakers. Platform CROCS. Espadrilles. Cowboy boots. Kitten heels. Bear slippers. Flip flops. GUCCI loafs... "Extremist" footwear... Reaction to the STITCH FIX IPO has been largely positive, with some well-considered analysis from BLOOMBERG and GLOSSY. What's the word on how the company is retaining customers (or, in conventional business speak, "customer retention")?... The LA TIMES examines HARVEY WEINSTEIN's ties to fashion. Over ten of the women who've come forward with accounts of sexual abuse worked as models... NOAH is collaborating on a special collection with TRACKSMITH. Drops Nov. 3... L'OREAL wants start-ups in PARIS... If the craft of fashion drew DANIEL DAY-LEWIS to leave acting in pursuit of dressmaking, all I want to know is which house he's going to take over as creative director (ha). A few more details are out on PAUL THOMAS ANDERSON's film PHANTOM THREAD, which stars Day-Lewis as a dressmaker in 1950s postwar LONDON. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
|
|
| As the much-anticipated documentary on the workings of one of fashion’s most elusive institutions premieres in Rotterdam, Susannah Frankel considers the power of anonymity in a world which rarely allows it. | | |
|
| The American photographer helped forge the way for female photographers, who are often overlooked in favour of the distinctively male giants of photography like Irving Penn and Richard Avedon. | | |
|
| Florie Hutchinson thought so. So she set to work creating one. | | |
|
| But a ballet flat icon might be the newest addition to your texting vocabulary. | | |
|
| The first in a series of casual interviews, Vetements and Balenciaga designer Demna Gvasalia opens up to Vogue’s fashion critic Anders Christian Madsen | | |
|
| Designer Hervé Pierre, whose gown was given to the Smithsonian today, has become the keeper of the first lady's aesthetic legacy. | | |
|
| Why aren't more brands doing these things? | | |
|
| Here’s what else Stitch Fix is sharing in its S-1 filing, and what’s written between the lines. | | |
|
| Anni Albers’ career spanned two continents, eight decades and half a dozen honorary doctorates. It negotiated personal commissions and worldwide mass-production; bridging the canvas, the loom and the printing press. | | |
|
| Her father owns a door manufacturing empire but Wendy Yu has become an astute investor in fashion platforms, a sought-after adviser for designers doing business in China, and is now gearing up for big things with Mary Katrantzou. | | |
|
| Apparel supply chains are evolving with on-demand manufacturing, data analytics and the digitization of inspections-and start-ups are leading the way. | | |
|
| It's profitable and free of drama and hype, like a grownup company. | | |
|
| The recent graduate spoke about his struggles on the MA, the inspiration behind his final collection, and showing at Helsinki Fashion Week. | | |
|
| "I like working with small tailoring shops, where the cutter’s name is on the door. You have a better chance of knowing who cut each of the garments that carries the shop’s label. One such cutter-run firm is Steven Hitchcock’s, who’s been in the tailoring business for over twenty-seven years. He left school at age sixteen to find a trade, first puttering around with the idea of becoming a mechanic (he even took some classes for it)." | | |
|
| Why I’m obsessed with Patagonia this fall. | | |
|
| After a decade designing clothes seen as extreme, she is now receiving the acclaim she deserves. Martine Rose talks to Alice Fisher about business, babies and Balenciaga. | | |
|
| “They don’t care about what is right and decent,” artist Boris Schmitz says of Zara. The 24-year old just discovered - via a handful of his Instagram followers - that the Spanish fast fashion giant is selling not one but two bags bearing three of his original sketches. | | |
|
| Gregory Chester of @oneofakind.archive has 5000 cult fashion pieces at his fingertips - this is @DazedFashion’s Instagram of the week. | | |
|
| Organizations are more likely to innovate and thrive when they unleash the potential of individuals and the power of self-organizing teams, says the online retailer’s CEO. | | |
|
| As the fashion designer prepares to show pieces from the past six years at the V&A, Ana Kinsella visits her in her south London studio to find out what’s in store. | | |
|
| © Copyright 2017, The REDEF Group |
|
|
