When a brand’s tailored clothing is composed of short jackets with skinny lapels that look like emasculating, disempowering, junior department boys’ clothing, it’s a red flag that the boss has little or no cultural or style reference that precedes the second Bush administration.
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At Leeds Night, 2010. Each piece was knitted by Leeds knitting group. (Paul Stevenson)
Wednesday - October 26, 2016 Wed - 10/26/16
rantnrave:// See what was worn on the streets around TBILISI FASHION WEEK… A growing SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK. Of interest: the consumer-facing element of some of its shows and its rivalry with CHINA FASHION WEEK, staged in BEIJING. Bored with people in the US of A saying “can you believe this x, y, z is taking place in a someplace-that’s-not-LA-or-NYC?” Snooze. Culture happens everywhere y’all. Remote villages, mid-size cities, townships, hamlets, they’re no joke. There are odes to fashion designers happening in SEATTLE, MIAMI, CHICAGO, PITTSBURGH, KENT. Some of those are traveling shows, some not. How about PHILLY's MAIN LINE? Check out this piece on 30 years of QVC… All sophistry is dead in view of this piece on KERRY JAMES MARSHALL, artist and staunch Chicagoan… Will have to steel myself before watching this one. With manufacturing labor in developing countries, I hope for a balanced look at the on-the-ground, economic realities of just *why* people are working in these factories. There can be macro reasons at the level of regulation, and there can be individual ones, like paying for the kids to go to school. THE LAST TRAIN HOME gives a hard look at some such realities, from the perspective of one intergenerational family… Another designer(s) exit… Love the work that PHYLLIS POSNICK has achieved in a long career, and now you can peruse some of it in book form. Yeah, that thing, you pulp wood chips, smooth it out into sheets in a huge factory (or by hand), then it makes this thing called paper and you put pix on it. Love books, am a collector. Still would love to see it as an ebook. Where are all the high-concept ebooks out there? Fashion should do this well… Something to see: ANTONIO MARRAS… ALAÏA gets a GIF for this piece—nice work W… JONATHAN ANDERSON, ALESSANDRO MICHELE, and CHRISTOPHER KANE going heavy at the BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL FASHION AWARDS. WWD debuted its own fashion accolades at the first annual WWD HONORS AWARDS.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
carbon black
The New York Times
Kerry James Marshall Is Shifting the Color of Art History
by Wyatt Mason
For more than 40 years, the Chicago-based artist has made it his mission to paint black figures into the canon.
George Hahn
The Absence of Mastery in the Era of the 'Instabrand'
by George Hahn
The best brands are built on a foundation of real mastery of craft. And they’re very rare.
New York Magazine
What You Actually Need to Start a Fashion Company
by Véronique Hyland
From seven designers who did it.
Main Line Today
QVC Celebrates 30 Years
by Tara Behan
November marks the anniversary of the company's first live broadcast.
i-D Magazine
new brand ifeoma combines the medieval and digital ages in its spring/summer 17 video
by Emily Manning
As we premiere its debut video, get to know Ifeoma's creative polymath designer, who approaches fashion through historical research and unexpected contemporary connections.
High Snobiety
Meanwhile, In Japan: Noteworthy Editorials, Brands and Gear
by Jian DeLeon
In our new monthly column, "Meanwhile, In Japan" we highlight stuff you might have missed from one of the most important countries in street culture.
Fashionista
How Deborah Lloyd Built Kate Spade New York into a Global Lifestyle Brand
by Tyler McCall
Surprisingly, it involves a start in menswear.
Racked
Meet the Woman Who Smashes Makeup For a Living
by Cheryl Wischhover
You’ve definitely seen her work, even if you don’t know who she is.
Business of Fashion
Building Great Bowery, Fashion's Super-Agency
by Lauren Sherman
Matthew Moneypenny talks to BoF about how he plans to make fashion industry talent as bankable as Hollywood actors.
GQ
The 16 Runway Shows That Changed Fashion Forever
by Noah Johnson
When the right designer puts the Zeitgeist in a choke hold with an inspired collection, 12 minutes of loud music, bright lights, and runway catwalking can send the culture careening in wild new directions. Here, we break down 16 fashion shows that changed the way we dress.
mars black
WGSN
Harvey Nichols X CIFF: Breaking the buying chain
by Katharine Smith
This retail collaboration is the first of its kind, shaking up the trade-to-retail-to-consumer model.
CFDA
Fashion and Diplomacy in State Department Focus
by Sophie Marx
Ambassadors and Senior Diplomats from over 180 countries gathered at the historic Hay-Adams House to attend Design by Diplomacy, a conversation and reception with leaders in the American and international fashion communities.
The Associated Press
Merged Yoox Net-A-Porter aims to be as mobile as shoppers
by Anne D'Innocenzio
The merged luxury group Yoox Net-A-Porter Group is aiming to be as mobile as its shoppers.Since the two joined last year, CEO Federico Marchetti has invested in new technology, added services like seaplanes to drop off rush orders to the Hamptons, and plans to expand same-day services in key markets like Dubai.
Business of Fashion
Shanghai Fashion Week Ups the Ante
by Queennie Yang and Kati Chitrakorn
China’s most globally-minded fashion week is becoming an umbrella event for new platforms clustering around Shanghai.
Lean Luxe
Six months into launch, ArtAndOnly is proving that $100,000 art can flourish online.
by M. Paul Munford
Competing amongst the likes of Paddle8 and Auctionata is no easy feat. ArtAndOnly has planted its flag in the online art market by cashing in on a different model.
Vogue
Hamish Bowles Explores YSL's Exquisite Archive and Childhood Fashion Sketches
by Hamish Bowles
Celebrating Saint Laurent in Seattle.
Racked
How to Make Your Fast Fashion Last
by Elana Fishman
Just because something isn’t designer doesn’t mean it’s disposable.
WGSN
Julie Zerbo and the rise of fashion law
by Richelle Cyrus
From design copycats to the legal implications of 3D printing, Julie covers the latest issues impacting the fashion world.
Business Insider
How the fleece vest became the unofficial uniform of Silicon Valley investors
by Melia Robinson
The fleece vest is the most quintessentially-VC item in an investor's wardrobe.
ELLE
Narciso Rodriguez Gets a Retrospective at Miami's Frost Museum
by Leah Melby Clinton
"I found myself looking anew at my own work."
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube
"Forbidden Colours"
David Sylvian & Ryuichi Sakamoto
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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