If you read some of the quotes and interviews from designers from the '20s and '30s, you’d think they were talking about today. ‘There are too many people,’ ‘there is not enough demand,’ ‘I’m trying to market my goods,’ ‘I can’t get the money from wholesalers for fabric,’ and ‘the department stores are giving me a hard time.’ | | | | | Rory Andrew, Fashion Technology, Team UK, The WorldSkills Competition 2011. (WorldSkills UK) | | | | |  | “If you read some of the quotes and interviews from designers from the '20s and '30s, you’d think they were talking about today. ‘There are too many people,’ ‘there is not enough demand,’ ‘I’m trying to market my goods,’ ‘I can’t get the money from wholesalers for fabric,’ and ‘the department stores are giving me a hard time.’”
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| | rantnrave:// That tenuous difference between inspiration and copying has been talked about a lot with regard to design. But what about aspects of culture that involve appearance and artifice? Great recap of SEOUL FASHION WEEK by EMILIA PETRARCA, who asks, “Is overt influence such a bad thing? Perhaps not.” That’s the thing about cultural imaginaries, whether it’s the people of SEOUL looking in on NYC or those in FRANCE looking in on CHINA during the eighteenth century (and beyond). When culture amplifies it becomes bigger than you. If you don’t want fans, maybe don't put stuff out there? EMPIRE of JAPAN tried that until the MEIJI (kinda). People cultivate what inspires them. Sure it’s hallucinatory to the OG, but that doesn’t mean it’s not valid… Legal implications can get tricky tho… Now about that bit on plastic surgery. Look no further than this excellent read by MAUREEN O’CONNOR from 2014. There’s oft an urge in AMERICA to measure everything against that great slab o’ culture that is THE WEST™ (not KANYE—on second thought, could be fun to take the argument there. Anyone up for it?), but that’s overly simplistic y’all. *Comparative* inquiry (s/o to all my comparative studies PhDs) doesn’t entail making a hardline assumption that one thing by necessity “copies” another. It’s wa-ay more nuanced than that and let’s give a shoutout to day-to-day experience over monolithic understandings for once… Think like an anthropologist… Some images of SÃO PAULO FASHION WEEK are here along with a brief CCTV video (#tip: watch in CHROME’s incognito mode if it doesn't load). See also the video on SHANGHAI (so many questions about that PIZZA HUT logo hovering above one runway)… With their heft, structure, and yes, aesthetic appeal, CHARLES JAMES gowns have been likened to sailing ships. Testimonials include the women who wore them. Archives take note: some legitimate fashion x technology is on display (in storage) in these custom conservation mounts for CHARLES JAMES gowns at the COSTUME INSTITUTE. They’re 3D scanned… ACNE ARCHIVE is now open until 9am ET Oct. 28, and RACKED peered into the vault. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | The Washington Post |
| Women in Power Here’s how fashion designers imagine a woman dressing when she’s in the Oval Office | | |
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 | W Magazine |
| In its seventh season, the shows in South Korea’s capital are only getting stronger. But the question remains: How will they stand out from the rest? | | |
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 | American Fashion Podcast |
| Fashion historian Patricia Mears is in the studio with us this week, talking about The Museum at FIT, and her perspective on the fashion business. | | |
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 | The Metropolitan Museum of Art |
| Intern Taylor Healy outlines The Costume Institute's process for creating custom storage forms to properly store the department's collection of gowns by Charles James. | | |
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 | Glossy |
| The customer is king. Except when it comes to fashion, according to "The New York Times’" fashion director and chief fashion critic, Vanessa Friedman. | | |
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 | The New York Times |
| The British Fashion Council’s awards were going to be different this year. But in one important way, they look very much the same. | | |
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 | Racked |
| How one sneakerhead went from Payless to the proud owner of one of the coolest collections out there. | | |
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| Glossy |
| It’s not just bitcoin. Fashion is starting to come around to the use of blockchain, the public ledger technology best known for underpinning bitcoin. | | |
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 | Engadget |
| The company's next holy grail may be the hardest to conquer. | | |
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| The New York Times |
| The tiny boutique on East 69th Street has been opened by Wagner Eleuteri, 28, a third-generation jeweler. | | |
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 | The Fashion Law |
| Foreign fashion designers, stylists, photographers, models, and others working professionally in the fashion industry may find themselves in a bind if they are offered work in the U.S. No matter their level of esteem within the industry, all international models need to obtain the proper type of visa in order to work in the U.S. -- even if just for New York Fashion Week. | | |
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 | WWD |
| An analysis of three-year’s worth of data showed the impact of marking down apparel. | | |
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 | The Daily Beast |
| David Casavant began collecting menswear as a teenager in Tennessee. Now his museum-worthy trove of recent trends is one of the biggest and finest in the world. | | |
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 | New York Magazine |
| Jeffrey Cirio dresses like no one else in ballet. | | |
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 | Bloomberg |
| Major brands have increased their use of so-called Better Cotton. | | |
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 | The Onion |
| and start getting short with people at work because the early sunset “affects his mood,” thus signaling the completion of his metamorphosis into Mr. Wintertime Asshole Man. | | |
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 | Vestoj |
| Deconstructing the D&G construction worker. | | |
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 | The Baffler |
| American politics is one vast crisis of semiotic overproduction: too much meaning is produced in any one moment for anyone to possibly consume. | | |
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 | Port Magazine |
| Emma McClendon, assistant curator at The Museum at FIT in New York looks back at the origins of blue jeans | | |
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| The New York Times |
| The photographer Inge Morath, who was also the wife of Arthur Miller, had an eye for style -- on the street and on film sets, at galas and on runways. | | |
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 | via YouTube |
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