He’s a touchstone, like [Cristòbal] Balenciaga. He really didn’t like to give interviews. He believed the clothes spoke. He worked. He had integrity, he had great humility. Sometimes that was misinterpreted as snobbism. No — there was a great intensity to his craft. He could see in three dimension.
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La Galana, Valdepeñas, Castille la Mancha, Spain, 2009. (Carmen Escobar Carrio)
Tuesday - November 01, 2016 Tue - 11/01/16
rantnrave:// JAMES GALANOS was once a kid from NEW JERSEY who took to the streets of NYC, watching people as they arrived at opening night parties. He dreamed of dressing them. Eventually he did. He had an unerring dedication to craft and quality, and he delighted industry and clients alike from 1951–1998. And he will be missed. If you have a VANITY FAIR from April 2007 lying around, read "When Galanos Spelled Glamour" by AMY FINE COLLINS… E-commerce companies that are big on service often absorb customs duties (FARFETCH, MATCHES FASHION, NET-A-PORTER) so as not to expose the customer to the messiness of international tariff and trade agreements. Customer relations might take the form of different actions in-store vs. online, but the principles remain the same. For the shopper, it’s about ease and making a connection. Service means watch, listen, and deliver. And that’s not deliver in the literal sense, i.e. drop the parcel in the box then forget it then (oops) surprise the client with a 31-page customs document, and a bill. For one example, there’s a REDDIT thread dedicated to the topic. Don’t even get REDEF CEO JASON HIRSCHORN started about END CLOTHING. In networked culture, there are plenty of benefits to having a dialogue with customers. Put another way: if you’re in business on the internet, don’t ignore the internet. Par example, H&M’s response time to a tweet from FASHION REVOLUTION’s #whomademyclothes campaign was 1 hour, 5 minutes. Does that give new meaning to the term *fast fashion*?... When recycling programs are implemented, what are the play-by-play steps in how the goods are “cycled” anew? What are the byproducts and what are the costs? Would be nice if all briefs include this info… Return to the macro: two perspectives on trade and the TPP, which have implications for fashion… If you’ve been following developments concerning Chinese communities in PRATO, there was a recent conference at the UNIVERSITY OF NEW HAVEN TUSCANY campusMillennials should be sunning in all this attention. It won’t be long before GEN Z’s on the uptake. Oh wait… A boutique opens inside the MONTREAL FASHION MUSEUM.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
sensed
The New York Times
Remembering the "master craftsman," Fashion Designer James Galanos
by Guy Trebay
Mr. Galanos, who outfitted Nancy Reagan for inaugural events, earned numerous accolades even as he evaded celebrity and shunned the fashion establishment.
WWD
James Galanos, Nancy Reagan Designer, Dies at 92
by WWD Staff
The designer died at his home in West Hollywood.
High Snobiety
United Arrows x Closed Collection
by Jack Drummond
United Arrow's creative director Hirofumi Kurino talks to Closed about the two brand's latest capsule collection of wardrobe essentials.
The Huffington Post UK
I Moved To China, And What I Saw Changed The Way I Think About Clothes Forever
by Christina Dean
I never thought that my move from London's Chelsea to living on China's doorstep 11 years ago would result in a complete fashion and ethical overhaul. Bu...
Jing Daily
Niche Fashion Labels Bridge Gap Between High Street and High End in China
by Tamsin Smith
Hip up-and-coming clothing labels are increasingly filling the missing space between fast fashion and ultra luxury in China.
WWD
Fashion Industry Contributions Favor Clinton
by Kristi Ellis
Clinton is seen as a president the industry can work with, while Trump is considered more unpredictable, which generates uncertainty for businesses.
DIS Magazine
On self-care and the election
by Eva Saelens
Hope for the future? It’s feeling as gaudy as Trump Tower.
Glossy
On the street: How 6 millennials really shop
by Jemma Brackebush
To get an idea of how millennials really shop, we decided to ask them ourselves. We stopped a range of young people on the streets in Manhattan to grill them on their shopping habits.
Fashionista
What Makes a Brand 'Cool' in 2016?
by Maura Brannigan
As customers get smarter and seek authenticity in their belongings, a brand's likability now goes far beyond just product.
Sustainable Brands
Trending: Breakthroughs in Biomimicry, Recycling Unlock ‘Tarantula Blue’ Textiles, Closed-Loop Tencel
The latest textile innovations include a new TENCEL® made from cotton fabric waste, recently picked up by Patagonia, and a research breakthrough that could lead to 'tarantula blue' textiles and better electronic screens.
seen
Lean Luxe
Dymant’s David Klingbeil: “Will people go back to old luxury brands if there’s better quality online at half the price?”
by M. Paul Munford
Winter is coming for luxury conglomerates, he says. And it should make them very nervous.
Vanity Fair
How Do You Build a Fashion Empire Without Celebrities?
by Rachel Tashjian
While most avant-garde labels rely on celebrities to make them household names, Sacai is building a sisterhood of devotees through other means.
The Washington Post
Uniqlo: An American Dream for a Japanese company
by Adam Taylor
As it opens a Tysons store, Uniqlo founder talks about America’s influence.
Bloomberg
Handbag Sellers Slashing Their Lineups as Luxury Demand Wanes
by Stephanie Hoi-Nga Wong
The handbag industry, rocked by slowing department-store traffic and a shift away from purses by millennials, has a new mantra this holiday season: Do more with less.
Kering
Better understand the stakes of trade in python skin
by Helen Crowley
Can we be sure python skin comes from sustainable sources and the animals are humanely treated? Not yet, but that is changing, thanks to a new initiative. Environmental expert Dr. Helen Crowley helps us get to grips with the subject.
Yahoo! Style
How One Woman Stopped Being Obsessed With Her Size
by Faran Krentcil
It’s the early 2000s and I’m being strangled by a Christian Dior slip dress. It’s rosebud pink and grafted with lace, and my boss - we’ll call her The Editor and stop there -- wants to make sure it will fit a certain movie star. (Oscar winner. Theater buff. That’s all you get.)
Glossy
'Too many cooks': agency confessions on working with fashion brands
by Jemma Brackebush
The relationships between fashion brands and agencies can get complicated.
Business of Fashion
The Elder Statesman Partners with NBA
by Lauren Sherman
As the relationship between fashion and basketball deepens, the collaboration marks the league’s first big push into luxury goods.
JSTOR Daily
Consumerism and The Wizard of Oz
by Erin Blakemore
The Smithsonian Institution is running a Kickstarter campaign to restore and preserve Dorothy’s ruby slippers from the 1939 film The Wizard of Oz.
Irenebrination
The Intricate Symbolism of Threads: Opus Anglicanum @ The Victoria & Albert Museum, London
by Anna Battista
The Latin title means "English work" and was employed in the 13th century to describe highly-prized and luxurious embroideries made in England using silk, gold and silver thread.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube
"Kimi Gasuki"
Optimal
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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