When looking back, it’s important to remember that times were different. My feelings back then weren’t right or wrong. They just were. I never feel ashamed of anything from the past because my motivations have always been to create beauty and bring out emotions. It’s important to remember your surroundings were different. | | | | Just a drop of No. 5. Chanel RTW A/W 2001, Paris, March 15, 2001.
(Jean-Pierre Muller/AFP/Getty Images) | | | | | | “When looking back, it’s important to remember that times were different. My feelings back then weren’t right or wrong. They just were. I never feel ashamed of anything from the past because my motivations have always been to create beauty and bring out emotions. It’s important to remember your surroundings were different.”
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| | rantnrave:// In the whirlwinds of today's gig economy, where touch-and-go, freelance, and under-employment are realities facing many of fashion's youngest creators, it's hard to imagine having spent the majority of one's adult life working for any one company. That's the reality CHRISTOPHER BAILEY will leave behind when he steps down as chief creative officer and president of BURBERRY in March 2018, after which he'll have spent 17 years—most of his life as a fashion designer—at the company known for British heritage, nova check, and the trench coat. With a company as sprawling and international as Burberry, it's difficult to point to any single cause for stalled business, but sure, Burberry had lost some edge over the last few years. Is this a failure of creativity or of marketing and strategic positioning? There's no doubt Bailey was integral to the brand's turnaround and rise through the 2000s. The length of his tenure at the label is something rarely realized in fashion now, and if there's been any theme to recent success from fashion's big players, it's a synergistic relationship between creative director and CEO. Bailey's time overlapped two now-legendary executives at Burberry: ROSE MARIE BRAVO and ANGELA AHRENDTS. Under Ahrendts, Burberry became known for being at the forefront of technology, once partnering with APPLE on a runway pre-release of the IPHONE 5S. When Ahrendts left for Apple in 2014, Burberry didn't maintain the brand aesthetic with its image of driving toward innovation. So what now? It could be good for the label to get back on the trajectory of pushing innovative retail along with its creative push. The spring/summer 2018 runway show felt like a turning point, with its cheeky play on the "chav" interpretation of the brand's nova check—an aesthetic once seen as "downmarket" and something the label made great strides to distance itself from years earlier. Just give it a decade or two: fashionable taste turns inside out. I thought the collection was great. Yet the label should approach the street-meets-luxury aesthetic with caution. It's maturing. Much respect to Bailey and best wishes on his future moves. BLOOMBERG cited sources that Bailey is open to moving on to a role outside of fashion. Speculation has begun that current CEO MARCO GOBBETTI might try to bring in PHOEBE PHILO, whom he worked with at CÉLINE. Wait and see... UNDER ARMOUR is having a tough time... 10 outerwear brands on HIGHSNOBIETY's radar... @ebaybae... The WORLD SERIES MVBs, that is, its "most valuable barbers." | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Bailey will remain as president and chief creative officer of Burberry until March 2018, making way for a new chapter in the brand’s creative strategy. | | |
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| Clothes maketh the man but they can also bringeth him down. The indictment of the former Trump campaign manager indicated that he spent about $1.3 million in New York and Beverly Hills. | | |
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| Menswear sites can offer a rare window into how cis men perform gender for each other. | | |
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| The Belgian designer’s first solo exhibition at the Mode Museum comes shortly after his much-anticipated return to the Paris Fashion Week schedule. | | |
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| On the release of his first book, we spoke to the legendary designer to find out what really comes between him and his Calvin’s. | | |
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| Sarasota's Eugene Stutzman was the founder of a fashion company that dressed Whitney Houston, Elizabeth Taylor, Jane Fonda and many more. | | |
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| A forthcoming documentary directed by Mark Bozek shines a new light on the legendary photographer and the world he inhabited. | | |
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| My guest this week is writer and editor, Jian Deleon. Jian and I spoke about his life as a young immigrant from the Philippines and how he climbed the menswear ladder. We talk wardrobes, menswear tv shows, and what pieces of clothing are worth keeping and what’s worth getting rid of. | | |
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| Derision for the genre might have as much to do with the bodice as the ripping. | | |
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| Dior’s jasmine supplier on her enviable job. | | |
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| After visiting the exhibition, Address contributor Kate Sekules asks: is this a modern exhibition, and is it about fashion? | | |
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| A renewed interest in craft, textiles and women artists has brought the work -- and the legacy -- of the modernist designer, artist, writer and teacher to the forefront of art historical discourse. | | |
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| It's time for us to start caring about diversity further than the end of the runway. | | |
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| Alexandra Shulman reflects on why shoppers invest so much emotionally and financially in one of the luxury industry's most powerful products. | | |
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| The main challenge for the fashion industry today is to move from having a sustainable capsule collection to embed sustainability across the whole business. | | |
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| Sustainability has made some advancements in the apparel industry but unethical practices at apparel factories are still rampant. | | |
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| "I was looking back to photos of Siouxsie Sioux and Madonna..." | | |
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| Last year, Kanye West told "Vogue" that he wants to open 200 stores for his Yeezy line -- a collaboration with adidas -- within the next few years. | | |
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| The city of Seoul is electric; a metropolitan stage for youthful, inquisitive fashion more concerned with confronting Confucian values than feeding fleeting trends. 'Korean designers are bold. Unafraid to break barriers and conventional stereotypes,' says Selfridges women's designwear buying manager Jeannie Lee. | | |
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| London-based technology and manufacturing platform Unmade has made a mark by enabling fashion brands to create custom garments on an industrial scale. Now, it has its sights set on athleticwear, particularly the knit trainers brands including Nike and Adidas have been hyping for years. | | |
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| | | | | CyHi the Prynce feat. Kanye West |
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