Punk has been used by the establishment to show how "fair" British society is because they are so tolerant, open and democratic. It’s in fashion. Every high street store pedals its own clichéd version. So what…does it mean anymore? Culture in decline is marked by conformity of opinion.
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Wrapped scarves, 2014. (David Rosen/Flickr)
Monday - November 28, 2016 Mon - 11/28/16
rantnrave:// Welcome back after a long AMERICAN holiday. This THANKSGIVING weekend, I’ve been observing the fine details and nuanced style cues of the near-ubiquitous puffer vest, noting that it’s worn by young and old, from rural farms to MANHATTAN’s center, in sizes triple zero to quadruple XL. I’ve seen all manner of contrasting zippers, snap-fronts, diamond quilting, gradated horizontal quilting, embroidered monograms, patch logos, and more. An exhaustive catalog of every puffer vest known to humanity would probably look like some kind of scientific spectrogram, but in polyester fill, nylon, wool, and down. A style for the ages? We’ll see… Shoutout to MARIA BOBILA for this piece on GUCCI knockoffs. With “post-truth” ranking high on word-of-the-year lists, it’s no wonder that shifting symbolism has taken the place of logos. My GUCCI isn’t your GUCCI isn’t her GUCCI, but we all love it, and the brand seems to welcome the kaleidoscope of interpretations. Post-parody may be a sore legal concept, but it feels right at the current moment… VIVIENNE WESTWOOD and MALCOLM MCLAREN’s son JOE CORRÉ burned a literal boatload of punk memorabilia and live-streamed it, also released side-by-side photos of the objects now turned to ash. Is live-streamed burning the logical evolution of 1970s BRITISH punk? Or is it everyone arguing in perpetuity over what punk is, what it isn't, and when it died?… Best use of a GIF goes to RACKED in this piece on BLACK FRIDAY sales. Fun challenge: what percentage discount have you not seen from a retailer this past week? 63%? 48%?… On that note, happy CYBER MONDAY. May the deals be worth it.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
togs
AnOther
Paninari: The Italian Originators of Fast Food in Fashion
by Amy O'Brien
We trace the history of a forgotten 1980s Milanese movement which prescribed eating burgers and wearing puffer jackets to represent forward-facing cool.
Jing Daily
Meet Zhijun Wang, the Designer Behind the Craze Over a $5,000 Yeezy Pollution Mask
by Jessica Rapp
It's not all about the hype though—this Beijing-based designer hopes his stylish sneaker air filters can help raise environmental awareness.
Racked
Who’s In Charge of Sustainability at Your Favorite Brand?
by Eliza Brooke
Inside the job that balances environmental responsibility with corporate concerns..
Fashionista
Why Bootleg Gucci Is, to Some, More Authentic Than the Real Thing
by Maria Bobila
From Dapper Dan to Alessandro Michele: a look at the rise and fall, and rise of fake Gucci logo tees and sweatshirts.
WWD
Vivienne Westwood, Joe Corré Say ‘No’ to Punk 40-Year Anniversary
by Lorelei Marfil
Westwood joined her son, Agent Provocateur founder Joe Corré, at a ritual burning of punk memorabilia in defiance of celebrations to mark the 40th anniversary of the movement.
UPROXX
How NBA Stars Took A Discriminatory Dress Code And Used It To Their Advantage
by Jack Moore
David Stern's dress code remains problematic, but players have found a way to make the most of it.
Vogue
When Vogue’s Street Style Photographer Turns Fashion Editor
by Phil Oh
Street style photographer Phil Oh styles his first-ever fashion shoot, for Franchise magazine. How hard can it be, right?
New York Magazine
The Magazine Making a Case That Identity Politics Matter Now More Than Ever
by Dayna Evans
Posture magazine is not backing down.
T Magazine
A 150-Year-Old British Footwear Factory, Through the Lens of Martin Parr
by Hettie Judah
To celebrate a century and a half in business, the suddenly-cool-again heritage brand Grenson enlisted the famously unsparing photographer to capture its essence.
The Guardian
All about my mother: growing up with Franca Sozzani of Vogue Italia
by Aaron Hicklin
Franca Sozzani, editor of Vogue Italia, has single-mindedly dedicated herself to being fashion’s most creative editor. Now her son Francesco Carrozzini has made a film about her. By Aaron Hicklin
staples
Huck Magazine
This is what Africa's fashion renaissance looks like...
by Per-Anders Pettersson
After a career of hard news, photographer Per-Anders Pettersson fell in love with Africa’s flourishing fashion industry and the positivity it radiates.
The New York Times
Fleurier, a Swiss Watch Company Town
by Kathleen Beckett
For centuries the village of flowers has been the center of crafts that turn timepieces into works of art.
Bloomberg
Ths Is Zara’s Recipe for Success
by Stephanie Baker
The world’s biggest fashion retailer is thriving as rivals falter.
JSTOR Daily
How DuPont Transformed Fashion With Stretchy Synthetics
by Erin Blakemore
DuPont invented the stretch synthetic fabric that revolutionized fashion in the mid-twentieth century.
Innovation in Textiles
Clothing for all abilities
A group of students in the USA design innovative and adaptive clothing for consumers with disabilities as part of the Open Style programme, which promotes the idea of universal and inclusive design.
Business of Fashion
Is E-Commerce Really Better For the Environment Than Traditional Retail?
by Edwin Jiang
While online heavyweights are quick to boast about the environmental impact of e-commerce, this holiday shopping season millions of eco-conscious consumers face a largely unanswered question.
The New York Times
What 9 Shoppers Wore While Browsing Madison Avenue
by Max Berlinger
Last weekend, a stylish uptown crowd could be spotted peering through windows and looking to replenish their wardrobes.
Vogue
Remembering Vogue’s Paris Bureau Chief, Susan Train, “An Island of Americanism in a Sea of French”
by Joan Juliet Buck
Remembering the indomitable, and ever stylish, Susan Train, Vogue’s longtime Paris Bureau Chief.
Hazlitt
Send in the Swans: Truman Capote's Final Creative Act
by Michael LaPointe
Fifty years later, Truman Capote's Black and White Ball, called variously the party of the year, the decade, and the century, proves his definitive final creative act.
The Guardian
RETRO READ: Designing a basic wardrobe on £100 - fashion archive, 25 November 1957
by Phyllis Heathcote
25 November 1957: If something happened to our present wardrobe, how would we set about replacing it from scratch on a limited budget?
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube
"Timeless"
Goldie
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