We’ve been very lucky and made more money than we ever thought possible out of luxury goods. But uncovering the raw or enduring talent — for me, that’s the best part...What’s not fun anymore is going to Bond Street or Fifth Avenue or Via Montenapoleone where the shops and product all look the same and have done now for the last 30 years because all the smaller, independent artisans have been pushed out by the retail rentals.
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High-heeled shoes thrown over wires in Key West, Florida, USA, 2012. (Acroterion)
Thursday - December 08, 2016 Thu - 12/08/16
rantnrave:// What is the future of craftsmanship in the fashion industry? Is it a trend, or a wake-up call? Something's in the air. RICHEMONT chairman JOHANN RUPERT co-founded a foundation dedicated to preserving and promoting master craftsmanship in EUROPE. Read the article for Rupert "on full rant." Truth to all of it... NEW YORK FASHION WEEK has a(nother) new home, at SKYLIGHT CLARKSON SQUARE in west SOHO. Not exactly the deus ex machina people may have been hoping for, but let's roll with it… Shoutout to ARABELLE SICARDI for her piece on REI KAWAKUBO and whether a single exhibition can faithfully treat the subject. I love Sicardi's idealism. See this interview with RICHARD MARTIN on the 1987 exhibition THREE WOMEN: MADELEINE VIONNET, CLAIRE MCCARDELL, AND REI KAWAKUBO. At the time of that show, Kawakubo was 44, and Martin said, "we really gave the room to Rei and she designed the environment for the clothing." If you can track down photos of that exhibition, it was stunning, and a positive answer as to whether fashion exhibitions can dutifully treat their subjects... After all the buzz about AMAZON GO and its aptly named "Just Walk Out" system for checkout, the company has debuted a line of men’s shirts on AMAZON FASHION, named BUTTONED DOWN. They’re for PRIME members, and the prices are low. Perhaps suspiciously low. I like the the idea of high-quality basics from Amazon, but do the math. Where and how are they made? Website description just lists “Imported.” Cue emoji. Would love to know more. I am rooting for you, Amazon Fashion. Being sensitive to a price ecosystem and where you fit in to the market is crucial when marketing "quality." Quality relative to price relative to target customer. If anyone has tried out these shirts let me know. They need a pop-up. Free returns don't win me over when it comes to quality because of the time factor. Commissioned reviews (dubbed “Vine Customer Review of Free Product”) are up on the website already, complete with some user-uploaded photos. Response-time. Gotta love the internet. Ah, someone already asked about where they're made: INDONESIA.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
valenciennes
Racked
Can the Met Possibly Capture Rei Kawakubo?
by Arabelle Sicardi
The Comme des Garçons designer means too much for any one exhibition.
The New York Times
New Foundation, Backed by a Luxury Titan, Focuses on Craftsmanship
by Elizabeth Paton
The chairman of the luxury group Richemont said the disappearance of traditional skills had prompted him to act.
British Vogue
Chanel's Métiers D'Art: An Editor's Diary
by Alexandra Shulman
British Vogue's editor-in-chief, Alexandra Shulman, reports from Paris where Chanel presented its 2017 Métiers D'Art show at the recently revamped Ritz hotel.
Racked
Why Skate Brands Can't Go Mainstream
by Malcolm Musoni
It’s complicated.
The New York Times
Ensuring a Future for Lace
by Dana Thomas
Sophie Hallette has been added to Chanel’s specialty métiers d’art group.
The Fashion Law
What Effect Has Kanye's Pablo Merch Had on Supplier Gildan?
by TFL
Gildan Activewear, the Canadian manufacturer of low-cost apparel basics, gained quite a bit of fashion industry interest over the past year, largely thanks to its recent acquisition of American Apparel and before that, its connection to Kanye West.
WWD
What Price Celebrity Ambassadors, Shareholders Ask Christian Dior
by Robert Williams
The holding company for the Dior fashion house also has a controlling stake in LVMH.
Fashionista
Why Black Fashion Designers Needed Their Own Museum Exhibit
by Dhani Mau
And why they shouldn't in the future.
The New York Times
Black Designers in Focus at Fashion Institute of Technology
by Alexandra Jacobs
A new show highlights the contributions of designers of African descent, from Jackie Kennedy’s first wedding gown to Michelle Obama’s Carpool Karaoke garb.
Quartz
While temperatures heat up outside, it's a winter wonderland inside South African malls
by Jackie Bischof
How to decorate for a season typically spent on the beach instead of huddled indoors around a Christmas tree.
carrickmacross
Ars Technica
Trying, and failing, to sneak into Amazon's Skynet take on grocery shopping
by Sam Machkovech
How does Amazon's "no clerks," camera-filled grocery store look from, er, the outside?
Loose Threads
The Scale Series — Part II: Brands that overscaled
by Richie Siegel
In Part I, we looked at the factors that both businesses and brands need to consider when scaling. With this foundation, we'll now examine some of the failures and some of the successes in the fashion industry. This piece will look at the former, while Part III will look at the latter.
Glossy
"There's already saturation": Where does top model Gigi Hadid go from here?
by Jemma Brackebush
At the end of the day, it comes down to dollars and whether her influence can sell products.
Fashionista
How Chinese Culture is Carving Out its Place in the Western Beauty Industry
by Noël Duan
A look at the important strides being made when it comes to the representation and celebration of Chinese ingredients, traditions and innovations in the Western beauty market.
Lean Luxe
How new luxury specialists like Cuyana, AYR, and Cienne are killing off designer diffusion brands.
by M. Paul Munford
Modern luxury upstarts have made designer diffusion lines utterly pointless. Here's why the model, a carryover from the 1990s, is going the way of the dinosaur.
Jing Daily
Victoria's Secret Fashion Show: How Chinese Consumers Reacted to Dragons on the Runway
by Yiling Pan
Chinese viewers were not very impressed by a dragon and other Chinese elements that appeared on the runway at this year's Victoria's Secret Fashion Show.
Forbes
How To Profit From The Death Of Malls In America
by Ky Trang Ho
The mall was the cornerstone of holiday shopping and American teenage life in the 1980s and 1990s, especially if you grew up in the suburbs. These days not so much. American malls have become a tragic story about the haves and have-nots.
Hyperallergic
Sustainable Solutions to the Clothing Industry's Staggering Waste Problem
by Leeron Hoory
An exhibition at the Cooper Hewitt showcases creative solutions to preproduction by three designers based in Tokyo, Milan, and Los Angeles.
Ecouterre
This Graphic Sums Up How Complex the Fashion Supply Chain is
by Jasmin Malik Chua
It's easy to forget how much work goes into creating a piece of clothing. Even the most basic of T-shirts requires supply-chain calisthenics to get from "fiber to fabric, fabric to garment."
Korea Joong Ang Daily
For Korean department stores, bigger doesn't mean better
by Yoo-Kyung Kim
As of late, Korean department stores have been going on somewhat of a building spree, with each new location getting bigger and bigger.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
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"Daily Searches"
The Illuminati
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