Designers work so damn hard. It shouldn’t be: that’s s*** and that’s good. Everything is just different, and it’s OK to have that. I hate that part of fashion, that negativity. We’re the second biggest industry in Britain. It’s not all Ab Fab.
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On the street in Kyoto, 2014. (2benny/Flickr)
Thursday - December 22, 2016 Thu - 12/22/16
rantnrave:// It can be difficult to untangle the network of relations that moves our stuff from origin to checkout, especially if the search for origin stops at a docked shipping container. It's all connected. STEVE DOOL dropped this report on the labor, politics, and all-around grievous economy of counterfeit goods. Dool’s report shows that if there’s one category of stuff that a person can feel responsible avoiding, it’s black market counterfeits. Watch the video for some honest opinions on why people would or wouldn't buy counterfeits, and for some hidden-camera shopping on NYC's CANAL ST… LOU STOPPARD interviewed CHRISTOPHER KANE for BON, and the two discuss some salient issues facing the industry. Much respect to Kane for saying he'll "always be a bit anti"... Thank you MAUREEN DOWD for this piece on ANDRÉ LEON TALLEY. Read it to find out what the two were talking about in NORTH CAROLINA: it's politics, puffers, and piecemeal dieting. And it's wonderful. Don’t miss Dowd and Talley's game of “confirm or deny”… I was moved by this CFDA short film on retiring WWD editor-in-chief EDWARD NARDOZA, who said in 2009, “You can’t avoid getting pulled into the gravitational force of this industry. It's an existential business...If you’re a naturally curious person, it’s the ideal business for you to be in.” Read the CFDA's tribute to Nardoza… A note on scheduling: FashionREDEF will be winding down for the holidays. We’ll return on Tuesday, Dec. 27 with a special edition of 2016's best year-end lists, and the next regular edition will be published Wednesday morning, Dec. 28. And to all readers, stay warm, stay woke, keep it lit, take care, follow/unfollow, have a laugh, happy holidays. Peace.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
brocade
Complex
Drugs, Guns, and Fake Kicks: Inside the Counterfeit Economy
by Steve Dool
Counterfeit clothing is a lucrative business that relies on consumers’ thirst for bargain shopping to line the pockets of criminals.
Bon
A Man of His Word: Christopher Kane Interview
by Lou Stoppard
Pursuing originality at any cost, his brand now bigger than ever, Christopher Kane is facing the future head on. After ten years in business, he is not pulling his punches.
The New York Times
Monsieur Vogue Is Leaving Trumpland
by Maureen Dowd and Andre Leon Talley
While his friends Anna Wintour and Kanye West make pilgrimages to Trump Tower, André Leon Talley is focused on trying to lose 100 pounds.
CFDA
RETRO WATCH: A Short Film Honors Edward Nardoza, WWD's Retiring Editor-in-Chief
by N + N Films and
A 2009 tribute to Edward Nardoza, who will retire as editor-in-chief of WWD. Nardoza spent 25 years as the EIC of WWD and a total of 39 years at Fairchild.
The New Yorker
The Year in Fashion: Down with the Élites!
by Judith Thurman
The past year will go down in history as a year of radical regime change, not least (well, probably least) in the fashion world.
The New York Times
What Alisa Belletini Taught Us About Style
by Wesley Morris
The outsider whose “House of Style” brought high fashion to a generation of clueless teenagers.
Fast Company
The Year Fashion Collided With Politics
by Elizabeth Segran
In a divided country, fashion was a vehicle for community and self-expression.
WWD
WTO Trade Partners Hail U.S. Economy Amid Concern Over Protectionist Talk
by John Zarocostas
A number of top WTO envoys used the session to voice their apprehensions about growing antitrade sentiment.
Business of Fashion
The Human Cost of Next Day Delivery
by Helena Pike
Today’s consumers are demanding faster fulfilment - but next-day and same-day delivery costs companies dearly, and some workers are paying the price.
Racked
This Yoga Brand's Bankruptcy Filing Could Signal Trouble in Athleisure Land
by Chavie Lieber
Is the fitness apparel bubble finally starting to burst?
nappa
The Fashion Law
U.S. Trade Representative Releases Special 301 Report, Singles out Alibaba
The Office of the United States Trade Representative (“USTR”) released its 2016 “Special 301” Out-of-Cycle Review of Notorious Markets report on Wednesday, detailing how intellectual property is being protected -- or better yet, not protected -- on a worldwide basis.
The Atlantic
The Social Advantage of Pockets
by Clare Mullaney
Who can use a pocket, and what it can carry, has historically depended on the person doing the pocketing.
Bloomberg
How One Huge American Retailer Ignored the Internet and Won
by Kim Bhasin and Lindsey Rupp
TJ Maxx and sister chain Marshalls know how to get you in the store-and there are still a few days left until Christmas.
Fantastic Man
Questionnaire N° 11 — JOHAN KUGELBERG and the most unbelievable cotton
by Johan Kugelberg
"It’s like a binary code and when you touch it you just know, yes or no. Cotton often becomes unbelievable after it has aged."
Economy
The little town of Prato has been taken over by Chinese stuff. I had a look around
by Saman Sadeghi Afgeh
You know all those 'left behind' towns everyone's talking about at the moment, hit by globalization and angry about it? Prato is one of those.
Hint Fashion Magazine
A Moment for Patrick Kelly
by Lee Carter
It's too often the case that recently passed designers, struck down before their creative peak, are simply forgotten, cycled out of memory by an accelerating fashion system. The American designer Patrick Kelly, a perpetually upbeat Mississippian, is one such case.
The Globe and Mail
How China partnership helps Indochino offer men's custom suits faster
by Paul Attfield
Manufacturing facilities with cutting-edge technology also produce garments for Banana Republic and Hugo Boss.
Scroll.in
#Muslimahchic: The young and fashionable hijabi revolution on social media
by Rhema Mukti Baxter
Dispelling prejudice, one fashion tip at a time.
Vogue
Here’s Your Chance to Meet Your First Designer Obsession of 2017—Introducing Sarah Aphrodite
by Mark Holgate
Scroll, scroll, scroll, like, like, like, and then, occasionally, though perhaps not nearly as much as we’d all hope, stop, stop, stop and then look, look,
The Hairpin
A 2016 Gift Guide That Will Be Completely Unhelpful To You
by Sarah-Grace Sweeney
Because it specifically applies only to my life.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube
"Thinking About Your Love (Original 12'' Version)"
Skipworth And Turner
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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