Here’s what I think: Fashion isn’t really about clothes. It’s about life. Everyone can afford fashion on some level, everyone can talk about it. So what else can we say? We can’t always be writing about flowers and lace and aquamarine.
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Still from 'Unravel' documentary, 2016. (Aeon Video)
Wednesday - December 28, 2016 Wed - 12/28/16
rantnrave:// RIP FRANCA SOZZANI. We’ve compiled a list of tributes to the beloved fashion editor in this REDEF FashionSET, Remembering Franca Sozzani. A philosophy student turned editor, Sozzani believed fashion was a conduit for broader human issues such as race, violence, and the environment. Her striking and controversial editorials moved the fashion world. Some of the most poignant remembrances I've seen are pages direct from VOGUE ITALIA, the magazine Sozzani shepherded for 28 years. STEFANO TONCHI includes an amazing editorial from PER LUI, and there are several striking pages from @frontrowmeme on TWITTER: see exhibit A and B… Watch the short documentary UNRAVEL for scenes of garment recycling in PALIPAT in northern INDIA. Sorted by color, the images of heaped clothing castoffs have an aesthetic all their own. Set against this backdrop, the documentary offers an incredibly human look at people who work in garment recycling. Women in the film speculate as to why so many clothes arrive from western countries. There's a persistent notion that water is too precious, and that's why people discard barely-worn clothes… On the transparency front, check out this profile of SREYEANG, a woman who makes her living as a garment sewer in CAMBODIA. She told the interviewers that at this point, she’s “not scared of anything”… These 2017 fashion industry projections from FAST COMPANY capture the forward momentum of the year. ELIZABETH SEGRAN has the best assertion about athleisure I’ve seen. She rightly highlights that the buzz in that buzzword died, but the phenomenon of wearing performance activewear for all occasions is, well, sort of undead. "It's just how we dress"... I really like GRAILED’s interpretation of the performance gear aesthetic. Their editors call it techwear… Shoutout to this year end LIST-as-commentary from GARY WARNETT… In SAN FRANCISCO, the beloved label BABETTE is shuttering after 50 years. The last day of business at its UNION SQUARE store will be Dec. 30. In 2018, the DEYOUNG museum will debut "The Fashion of Islam"... You want some #Polydata? Then you'll have it, from POLYVORE.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
hike
The New York Times
Remembering Franca Sozzani: A Worldview That Mattered
by Vanessa Friedman
Ms. Sozzani, who died recently at age 66, was an editor who knew that fashion isn’t really about clothes.
YouTube
Unravel - This is the final resting place for your cast-off clothing
by Aeon Video
When people in the West throw their clothes away, their cast-offs often go on a journey east, across the oceans, to India’s industrial interior. From the Kutch District of western India to the northern city of Panipat, garment recyclers turn into yarn the huge bales of clothes that come from people and places distinctly strange.
Racked
Dressing the Women in Blue
by Sydney Parker
When uniforms aren't made for female officers, the police have a problem.
Bloomberg
François-Henri Pinault on a More Sustainable Fashion Industry
by Kim Bhasin
Saving Mother Earth, one fashion house at a time.
i-D Magazine
why celebrity airport style is a fascinating sign of the times
by Maggie Lange
Joan Jett once rode a Heathrow baggage cart in platform boots. In 2016, actresses shuffle through LAX in sweatpants. What changed?
Fashion Unfiltered
Fifty Years of Norma Kamali—The Designer, The Woman, The Legend
by Katharine K. Zarrella
At 71, the designer, wellness expert, and winner of the CFDA’s 2016 Lifetime Achievement Award is still turning out blockbuster collections, shattering the glass ceiling, and inspiring a whole new generation of self-sufficient women.
Grailed
Master Class: ACRONYM
by Rocky Li and Errolson Hugh
Dry Clean Only is your destination for fashion, streetwear, and the best of what Grailed has to offer.
Fast Company
No More Athleisure, Brick And Mortar, Made in China? How Fashion Will Change In 2017
by Elizabeth Segran
The tectonic plates of the fashion world are moving. Here are four shifts to expect next year.
Dazed Digital
NY skate witches Brujas take on prison reform with clothes
by Rana Good
The feminist collective are pushing for social change with their new collection
Fashion Revolution
Meet the Maker: I am Sreyneang : Fashion Revolution
by Ayesha Barenblat
#whomademyclothes: We met Sreyneang, a woman who has been working inside a Cambodian denim factory for three years, but has worked in the garment industry for many years.
pack
The Muse
The Case for Carrie Fisher As a Personal Style Icon
by Julianne Escobedo Shepherd
While the majority of Hollywood relies on a select handful of publicists to procure the same five designers for their red carpet events, Carrie Fisher did it like she did everything: by her damn self.
Racked
Fighting the Impending Apocalypse with DIY Fashion
by Molly Pohlig
A diary of sewing in a time of great stress.
Business of Fashion
Has LA Fashion Week Finally Found Its Feet?
by Hayley Phelan
American designers continue to look for creative answers to the 'problem of fashion week.' Increasingly, they’re finding them in Los Angeles.
Man Repeller
Why Does Shopping Make Me Feel Good?
by Leandra Medine
In some ways, I feel like an addict. But really, why do I love shopping so much?
Polyvore
#Polydata: The Best of Polyvore 2016
by Amy Wicks
By Amy Wicks, Senior Fashion Editor Drake and RiRi’s on-again, off-again relationship, 1D’s breakup, athleisure or nude lips--what were...
The Fashion Law
Vetements: The Coolest Copycat Around
by TFL
As the year comes to a close, and an increasing amount of fashion websites bestow honors on the industry’s most favored designers and creative directors, it seems an apt time to look back at some of the attention that has been paid to Paris-based label, Vetements, and its director, Demna Gvasalia.
San Francisco Chronicle
Babette wraps up 48 years in San Francisco fashion
by Tony Bravo
After almost 50 years in business, San Francisco designer and retailer Babette Pinsky is shuttering her eponymous clothing line and stores. The 74-year-old Pinsky and her husband and business partner, Steven Pinsky, knew that it was the right time to close when “a number of things came together,” including a succession plan for the business that never came to fruition.
Sportswear International.com
Video: Cone Denim wraps company anniversary with short film
by Lorenzo Molina
Cone Denim’s latest short film explores the beginnings of the company in its hometown of Greensboro, North Carolina and gives insights about the business today.
Los Angeles Times
Lands' End, after years of struggle, searches for its retail mojo
by David Lazarus
Lands’ End once again is seeking a path out of the retail wilderness, and I’m hoping it makes it.
Grailed
Watch: Fashion Moves Forward's Grailed Documentary
"A while back, our friends at Fashion Moves Forward swung by Grailed HQ with the ambitious task of putting together a documentary that encapsulates where Grailed is at as a growing company, and we couldn’t be happier to share the finished product with you guys. Enjoy a peek inside our daily lives and what we are trying to build here at Grailed."
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube
"Club Tropicana"
Wham!
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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