Your weekly digest of Toronto food news

October 17, 2024

 

Dear reader,

Around 15 years ago, after returning to the GTA from a stint in Taiwan, I was living in a basement apartment in Lakeview, around the corner from Dixie Outlet Mall. It might have been 100 square feet and I was visited by spiders and centipedes every single day but it was $500 a month, utilities and parking included. And while that’s a very fun-slash-sad fact, it’s not the point of this story. The point is, I wasn’t even living in Toronto, nor had I been anywhere near the city since the very early aughts, and I was employed at a school in Etobicoke (my current line of work barely a twinkle in my eye) when I first heard about the Black Hoof. 

And now, here I am, almost two decades later, still talking about the Hoof—even though it’s been closed since 2018—and the person responsible for it. In that time, Jen Agg opened Cocktail Bar, Rhum Corner, Grey Gardens, Le Swan and Bar Vendetta, all of which survived the pandemic. Somewhere in there, she also wrote a best-selling memoir. Her newest baby, General Public, is a British-ish pub on Geary open from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., offering a menu that includes breakfast sandwiches, a cheeseburger, New York strip steak and caviar service. Given Agg’s track record, this won’t be her last restaurant and we’ll still be talking about her another 15 years from now. 

In this edition of Table Talk, Courtney Shea catches up with Agg, who dishes on the challenges of opening a restaurant in today’s economy, how she handles rude customers and why General Public is only making 21 burgers a day.

Also in this week’s newsletter, what’s on the menu at Pizzeria No. 900 and what’s in the home kitchen of Top Chef Canada host Eden Grinshpan.

For more of our food-and-drink coverage, visit torontolife.com or subscribe to our print edition.

—Rebecca Fleming, food and drink editor

 
 

Our top stories

 
Toronto, Food and Drink, Jen Agg

  “I GUESS I JUST LIKE DOING THIS”

Fifteen years ago, Jen Agg led a Toronto restaurant revolution, ripping the stuffy white tablecloth out from under high-end dining with her chalkboard charcuterie mecca, the Black Hoof. Ten openings, one bestselling memoir and a million social-media spats later, Agg continues to innovate. We caught up with her just after she opened her most ambitious project yet.

 
Toronto, Food and Drink, Pizzeria No. 900
 

WHAT’S ON THE MENU

It seemed for a while that Detroit- and New York–style pies were pushing Neapolitan ones off their Toronto pedestal, but the floppy, blistered pizzas are making a comeback. Pizzeria No. 900, a Montreal export now open in the Beaches, is one of only four pizzerias in the city to get the coveted thumbs up from the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana.

 
Food and Drink, Toronto, Eden Grinshpan

 KITCHEN DIARIES

When she’s not hosting Top Chef Canada or writing cookbooks, Eden Grinshpan can be found pulling together vegetable-heavy meals in her supremely cool custom kitchen. Take a peek around to see what she stocks her fridge and cupboards with—but also take a moment to appreciate that island and backsplash.

 

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Toronto Life's November 2024 issue

NOVEMBER 2024: THE SPACE SAVERS

In the latest issue: 20 Torontonians doing big things with small footprints. Plus, the ugly truth about Ontario’s reform schools, a Q&A with the city’s traffic czar, vintage cars retrofitted for the electric age and more. Still not receiving Toronto Life at home? Subscribe today.

 
 
 

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