Richard's Castle lies plum on the border between England and Wales, patrolling the marches where it's fortress was first built by the eponymous Richard in the 1050's - a Norman but before the Conquest (which shows that Anglo-Saxon eleventh-century politics was rather more complicated than Harold and the English vs William and the Normans). A large church grew up in the castle's outer bailey, and a substantial burgh was founded too - but over time the trade and the threat moved away, as did the Mortimers whose castle it became, and the site of battle and bustle has become one of peace, with the church sleeping in the care of the Churches' Conservation Trust.

The core of the church is of course Norman - look at those massive round-headed splayed window openings in the north wall. But as so often Topsy grew, and a north transept was added with a roofline higher than the present one of the nave and a striking north window with its six-pointed star. It's side windows are square-topped and must be later, but in the east ones are fragments of late mediaeval glass - perhaps the Coronation of the Virgin. An earlier mediaeval king's head hides elsewhere, while the Victorian main east window offers a slightly unusual answer to the question, "What did the risen Jesus wear?" with its red and green cape. More decorous than a loincloth, or less. (The graveclothes of course had been left behind ...)

The timberwork of the roof is open to view throughout and catches both the eye and the interest. Look out especially for the huge screw-ended beams propping up the (lat medieval again) south aisle which was added with very substantial arcade openings and correspondingly less substantial steadiness. You'll also see a fine array of timber seating, from box pews and (perhaps) servants' benches, to a banked grandstand at the back (was it for the schoolchildren?), and the large piece of furniture in the transept which looks just a bit like a disused ticket kiosk, but is in fact a fine "family pew" still used by the Salweys when occasional services are held.

The heraldry of the Salweys is set out on display, and contrast the complicated quartering of the hatchments, from an age when showing off your connections mattered, to the severe single coat of the latest memorial, from an age of discretion in such things.

It's good to know that this sleeping giant is still open for visitors and still connected for occasional services too. It's worth the excursion to the edge of the world.