Fashion is the latest fashion, the latest difference. An emblem of class (in all senses) withers once it loses its distinctive power. When the miniskirt reaches the mining villages of northern France, it's time to start all over again.
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Billboards in Castello, Venice, 2009. (Tomas Kohl/Flickr)
Thursday - November 17, 2016 Thu - 11/17/16
rantnrave:// 1GRANARY has an intriguing interview with designer QUOÏ ALEXANDER, who uses no stitching or sewing of any kind to make his designs. His experiment is with cycles of human civilization itself, and his break with sewing diverges from a practice that’s been with us since the Paleolithic Era. Designers from PIERRE CARDIN to IRIS VAN HERPEN have been known for their own radical experiments with new materials and techniques. Take Cardin's heat molded dress for example—if memory serves, that one does have a zipper sewn in. Alexander says, “…we are all participating in a global world, I believe border irrelevance is accelerating.” With all the talk of global fashion, what does it mean when the very idea of nationhood breaks down? Economist ROBERT SCHILLER wrote recently that a revolt against the idea of nation-states could be on the horizon, and given AMERICA's current situation with nationhood and our own borders, is it any wonder there's a desire to transcend?… But back to the global present, here’s a line inspired by NYC's CHINATOWN, and another based on CHINA’s traditional culture. Also, GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY is showing his next collection in KALININGRAD, RUSSIA. It's the first time he'll show in Russia since his 2009 debut in MOSCOW… In this new book, a graphic designer, a design educator, a theologian, and an illustrator collaborated to show the dress of over 40 orders of Catholic nuns and sisters. While the austerity and purity associated with nuns' habits and priests' cassocks are widely considered to be antifashion, both types of clothing have indeed changed according to reinterpretations of doctrine. In 1964, after a shift in religious perspectives following VATICAN II, the house of DIOR under MARC BOHAN designed new habits for the DAUGHTERS OF CHARITY OF SAINT VINCENT DEPAUL... If you want hyperreal lips, check out this beauty trend, dubbed #hololips.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
habit
1 Granary
Quoï Alexander throws 21,000 years of fashion creation out the window
by Elizabeth Pllx
Quoï Alexander is not your ordinary fashion designer. His Central Saint Martins BA graduate collection required the assistance of 20 people, he does not even use a sewing machine (or needle, for that matter), and he discards methods of creating clothing that have been kept alive for the past—roughly—21.000 years.
Wallpaper* Magazine
Sister act: how the nun’s habit has shaped religion, fashion and semiotics
by Jessica Klingelfuss
"[Bennett's] research, incorporating visions and miracles, high drama and humble beginnings, persecution and insurrection, reveals how the story of the habit is also that of the struggle between the powerful and the poor, of politics, social care and the role of women; and of the interplay between culture, fashion and faith."
Racked
Why Do So Many Beauty Stores Look Exactly the Same?
by Cheryl Wischhover
How retail décor makes you want to buy makeup.
Business of Fashion
The $13 Billion Zipper Wars
by Edwin Jiang
Japan’s YKK Group and China’s SBS control more than half the world’s zipper supply. In this global fastening arms race, who will come out on top?
i-D Magazine
valentino's russian revolution
by Anders Christian Madsen
The night after the U.S. election, Valentino brought the heart of liberal New York to Moscow in a speakeasy event marking the opening of its new Tretyakovsky Proyezd store.
GQ
Acne Studios Founder Jonny Johansson Doesn’t Care If Drake and Rihanna Wear His Clothes
by Noah Johnson
The elusive Swedish designer opens up.
AnOther
Ann Demeulemeester's Fiercely Independent S/S97 Collection
by AnOther
A defining moment in the Belgian designer’s career, we recall the show that captivated the fashion industry with a Patti Smith inspired feminine strength
Man Repeller
A Queer Beauty Writer on the Sexual Politics of Hair
by Arabelle Sicardi and
Arabelle Sicardi discusses her hair and her favorite products.
Fashionista
How Jane Keltner de Valle Is Merging the Worlds of Fashion and Architecture
by Tyler McCall
"I think we're going through such a seismic cultural shift right now."
Retail Dive
How UPS stays steady in center of e-commerce shipping storm
by Dan O'Shea
Despite Amazon's shipping ambitions and myriad other forces driving market upheaval, UPS continues to invest in a future defined by e-commerce opportunities and obstacles.
doctrine
High Snobiety
Creativity in the Age of the Personal Brand
by Jian DeLeon
We talk to Chris Unwin and Fabien Montique to learn about creativity in the age of the personal brand on this episode of our podcast, Conversations.
The Fashion Law
Premium Beauty: What is it and Why is it So Important Right Now?
Premium or prestige beauty, as distinct from mass market beauty, includes makeup, fragrances and skin care products that “tend to be fancier than what you find at the drugstore,” according to the Wall Street Journal. Another difference between the two categories? Growth.
Harvard Business Review
Fixing Discrimination in Online Marketplaces
by Ray Fisman and Michael Luca
Airbnb, Uber, and others are facing the unintended consequences of their platforms’ design choices.
Fashionista
Can Rent the Runway Shop-in-Shops Help Keep Neiman Marcus Relevant?
by Dhani Mau
The disruptive designer rental service and luxury department store just announced an interesting new partnership.
WWD
Costume Designer Albert Wolsky on Making the Character
by Karen Idelson
For legendary costume designer Albert Wolsky, clothing maketh the character.
The New Inquiry
The Sisterhood, If It Ever Existed and It Probably Didn’t, Shattered While I Wasn’t Looking and All I Got Was This Dumb Safety Pin
by Autumn Whitefield-Madrano
"I have always believed that beauty is political. But when we are dealing with fascism sweeping our nation, the way for those of us who believe that is to use beauty in ways that support the work we have ahead of us."
The New York Times
Ivanka Trump Blurs the Line Between Professional and Political
by Vanessa Friedman
Promoting a bracelet from her own brand that she wore during her father’s “60 Minutes” interview, the incoming first daughter raises some eyebrows.
Racked
The Trump-Shaped Shadow Over Fifth Avenue
by Eliza Brooke
What it's like inside the Trump Tower Gucci store.
The Washington Post
The J. Crew bridal dress is dead. But the casual wedding it inspired lives on.
by Sarah Halzack
Wearing a dress from the place you bought jeans showed you rejected the wedding-industrial complex.
T Magazine
Person to Know: The Designer Making One-of-a-Kind Pieces From Sustainable Fabrics
by Kin Woo
John Alexander Skelton sources vintage materials from around England and then hand-dyes them before sewing them into men’s garments.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube
"Pi Lo Lo"
Jojo Abot
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@JasonHirschhorn


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