Xan Devoss had a sourdough starter well before it was hip, and has been baking bread for as long as she can remember. In 2015, she started Fox & Lion Bread Co. in Bayview-Hunters Point, serving freshly baked whole-grain breads, pizza, and sandwiches, emphasizing the flavor of the grains through a long fermentation process.
A community has grown around the bakery-café, and when pandemic forced them to close their doors and do takeout-only last year, Fox & Lion joined the Mission Community Market to widen the circle. Through it all, Xan remains deeply committed to making handcrafted, nutrient-dense breads accessible, while supporting local farmers.
We spoke with Xan about Fox & Lion’s pandemic pivot, the reverberations of the home-baking craze, and how sour a whole-grain sourdough ought to be.