| On the evening of 23 February 2022, I was in Kyiv eating dinner at the home of the Ukrainian novelist Andrey Kurkov. Andrey cooked Borscht. He was optimistic; I wasn’t. I thought a terrible storm was coming. Later, I took a call from a well-placed contact. He told me: “the invasion will begin at 4am.”
At 4:30am, a colleague called to say Russian tanks had crossed the border and were heading our way.
There were explosions in the distance. By morning, thousands were already fleeing to the border. It felt like a moment in history and a dark turn for our century.
The war, I fear, won’t finish anytime soon. But two years ago most people believed Russia would occupy Kyiv and topple Volodymyr Zelenskiy’s government. That didn’t happen and Ukraine has fought back. It has liberated half of its territory and has driven Russia’s fleet from the Black Sea. But last year’s counteroffensive failed and Russian troops are moving forward. In February, they captured the city of Avdiivka. So far, though, Ukraine has prevented large-scale enemy advances.
Ukrainians believe in victory, even though this seems far off. They are paying a huge price for freedom and the right to live the way they want. | 
Restaurants bustle, new bookshops open, the air raid app goes off. This is our defiant reality in Kyiv 
