Smitty’s Market in Lockhart, Texas, keeps it traditional, and with delectable results. The smoke stings your eyes as you walk into the hallway, the walls black with a century of burnt oak. There’s a gap in the line as you queue up at the meat counter, to avoid the slow-burning fire at the end of the 12-foot brick smokehouse. Contained within: mounds of brisket, sausage, turkey and pork ribs. A sign advises “No Forks,” but they will give you a plastic knife. No plates, either. The meat is served on brown paper, with slices of white bread or saltines. As I tuck into a pound of brisket, with the salty, smoky burnt ends inciting my taste buds, I realize I have reached Texas BBQ nirvana: Smitty’s Market. | 