How TikTok’s ‘#morningshed’ went viral

The women in the videos begin by liberally applying layers of skincare products. Then come the sheetmasks: two under the eyes, one across the whole face, and perhaps another for the neck. A silk bonnet is placed over the hair, a chinstrap wraps the jaw and, as a final touch, a cartoonish, lip-shaped sticker is placed over the mouth, sealing it shut. And that’s the simplified version.

Welcome to the tyranny of #morningshed, the viral TikTok trend in which creators apply multiple, increasingly absurd layers of skincare products, masks and accessories before bed, hoping to uncover a flawless complexion when they peel them away the following morning. We aren’t talking about the (comparatively simple) serums and essences that made up the once-popular 12-step Korean-inspired routines. Now, it’s chinstraps to “lift” the jawline, hydrogel masks infused with “ultra-low molecular collagen” to smooth, and adhesive tape applied to the skin to restrict wrinkling. I was going to liken it to Patrick Bateman’s morning routine in American Psycho, but having rewatched that scene, his gel cleanser, exfoliating scrub and face mask ritual feels decidedly lower maintenance.

According to Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and founder of the Self London clinic, the morning shedding trend is based more on performative productivity than it is skincare science. “There is growing pressure to curate every aspect of modern life – to present not just a polished appearance, but a polished process,” she says. “Skincare has not been spared, and these increasingly complex night-time rituals often go beyond what the skin physiologically requires, and instead reflect a broader cultural compulsion toward perfection.”

There’s something pretty dystopian about the image of these young women rising mummy-like from their beds – where presumably they have to sleep on their backs to ensure their masks, straps and gadgets stay in place – to begin the laborious process of “shedding” each morning. And the more formidable the routine, the more views the video gets. As TikTok creator Ashley West declared to her 1 million followers: “The uglier you go to bed, the hotter you wake up” – a depressingly popular “affirmation” for the trend. And that’s before we even get on to the popularity of mouth tape, which involves sealing your mouth shut to promote nose breathing instead – apparently resulting in better sleep and less snoring. Nose breathing can offer benefits, according to Harvard Health Publishing, but the organisation warns against using mouth tape to achieve it, citing “hampered breathing” and “significantly reduced” oxygen levels as potential risks. The symbolism is almost too on the nose. It feels as though, in many ways, we’re still as beholden to the idea of having to suffer for beauty as we ever were.

Not only that, but is all of this effort actually achieving anything? Take face taping, a practice that uses kinesiology tape to restrict muscle movement and prevent lines forming in key areas such as between the eyebrows – referred to as 11 lines – the outer corners of the eyes, and between the nose and mouth. In theory, it sounds faintly plausible, but Mahto explains that the mechanisms of ageing are far more complex. “Wrinkles are not just about movement, they involve collagen loss, changes in fat distribution … Taping cannot reverse or prevent those processes.” What it can do is irritate the skin, she says, especially with repeated application. “At best, it offers a fleeting sense of control. At worst, it disrupts the barrier and causes unnecessary inflammation.”

Dermatologists are similarly dismissive of single-use collagen gel masks, which appear opaque white on application but are transparent by morning, when the ingredients are said to have absorbed into the skin.

“Not only is there an environmental impact, but there’s also no solid evidence that applying collagen topically replenishes the body’s own collagen stores,” says consultant dermatologist Dr Cristina Psomadakis, who is the medical director of prescription skincare brand Klira. And don’t get her started on the cocktail of different serums influencers layer on underneath the masks – retinoids, acids and other powerful actives applied with an alarmingly liberal hand. “I think most dermatologists will tell you the biggest problem they see is people overdoing it by following skin trends, or layering on products that should not be combined.”

In many ways, it’s human nature to be drawn to products and rituals presented as offering an instant transformative effect. The skincare industry isn’t booming for nothing. But as always, it’s the slightly boring but ultimately reassuring less-is-more approach that actually works. “The best thing you can do at night is wash off the remains of the day, including your face sunscreen, or makeup that can clog your pores,” says Psomadakis. “Most dermatologists have a very simple skincare routine consisting of a cleanser, moisturiser, sunscreen, and usually a prescription treatment at night.”

The idea of having separate products for day and night is not all marketing spin, according to Mahto. “At night, the skin becomes more permeable, meaning it absorbs active ingredients more efficiently. Blood flow increases, repair processes accelerate, and water loss peaks,” she says. “So yes, there is some genuine science behind using particular products in the evening. Anything that increases skin sensitivity, like retinoids or exfoliating acids, is usually better applied at night, when the skin is not being exposed to UV or environmental pollutants.”

At the end of the day though, all of this is optional. And, ironically, one of the best things you can do for your skin is to stop scrolling TikTok into the early hours and get plenty of sleep (ideally unencumbered by chinstraps and mouth tape). Since we live in an era in which young girls are waking at 4.30am to begin their extensive skincare routines, and poor self-esteem issues in tweens are being linked to the use of social media beauty filters, don’t we owe it to ourselves to exercise a bit of restraint on the beauty front?

What’s hot – and what’s most definitely not – this week

Going up

Hiking boots | Ideal for peaks and, um, premieres. See Keanu Reeves in a pair of Merrells at the opening night of Evita in London.

Delivery boxes | When working from home really means working from the park/garden/balcony, DIYing a laptop hood from a cardboard box to stop screen glare is an essential summer hack.

Dahlias | Fans include Marie Antoinette, Monty Don and Sofia Coppola, who on Sunday evening placed them on tables at the Bal d’Été – France’s version of the Met Gala.

Going down

Caffeine jitters | JW Anderson’s new curated collection of his favourite things includes coffee-flavoured tea from Postcard Teas. Tastes the same as a long black but without the spike in cortisol levels.

Holiday book stacks | The latest holiday humblebrag is the subtle but status beach towel. Think retro-striped offerings from Tekla, geometric prints from Baina and Toteme’s monogram version.

Office air | TikTok is convinced the office AC is to blame for looking and feeling meh by the end of the working day. Hard relate.

Morwenna Ferrier, fashion and lifestyle editor, solves your wardrobe dilemmas

Q: I’m the mother to a wild one-year-old and have come to realise that my wardrobe (from pre-baby times) is highly impractical. Big hoop earrings, short skirts and dresses, long hair – none of my old staples work any more! I’m stuck in jeans and T-shirts and feeling rather boring. Any advice on how to be both practical and stylish? – Linnea

A: I have two children and though, in essence, I am the same person, my body has done strange things, which means I’ll probably never dress like I did pre-kids. So, first, grieve that. Then chuck out your especially mum-ish things and build yourself back from there: I ditched my dungarees and loose-waist trousers and replaced them with wide-legged jeans (still young!) and lots of Adidas Firebird tracksuit bottoms. I still wear a lot of dresses, though – you may just need some practical shoes to go with (a pair of Red Wing boots, some nice Asics and a ballet flat will get you far).

Hair is a big issue with babies, and though I refused to cut all mine off, I have to say that a bob and a fringe have served me well. Also, invest in some nice scrunchies (Hunza G) so that if they are a bit grabby, you can keep your hair out of their hands. As a mother to an 18-month-old, my first thought is: hang in there. It’s only now that I’m fully dressing for me once more. I’ll probably never wear hoops again, but I’m fine with that.

Got your own style question? Send it to fashionstatement@theguardian.com.