Good evening

Is there any meal more delicious than the first one you sit down to after a long and arduous hike? For our writer Caroline Eden, no Michelin-starred fare could compete with the simple, refreshing lunch of salad, thick madzoon (similar to yoghurt) and fresh lavash bread that she was served in the cool shelter of a cave cafe at the end of a long, hot climb up to Armenia’s Noravank monastery – one of the country’s most notable landmarks. “The deep, primeval happiness and comfort when you finally sit down and eat is one of the most satisfying and pleasurable things in life,” she writes. “A hillside sandwich is one thing, an Armenian feast is next level.”

Beautiful hikes and delicious food are two things that this landlocked country at the eastern fringes of Europe, does very well. For her new book, Green Mountains: Walking the Caucasus with Recipes, Caroline spent a couple of months exploring Armenia’s towns, valleys and hills, much of it on foot, and fuelled by the remarkable hospitality of the local people. While it might not boast the towering peaks of neighbouring Georgia, there are far fewer trekkers here “and the sense of adventure is often greater”.

The itinerary took in ruined monasteries, forests, lakes and makeshift food markets where farmers sold figs, raspberries and fresh pumpkin juice from the boots of their cars. If you’re looking for an inspiring – and mouthwatering – read about a fascinating country that has stayed under most tourists’ radar, do check out Caroline’s story.