Birchbark canoes, made by Mi'kmaw Elder Todd Labrador, on the shore of Kejimkujik Lake. (Photo: Parks Canada/Alicia Brett)
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From behind locked gates, we spy the grey-tarped profile of the 18th-century Dutch-style tall ship at the Hector Heritage Quay in Pictou, Nova Scotia. No masts. It’s in mid-restoration in spring 2022 when we visit. Massive new Douglas fir ribs contrast with grey, rotted oak planks, yet to be replaced. The whole work site and visitor centre won’t open for the season until tomorrow. But still, I can’t believe we’re here. Finally. For as long as I’ve known my husband, Tim, Hector, a 26-metre three-masted brig-style ship, has been part of his family lore. Some call it the Canadian Mayflower. Its harrowing 11-week voyage from Ullapool, Scotland, delivered some 189 souls to the shores of Pictou Harbour on Sept. 15, 1773. A framed copy of the ship’s manifest has hung on our den wall in Caledon, Ont., for more years than I remember. Eighteen of the children listed onboard were buried at sea. When the vessel finally landed, it was too late for the growing season, with none of the promised accommodations, and limited provisions. If not for the Mi’kmaq, those who made it ashore would have perished that first winter, too. |
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| The 10-kilometre Rummel Lake Trail features an incredible backdrop and is a popular route for cross-country skiing, hiking and snowshoeing. |
| It’s a balmy 10 degrees on this winter’s day, the chinook winds turning last week’s powdery trail into a sparkling, crystalline path — not great for snowshoeing, but ideal for strolling in spikes. The snow-topped peaks of the Rockies beckon, encouraging us ever upward. Curious spruce grouse pop out from the shadows and gregarious Canada jays swoop overhead. Tracks beside the trail suggest the proximity of hares, sheep, some sort of cat. These are the glorious Rockies of the Canmore, Kananaskis region, an abundance of snowshoe and ski trails right on the doorstep of Mount Engadine Lodge, a classic six-room mountain getaway (think fireplaces, warm leather chairs and breathtaking views) with a few cabins and luxury yurts nearby. It’s frequented mainly by in-the-know Calgarians, but the rest of Canada deserves to be in on the secret.
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Travel with Canadian Geographic
Featured partner: Banff Trail Riders
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| | | Sky-piercing mountains stretch out across the landscape, their peaks crusted with ice and snow. The air is cool and fresh. And best of all, there’s an almost zen-like quiet out here. This is a typical day on the trail when you join our six-day Halfway Lodge horseback adventure. You’ll pass by the shimmering waters of the Bow River, travel along a historic pack trail and then ride up Allenby Pass, where jagged rock formations line the route. |
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And although you do climb to an elevation of 2,468 metres on this trip, the terrain is gentle for the entire way. And for all the rugged scenery that surrounds you on this trek, the adventure itself is far from ‘roughing it.’ Unwind in rustic luxury at the spacious Sundance Lodge and later at the cozy Halfway Lodge – both are quintessential mountain cabins boasting comfortable beds, a crackling fire and some of the most delicious backcountry cuisine you’ll ever try.
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Nestled in an ancient meteorite crater between the Laurentians and the St. Lawrence, Quebec’s Charlevoix region is a winter-lover’s playground. (Photo: Alexandra Pope/Can Geo)
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In the middle of a half-hearted and historically warm El Niño winter, I took my family to Quebec’s Charlevoix region and found the wonderland we’d been missing — well, that one of us had, anyway.
I grew up skating and skiing and have always had a deep affinity for snow and cold; my husband Jason is more of the “sit in the lodge with a book and a hot toddy” type. Our son, Marcus, is only three, but I’m doing my best to turn him into an all-weather kid. As we drove the steep, winding highway northeast from Quebec City, past picture-perfect habitant farmsteads and pines with their arms full of fresh snow, I figured if any place could kindle a love of winter, it would be this spectacular region nestled in an ancient meteorite crater between the Laurentians and the St. Lawrence River. |
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