There is far too much corporate banter around values and purpose, great companies ‘do’ more than they ‘say’ and they simply get on with it. | | | | Head of State presentation, NYFW: Men's, Dune Studios, July 10, 2017.
(Randy Brooke/Getty Images) | | | | | | “There is far too much corporate banter around values and purpose, great companies ‘do’ more than they ‘say’ and they simply get on with it.”
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| | rantnrave:// NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: MEN'S is all about lowkey sportswear so far. That and enough bomber jackets to outfit whole armies of would-be pilots / street-style stars (kidding). But seriously, someone needs to put together a GIF of every bomber from every label shown over just two days. We're deep into bomber jacket territory here. Has the MA-1 silhouette transcended the trend, entering the realm of standard issue dressing like the t-shirt or the blazer? Or is it just a sure sale? I appreciate GUY TREBAY's take so far. Many of the NYFW:M designers are not established names, but—they are hopeful, they have a desire to address the times in which they live, and they need to start somewhere. Check out emerging labels HEAD OF STATE, TEDDY ONDO ELLA, and FENG CHEN WANG. And head to WWD for coverage of all the presentations and runway shows... I don't know what a struggling industry's answer to total irrelevance is, but a healthy ecosystem of independent designers and publishers is a place to start. THE FASHION LAW has some thoughtful commentary on the strong-arm tactics some companies take in protecting their businesses. Protectionism isn't always as effective as it seems, however—it can negatively affect the wider industry (and a company's own relevance) in the long term. Is there room for all, or have the scales tipped toward the large and consolidated? Independent voices have made incredible contributions to fashion—take these recollections of how THE FACE got started. Also, cue MICKEY BOARDMAN's take on his career and the early days of PAPER MAGAZINE... The LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR HORIZON is revealed as LVMH's foray into the universe of connected devices, aka the internet of things. It's quite a biz dev move, one that a luxury conglomerate can undertake as a bet on the IoT scenario playing out sooner rather than later. Judging from the reaction on TWITTER, Vuitton needs only one endorsement to sell this watch, and it's LUHAN. Or should I say, "LUHAAAAAAAAAAN." Gotta love K-pop fans... Briefs: BURBERRY is among companies committing to clean energy... More great analysis on LANVIN... Something you may have missed: Upcoming exhibition "Italiana. Narrating Italian History Through Fashion, 1971-2001," organized by MARIA LUISA FRISA and STEFANO TONCHI, is on my radar. I highlight the show here because of their work together on the exhibition/book EXCESS, which is a wonderful look at the 1980s. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Trying to lighten a troubled sociopolitical mood through design. | | |
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| Mr Mickey loves Kim Kardashian, Madonna, Kylie, Mia Farrow and here he tells us why. Who broke the internet? No, it wasn't the Russians, it was Mickey Boardman, PAPER magazine and Kim Kardashian's bum. | | |
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| The fashion house is unveiling its first smartwatch, the Tambour Horizon, but it’s not stopping there. | | |
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| Among the many problems facing today's retail market, unsold stock might be one of its biggest handicaps, argues Haley Smith Recer. | | |
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| When designers like Robert Geller and Alexander Wang bring some activism, we wonder: who profits? So we made a progress report of politically active brands. | | |
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| Fashion and media companies are increasingly relying on a handful of legal tactics to keep at-times ugly practices out of the spotlight. Non-disclosure agreements (“NDA”), non-disparagement provisions, and threats of defamation-centric lawsuits, in particular, are proving increasingly commonplace in order for industry giants to keep their creatives quiet. | | |
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| Alexander Fury reflects on the maison of Azzedine Alaïa and finds beaucoup de vêtements, beaucoup de travail, and beaucoup d'amour. | | |
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| If we’re calling fashion exhibitions at museums “blockbusters”, a term coined when Met’s 2011 Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty broke all visitor records at the time, then trailers must be warranted. Consider this to be a bumper trailer for a bumper exhibition. | | |
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| Hua Haifeng spent weeks in detention after undercover investigation revealed abuse of workers at Ganzhou factory that makes shoes for Ivanka Trump’s brand. | | |
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| The credit card company enlists sartorial tastemakers like "Harper's Bazaar" EIC Glenda Bailey and MADE's Jenné Lombardo to help create fashion 'experiences' for members. | | |
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| Publishers increasingly look to Amazon for revenue. | | |
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| Still in recovery from Monsieur Alaïa's breathtaking return to Paris Couture last week. Sophia's horizontal. It was brill. And, whilst it satiated most of our Alaïa-based cravings, we always want more more more. So, in lieu of yet more outbursts of indomitable love, we've instead dug up this one from our archive. | | |
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| Alaska Airlines pulled the offending uniforms -- American has not. | | |
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| The singer’s “image architect” Law Roach talks Vanity Fair. | | |
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| "Our office was damp with flooding. An intern turned up in a purple velvet Jean Paul Gaultier suit and was so disappointed he left after a week." | | |
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| With so many budding talents out to make a name for themselves, the competition for emerging designers is tough. Which makes 2015 RCA Graduate Feng Chen Wang’s fast rise all the more impressive. After showing collections in New York, London and Shanghai and with fashion platforms V-Files, MAN and Fashion East, the designer today returns to the Big Apple for her SS18 show. | | |
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| Thanks in part to social media, which facilitates unprecedented access to designers’ work, the fashion industry is overflowing with copyright violations. Though social platforms also provide a means of shaming copycats, it seems the result is embarrassment at best. Even following the Varsity Brands vs. Star Athletica case, current copyright laws do little to protect designers. | | |
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| The founder of Radimo LA talks the importance of gender-neutral clothes and where she hopes it goes in the future. | | |
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| Interviewing the founder of a grooming brand, now that’s something I would have never thought I would do. | | |
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| Desperate to get shoppers in the door, U.S. department stores have started to discount the one item they had long been able to sell at full price: cosmetics. | | |
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